oil consumption

jakedoza said:

I haven't talked to them yet.. It has been almost a year, I'm not sure what they will say.

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Yikes! What warranty did they give you?

don't think there was one. It wasn't their parts, but they were new from AMS performance.

while removing the rattling heat shield on my up pipe I noticed that the clamp on the oil return line from the turbo had slipped off. There was quite a bit of oil under there, but I have thought nothing of it since the oil line to the turbo burst a few weeks ago leaving oil everywhere under the car. We will see if this solves anything...

Hopefully you're on the right track now. Good luck. Let us know if you find out anything more.

Based on all the information in this thread, I feel you might still have ring issues causing blow by. Earlier you suggested you have oil in the throttle body and intercooler... That, plus the low compression on one side of the motor suggest excessive blow by from rings.

For the time being you may consider getting a good oil catch can like the Morroso or something along those lines or maybe an AOS. The key is to keep the oil out of the intake system all together.

We can start the tuning process to at least make your car safer to drive around on but what ever tune we derive, will not be for power sake. The best we can do is make things last for as long as possible and hopefully stop the motor from degrading further.

May I suggest doing an oil change if you have not done so already? I might recommend 10W40 shell rotella conventional oil for this particular scenario.

Hey I'm hopping on here because I use shell rotella t6, and I have a more than stock motor with Manley Pistons. Shell rotella t6 comes in 1 gallon jugs, 1 U.S. gal. Is 4qts. So you'll need to buy another 1qt for an oil change. 5qt total, I used it all! Not overfilled and at the max line on dipstick. In our cars they can be overfilled a whole 1qt, for a purpose as a day at the track, just change your oil afterwards, so 6qt for track days and 5qt for 3k intervals. Simple right? I never have had an issue with my new block, it's stout and strong after a lot of 21psi full WOT pulls, of 26k miles!! I abuse this car more than a fat kid abuses their cupcakes.? As for the consumption on such a low mile new build, you shoulda beat on her. That's the only way to seat the rings, everyone thinks it's the wrong break in process, but I lived it, I did it, after your 100th mile, change the oil and go give it boost, and more boost, it's gotta learn its new life cycle...you can't baby a new motor, especially if it's not stock internals, the whole system needs to learn its life cycle. Lots of abuse and boost!!!! What internals were used in the short block? Ask the engine builder what ring gap they used, and then call the place you got your internal motor parts, I'm assuming you got Pistons, and whatever else you got. And then ask them what they recommend for ring gap, and compare...that is how I found out if people are lying. Good luck


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[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] but everyone has oil in their top mounts and front mounts, it's just how much that they have...if your taking off your top mount or front mount intercooler and its dripping out immeasurably and immediately, then you have a problem, but oil "stained" to the walls of the silicone hoses, and some residue on the inside of the intercooler on a built motor, that's completely normal? If it's dripping out, then you have problems. Clean the intercooler with gasoline and shake the intercooler, do it until it's coming out clear, then rinse with water and let it sit outside in the sun to dry completely before re-installing. I recommend the version 2 Crawford AOS, you never need to empty it like your catch can setup, it's maintenance free!! Best setup out there. A catch can is used to measure your oil consumption, not fix it. The Crawford AOS V2 recirculates the oil back into the motor.


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