05 STI BUILD

Remind me again why you didn't want phenolic spacers at least in addition? Aluminum is an incredibly good heat conductor. So right now it'll help carry block heat into the IM, which undoes some good work from the IC. If you add even a thin phenolic spacer it should interrupt some of that heat xfer, right?
The main reason I'm not using phenolic spacers is due to the fact that they raise the fuel injector further away from the intake port of the head in Subarus. The main reason I switched plans from the long runner na intake to the short na runner intake was due to that fact. I'd at least 13-19 mm phenolic spacers on na intake to clear the avcs on the heads.

I do have some 3mm ones but most likely won't be using them since that's bumping up the intake manifold even further reducing hood clearance.

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I just put a preorder in for this pulley and will be our having the dampr attachment when Dom gets it manufactured. I guess I like to support the small business especially since my short block was one of the last ones he built and I pre-ordered his cylinder 4 coolant mod when it first came out.


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The KSTech aluminum spacers came in today. Good news is the Killer B turbo inlet now fits under the intake manifold and now I have to balls up and slot the intakes bolt holes so the manifold will line up to the spacers and tgv housings.
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Finally updated the original build list on post 1 of this thread. I'm sure I'm missing odds and ends though.

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Their port matched to the TGV housings and not the intake manifold. That's just how much meat Subaru leaves on the intake manifold and why companies like grimspeed use to port match intake manifolds to the TGV housings. I'm sure port matching the intake manifold is minimal gains but I'll be doing it since I have the tools and abilities to do so. The sti intake manifold has about the same lip as well.
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Well I spoke to the tuner that's most likely going to tune my car and he said my rebuilt heads upgraded intake springs aren't the best match for the stock sti cams and that I should upgrade the cams to kelford r-199-b cams for a much better power band. Looks like I should have researched more on the valve springs before going with what was suggested for the rebuild. Looks like I'll be learning how to measure valve lash in order to choose the correct cam buckets but on a side note I'm sure the cams will give a nice mid to redline power increase over the stock cams.

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Received my new crank pulley today and am waiting for the dampr that attaches to it to become available. Overall it's a very nicely made product.
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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Oh man, I hate doing the valve buckets. It seems easy enough at first... You get your new cams installed and go to work with the feeler gauge. You say yourself, "Okay this one apparently measures about a millimeter too thin/loose. I'll read the number on the bottom of the bucket and order one that is 1mm thicker, easy enough." Then you get said 1mm thicker bucket, put it in and now it's waaaay too tight. What tf gives, you wonder.

Then you realize that the original size (by the number printed on the bottom) was exactly what you needed, except that now , it's 1mm too thin due to the friction wear of XX,XXX miles of operation. So then you have to go back and re-order more and more and more buckets until you get it right. It's maddening.

I wish I had known about this beforehand, because I would have borrowed a calibrated micrometer (caliper style) from work and measured the thickness of the bucket and compared it to the stated thickness.

I hope you learn from my mistakes before experiencing them yourself. DM me if you want more information and I'll send you my cell number.
 
Oh man, I hate doing the valve buckets. It seems easy enough at first... You get your new cams installed and go to work with the feeler gauge. You say yourself, "Okay this one apparently measures about a millimeter too thin/loose. I'll read the number on the bottom of the bucket and order one that is 1mm thicker, easy enough." Then you get said 1mm thicker bucket, put it in and now it's waaaay too tight. What tf gives, you wonder.

Then you realize that the original size (by the number printed on the bottom) was exactly what you needed, except that now , it's 1mm too thin due to the friction wear of XX,XXX miles of operation. So then you have to go back and re-order more and more and more buckets until you get it right. It's maddening.

I wish I had known about this beforehand, because I would have borrowed a calibrated micrometer (caliper style) from work and measured the thickness of the bucket and compared it to the stated thickness.

I hope you learn from my mistakes before experiencing them yourself. DM me if you want more information and I'll send you my cell number.
Yes I'm not looking forward to it and thanks for your feedback. On a good note all my current cam buckets are brand new since they were all replaced when I sent them off. I'm just hoping I don't have to replace too many cam buckets and that I'm able to swap some around in order to minimize my cam bucket costs.

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Oh man, I hate doing the valve buckets. It seems easy enough at first... You get your new cams installed and go to work with the feeler gauge. You say yourself, "Okay this one apparently measures about a millimeter too thin/loose. I'll read the number on the bottom of the bucket and order one that is 1mm thicker, easy enough." Then you get said 1mm thicker bucket, put it in and now it's waaaay too tight. What tf gives, you wonder.

Then you realize that the original size (by the number printed on the bottom) was exactly what you needed, except that now , it's 1mm too thin due to the friction wear of XX,XXX miles of operation. So then you have to go back and re-order more and more and more buckets until you get it right. It's maddening.

I wish I had known about this beforehand, because I would have borrowed a calibrated micrometer (caliper style) from work and measured the thickness of the bucket and compared it to the stated thickness.

I hope you learn from my mistakes before experiencing them yourself. DM me if you want more information and I'll send you my cell number.
Now I'm trying to justify sending my cams off to have a love treatment done and the intake avcs machined so it supplies oil to the top of the valve train thru the avcs oil supply. Getadomtune offers it and it's probably another $350-500 in overall cost after shipping. In theory it sounds like a great idea but I think it may be slight overkill but damn I want to do it.

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