I'm assuming the rotors and pads being wet cause slippage until the friction heat dries them out. Idk...best I can come up with. :lol:
Grinder's OBP
- Thread starter Grinder34
- Start date
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
Nope. Read this, it explains it.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/pad-knockback
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/pad-knockback
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Its been a while since i posted.
I removed my Zzyzx coilovers for the winter. I still havent gotten an alignment, but I dont care too much about my blizzaks, and im not doing any performance driving. If we ever got snow, and i could find a parking lot, i'd do some drifting, but i dont really need an alignment to get the car sidways on the snow! The ride is SO MUCH BETTER now, especially with the winter potholes piling up. But i hear a lot more noise from my suspension now, so im not sure if i just need to regrease the swaybars, or if my OEM struts have the dreaded clunk. Part of the whole reason i took the suspension off was to figure out my spring rate, potentially source some softer springs, and fix some nagging issues like seized set-screws on the height adjustment. I also think its probably time to get them rebuilt, but i really have no idea how to tell. So, how do i know if I need my coilovers rebuilt? I'll probably continue to be lazy and keep the OEM struts since i wont be doing any track days (more on that below) any time soon. The car definitely corners far worse (suspension, alignment AND tires) but i can live with that on my boring daily commute for now.
I just took out the aftermarket windshield wiper bottle. It was a POS. The plastic bottle and mounting bracket would flex too much, and the bottle would pop out of the bracket with even a light tug (think about forces around a track!). Its really a major design flaw, IMO. Anyways, out with the new, in with the old.
At the same time, i tried to install the ROO ducts and ran into a few problems. First, my $25 cordless drill is a POS and doesnt drill through sheet metal worth a damn. But i could still align things, and my somewhat integrated-looking duct entrance wont clear the OEM washer reservoir. When it gets warmer, i'll head back to home depot racing and look for different gutter products to try to turn a (roughly) 2x5" hole into a 3" round hole. In the mean time I dont need big brake cooling so theres no hurry.
I also am paranoid about blowing my engine, especially at a track day. Im a bit of a hypochondriac about my car, so I'm convinced (with no really good reason) that my engine is about to blow. I would continue tuning with Holy to remedy that, but i have a few problems. Mainly: My LC-1 and my netbook are not really on speaking terms. But probably more importantly, I would lose my job if i got a speeding ticket doing a 4th gear pull.
So in a nutshell, remaining tasks:
Install new wideband O2 sensor
Figure out LC-1-Netbook issues
Tune
Install brake ducts
Figure out spring situtation
Have coilovers rebuilt?
Regrease sways
Intall EL header (sitting in my garage for 3(?) years now)
Tune again if i do the above.
Do an alignment
install wideband gauge that i have in a box
I removed my Zzyzx coilovers for the winter. I still havent gotten an alignment, but I dont care too much about my blizzaks, and im not doing any performance driving. If we ever got snow, and i could find a parking lot, i'd do some drifting, but i dont really need an alignment to get the car sidways on the snow! The ride is SO MUCH BETTER now, especially with the winter potholes piling up. But i hear a lot more noise from my suspension now, so im not sure if i just need to regrease the swaybars, or if my OEM struts have the dreaded clunk. Part of the whole reason i took the suspension off was to figure out my spring rate, potentially source some softer springs, and fix some nagging issues like seized set-screws on the height adjustment. I also think its probably time to get them rebuilt, but i really have no idea how to tell. So, how do i know if I need my coilovers rebuilt? I'll probably continue to be lazy and keep the OEM struts since i wont be doing any track days (more on that below) any time soon. The car definitely corners far worse (suspension, alignment AND tires) but i can live with that on my boring daily commute for now.
I just took out the aftermarket windshield wiper bottle. It was a POS. The plastic bottle and mounting bracket would flex too much, and the bottle would pop out of the bracket with even a light tug (think about forces around a track!). Its really a major design flaw, IMO. Anyways, out with the new, in with the old.
At the same time, i tried to install the ROO ducts and ran into a few problems. First, my $25 cordless drill is a POS and doesnt drill through sheet metal worth a damn. But i could still align things, and my somewhat integrated-looking duct entrance wont clear the OEM washer reservoir. When it gets warmer, i'll head back to home depot racing and look for different gutter products to try to turn a (roughly) 2x5" hole into a 3" round hole. In the mean time I dont need big brake cooling so theres no hurry.
I also am paranoid about blowing my engine, especially at a track day. Im a bit of a hypochondriac about my car, so I'm convinced (with no really good reason) that my engine is about to blow. I would continue tuning with Holy to remedy that, but i have a few problems. Mainly: My LC-1 and my netbook are not really on speaking terms. But probably more importantly, I would lose my job if i got a speeding ticket doing a 4th gear pull.
