3 port ebcs not sure what brand? Boosting issue?

So I have my setup exactly like this and I'm having boost hesitation,
c90302762daf155be4d661c2ecaa0a0e.jpg
I switched lines 1 and 3 and now it boosts amazing but now I have to watch because it can over boost. So do u think I have a bad ebcs? I'm not sure if that's the issue or not. But there's no hesitations anymore it just keeps building boost and over-boosts but I let off the throttle before anything happens lol. I'm also on my Cobb ap watching boost and my gauge, which is in bar not psi. On Cobb ap I hit 17.4 no problem and that was at 5500rpm! :) so I might need to replace the ebcs? Let me know what you guys think


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
the ebcs I have was given to me from performance auto solutions, not sure what brand it is, the fitting say eaton on them, there is no brand on the solenoid itself. It is a 3 port just like any other, and is marked ports 1, 2, and 3


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Is there any way possible to get a log with it surging? Did you do the standard "Check it for leaks" routine? Can you take a picture of the solenoid?

You will definitely want to put the hoses back. Hooking the turbo hose to port one won't bleed pressure to the waste gate so it will over boost.
 
Okay I'll switch the hoses back to the original diagram, in the first post. That is how they were always ran. What parameters will I log Holy? Thanks for your help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have no leaks I just fixed the inlet remember? I had to take w
The whole manifold off, there are no leaks anywhere. I do have a post turbo leak but that wouldn't cause the boost to hesitate.

Do you think it's possible, this is long shot. My up pipe is a ceramic coated GS with EWG, the flex portion was getting dropped on by oil for a few months, this could of caused a crack inside the flex portion? When it heats up and oil is burning on it, can also deteriorate the material? It happened to me before and I think I'll need to be smoke tested and pressure tested. I called innovative and hopefully I can go in very soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I'm thinking mostly boost parameters. If your AP can't log this many parameter you might need to log with AccessTuner

• Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) (A/F Sens 1 Ratio)
• Absolute Pressure (Man Abs Press)
• Relative Pressure (Boost)
• Barometric Pressure
• Boost Target
• Calculated Load
• Engine Speed (RPM)
• Gear Position
• TD Integral
• TD Proportional
• Throttle Position
• Turbo Dynamics (TD Boost Error)
Waste Gate Duty Cycle
• Feedback knock correction
• MAF Voltage
 
Okay I'll try and get this done today. Thanks Holy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I have no leaks I just fixed the inlet remember? I had to take w
The whole manifold off, there are no leaks anywhere. I do have a post turbo leak but that wouldn't cause the boost to hesitate.

Do you think it's possible, this is long shot. My up pipe is a ceramic coated GS with EWG, the flex portion was getting dropped on by oil for a few months, this could of caused a crack inside the flex portion? When it heats up and oil is burning on it, can also deteriorate the material? It happened to me before and I think I'll need to be smoke tested and pressure tested. I called innovative and hopefully I can go in very soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well a leak post turbo can easily cause the surging. Remember if the ECU is not seeing the amount of boost it is expecting, then it will strive to reach it and turbo dynamics can make a mess of things when it over compensates.

A leak in the up-pipe can definitely cause that.
 
Hmm so even a post turbo (in the mid pipe) can cause this?

I Did my oil feed line/AVCS line and I fixed that so no more oil leaking on my up pipe, I also changed my spark plugs.

When the battery was disconnected and I was finished with all of that (about 2 hrs later) I connected it back up and started and let it idle until fully warmed up, didn't hit the gas or anything, it purred even better than before, took it down a long street that was straight and opened WOT and it boosted perfect the first time, slowed down, then tried again after going around the block to run on the same street and, it hesitated. So since it learned the first pull, it won't do it again because it's pulling turbo dynamics? a couple things I was monitoring was AFR which was 14.6 in cruise and idle, and WOT was 11.2, and just coolant temp, which was ranging from cruising 60mph (180F) and sitting at idle for over 10 mins, highest it would go is 207 and the fans would bring it down to 192-190, and I don't kno what temp the fans kicked on though...maybe they did kick on late, at 207? Which isn't normal I don't think... The coolant temp sensor has to do with AFR under boost correct? A faulty one can cause this issue right? I'm not sure that's why I'm asking. I found one case off IWSTI that one person had this issue with their coolant temp sensor and they couldn't boost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Hmm so even a post turbo (in the mid pipe) can cause this?

I Did my oil feed line/AVCS line and I fixed that so no more oil leaking on my up pipe, I also changed my spark plugs.

