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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
For sure. If everything is stock, you'll want the Stage I 93 Octane OTS MAP.
 

Alin

On a quest of STi erudition!
I just ordered the cobb downpipe for my car. I'll get it on when it comes in. Hope everyone is doing good.
When the downpipe arrives and you install it, also revert back to the stock intake at that time. Then, you can flash the 93 octane Stage 2 map.

Also, I don't know if you're aware regarding the proper procedure once you reset/reflash the ECU. Whenever your ECU loses connection to the battery and resets, or if you reflash a new map with the AP, you'll have to allow it time to learn the new partakers, or relearn the old ones. Assuming your car is warmed up already after a reset/reflash:

1) Turn the car on and let it idle for ~5 minutes. DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELTERATOR PEDAL.
2) Begin to drive gently (like a grandma) and do NOT enter boost or exceed ~4,000 RPM for ~15-20 minutes.
3) You can begin driving a bit more aggressively and boosting a couple of PSI for another ~15 minutes.
4) After that, you can drive normally. Although, don't WOT right away. Rather, ease into it with more and more PSI gradually.

I'm more anal when it comes to this procedure than most.


Later on, when you go get your protune completed, you can swap the AEM intake back on to have it factored in. In reality, the stock intake is the best for most applications, honestly. The figure that gets thrown around is ~400 WHP before you need a larger diameter intake to allow more air in. The stock intake also has the protective box to reduce hotter temperatures. If you were to compare the stock intake to the AEM, you'd more than likely make less power due to heat soak. The only "gain," if you were to call it that, is a more audible turbo spool. In my opinion, you should leave the stock intake on, and resell the AEM one.
 
When the downpipe arrives and you install it, also revert back to the stock intake at that time. Then, you can flash the 93 octane Stage 2 map.

Also, I don't know if you're aware regarding the proper procedure once you reset/reflash the ECU. Whenever your ECU loses connection to the battery and resets, or if you reflash a new map with the AP, you'll have to allow it time to learn the new partakers, or relearn the old ones. Assuming your car is warmed up already after a reset/reflash:

1) Turn the car on and let it idle for ~5 minutes. DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELTERATOR PEDAL.
2) Begin to drive gently (like a grandma) and do NOT enter boost or exceed ~4,000 RPM for ~15-20 minutes.
3) You can begin driving a bit more aggressively and boosting a couple of PSI for another ~15 minutes.
4) After that, you can drive normally. Although, don't WOT right away. Rather, ease into it with more and more PSI gradually.

I'm more anal when it comes to this procedure than most.


Later on, when you go get your protune completed, you can swap the AEM intake back on to have it factored in. In reality, the stock intake is the best for most applications, honestly. The figure that gets thrown around is ~400 WHP before you need a larger diameter intake to allow more air in. The stock intake also has the protective box to reduce hotter temperatures. If you were to compare the stock intake to the AEM, you'd more than likely make less power due to heat soak. The only "gain," if you were to call it that, is a more audible turbo spool. In my opinion, you should leave the stock intake on, and resell the AEM one.
This is one article that had a lot of influence in my choice of intakes.

 

Alin

On a quest of STi erudition!
This is one article that had a lot of influence in my choice of intakes.

Interesting. Then, I would suggest you look into a hydro shield for the intake if that's where the location of the air filter will be.
 

Alin

On a quest of STi erudition!
Glad you have your car dialed in now! Has everything been functioning flawlessly since? Have there been any hiccups? How would you describe the sensation of power comparing the car before it was tuned to now after it's tuned?
 
Glad you have your car dialed in now! Has everything been functioning flawlessly since? Have there been any hiccups? How would you describe the sensation of power comparing the car before it was tuned to now after it's tuned?
Everything is running great now. I would say for me I've noticed the power really pushes you back in the seat now. I do have a drivers window switch issue. I think the switch itself is going out. I hope lol.
 
My drivers window just needed to be reprogrammed. I just installed the RCE yellow springs and whiteline sway bars with endlinks. Wasnt to bad. After driving the car a bit more now the HP and torque really show through. Lower rpms are much smoother. Power is better in lower rpms also. All of the mods I've done, the downpipe has by far been the hardest. Thanks for all of your alls help.🍻
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Final pull was 310 HP and 352 ft lbs torque.😳😳
Those are pretty good numbers! You know what felt to me like a reeeeaal improvement at that power level was a 1-piece carbon fiber driveshaft. They can be a little expensive, but they do seem to go on sale periodically. 5-7k rpms in first and second just screamed past and acceleration was improved at the low end as well.
 
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