So in a nutshell, remaining tasks:
Install new wideband O2 sensor
Figure out LC-1-Netbook issues
Tune
Install brake ducts
Figure out spring situtation
Have coilovers rebuilt?
Regrease sways
Intall EL header (sitting in my garage for 3(?) years now)
Tune again if i do the above.
Do an alignment
install wideband gauge that i have in a box
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
I'd say when the coils start to get noisy, clunky I guess? When the ride degrades, overly harsh or bouncy? Any marked difference from how they used to be. Aside from obvious signs like leaking fluid.
Sounds like you may be up for just a change? Maybe your tastes are changing and it's time to explore something different. I'm trying to read between your lines here, lol.
Maybe try a revalve from Feal with a nice spring to match your struts? That is what I was really contemplating until I found out that they were $785 for the GR. (cause they used a basic coilover in the rear)
Sounds like you may be up for just a change? Maybe your tastes are changing and it's time to explore something different. I'm trying to read between your lines here, lol.
Maybe try a revalve from Feal with a nice spring to match your struts? That is what I was really contemplating until I found out that they were $785 for the GR. (cause they used a basic coilover in the rear)
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Coils will have to be either apexi n1 evx or bcbr's. But id like to get feedback on others as well.
Huge diff on handling i hope?
I like to take hard turns!
STANCE!!!
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
No stance for me! :angry:
I almost broke my stock suspension going to you. New york has the worst roads ive ever seen! And the cities surrounding mine are pretty damn bad!!!
:rofl:
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Well, I've realized that anything that'll make me happy on a track wont make me happy on shitty DC roads. If DC could properly pave a road or patch a pothole, I'd be SOOO happy. But even with my overly-stiff-for-the-street setup, its still too soft for the track. Sure, I can play with the damping, but when i soften it up, i just get lots of jarring bouncing on the streets (underdamped) and the car takes too long to setup into the corner at the track (overdamped). You really can't have it both ways.
That being said:
Coils are amazing. I dont know how familiar you are with the Zzyzx offering. They were a one-off batch by a single machinst guy for evos and STIs. I think they're a super-high quality product, and are based on the Koni 6811 insert. They came with whiteline max-c front camber plates and cusco rears. I think i paid $1700 shipped for them, but they were with unknown mileage. Since then, i've put probably 35k+ miles on them, and think that might be pushing it. Maybe i should just rebuild them now. I never figured out the spring rates, since the springs are Hypercoils, the spring rate is printed on the perch. I'll be really curious about how much of a wuss/madman i've been for the past few years once i figure out what they are!
But after reading countless reviews of coilovers, I think paying for a quality product is important. Everything i've read about the Zzyzx product leads me to believe that they were exceptionally well executed, and that they're no longer made because the guy couldnt make money selling them at the price he did--and it took way too much effort for him! *IF* i were in the market again, i'd seriously learn to read and scrutinize shock dynos and basically thow out every subjective review and go based on the numbers.
But yes, coilovers totally tranform the car. Its amazing how much you can adjust the handling by twisting a knob or two. At several track days, I basically managed to make the car amazingly neutral, just by...fiddling. I didnt even have to bother to unbolt a swaybar, just twist a knob.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ive read, heard, been told countless times that coils is something serious and should not go cheap on. That being said.... 35k miles???? And rebuilding????
Do they not hold up that long?
Are you a maniac that abuses turns? :lol:
Do you have a lot of shitty roads in your area?
Or is it just me? 35k miles seems kinda low to have to rebuild... Im not expecting 100k miles but.... Around 60-70k at least. They might be set up differently and the impact they reveive versus oem is quite different but still. Shit.
How much will it cost you to rebuild them?
Do they not hold up that long?
Are you a maniac that abuses turns? :lol:
Do you have a lot of shitty roads in your area?
Or is it just me? 35k miles seems kinda low to have to rebuild... Im not expecting 100k miles but.... Around 60-70k at least. They might be set up differently and the impact they reveive versus oem is quite different but still. Shit.
How much will it cost you to rebuild them?
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Well, i've had them for 35k, the previous owner was another 20k i think?
And yes, the roads are extremely shitty in my area (its like they're trying to recreate that good old cobblestone feel with modern day construction). And yes, i thrash the shit out of my car at the track.
And yes, the roads are extremely shitty in my area (its like they're trying to recreate that good old cobblestone feel with modern day construction). And yes, i thrash the shit out of my car at the track.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ah ok so they do last quite a bit then. Even with all that abuse. Much more reasonable now! :lol:
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Another similar sense of accomplishment is experienced when you get rwd going around in a huge donut through feathering the throttle. Definitely took longer than expected but tires do play a key role.
What tires do you have one currently?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
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