When the battery was disconnected and I was finished with all of that (about 2 hrs later) I connected it back up and started and let it idle until fully warmed up, didn't hit the gas or anything, it purred even better than before, took it down a long street that was straight and opened WOT and it boosted perfect the first time, slowed down, then tried again after going around the block to run on the same street and, it hesitated. So since it learned the first pull, it won't do it again because it's pulling turbo dynamics? a couple things I was monitoring was AFR which was 14.6 in cruise and idle, and WOT was 11.2, and just coolant temp, which was ranging from cruising 60mph (180F) and sitting at idle for over 10 mins, highest it would go is 207 and the fans would bring it down to 192-190, and I don't kno what temp the fans kicked on though...maybe they did kick on late, at 207? Which isn't normal I don't think... The coolant temp sensor has to do with AFR under boost correct? A faulty one can cause this issue right? I'm not sure that's why I'm asking. I found one case off IWSTI that one person had this issue with their coolant temp sensor and they couldn't boost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh no... When you said post turbo I thought after the turbo in the intake tract. A leak in the exhaust after the turbine will not cause this. Sorry for the confusion.

I'm not sure if this is related to the coolant sensor. There are compensations but only when the engine gets hotter than 212. It sounds like the fans are coming on at the right temperature. Mine are set to come on at a lower temp than stock but I remember in my 06, they came on at 212.
 
Last edited:
Hmm okay I'll take this in mind, I just switched the hoses back to original spots like the diagram. Now its boosting fine. When I switched the hoses and went for a drive I got a lot of smoke, maybe the vac lines and the inside of the solenoid was dirty? It maybe cleaned them out and pushed out any clogged sludge? I did have the inlet off for a bit driving and oil could of clogged these lines, the smoke is gone and like I said their hooked up to original diagram, now it's hitting full boost! I also re flashed the ECU with the high boost map


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I will still do a log of those parameters you told me to log, [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so a day or two of full boost and back to hesitation, could the electronic boost control solenoid be going bad? Because I don't have any issues when I swap the lines around, no1 and no2 lines, or just run EWG spring pressure? That's no2 line hooked up from the EWG to the turbo compressor fitting/line. There is no restrictor pill in any line (that I know of) because this setup is full race, and far from stock. How can I test the solenoid to see if it opens or not? Could I clean it with anything?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BTW [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] I would of logged as well but it's a super rainy day today here in Buffalo. Not good conditions for now,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I've seen many EBCS's go bad... you can use any electrical contact cleaner and then follow up with WD40 to lube it. See what that does.

No problem with the log... Do it when you can, no rush.
 
Okay sounds good, I actually tried testing the solenoid, by connecting the green connectors under the dash to put it in "test mode" and all the fans, pump, and other sensors were clicking, but when I was listening and holding the ebcs, I did not feel or hear any click or any sort or noise what so ever, the solenoid was dead. It seems to be a knock off brand, (Eaton) and it was given to me by PAS. I might need to find someone local to swap out theirs and go from there. Also the log will be soon, I'm hoping!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did some research and people who have working electronic boost controllers have clicking noises when they are giving throttle and such, mine is not making any noise whatsoever I'm almost positive that my ebcs is dead!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Mine does make a noise just as I start giving it throttle. That is when I have it start to activate.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Okay yeah mine isn't clicking at all!!! Lol it should even when launch control is active. I have mine set to 4K, and holding the throttle with the clutch, someone else doing it for me, it does not click


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edit: I started the car normally and gave it throttle and the ebcs is clicking rapidly?? Should it just click once to open and click again to close? [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] Or should it be clicking like "click, click, click, click, click, click, click" like super super fast when I give the throttle some rpm, idk how much rpm; I was pulling the cable on the throttle body as I was holding the ebcs.
 
I'm thinking mostly boost parameters. If your AP can't log this many parameter you might need to log with AccessTuner

? Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) (A/F Sens 1 Ratio)
? Absolute Pressure (Man Abs Press)
? Relative Pressure (Boost)
? Barometric Pressure
? Boost Target
? Calculated Load
? Engine Speed (RPM)
? Gear Position
? TD Integral
? TD Proportional
? Throttle Position
? Turbo Dynamics (TD Boost Error)
? Waste Gate Duty Cycle
? Feedback knock correction
? MAF Voltage
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] what is TD integral and TD proportional on the accessport? Mine has TD boost error, TD burst, and TD Continuous


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top