Notice the color difference between the initial, super rust nastiness and now. This rust neutralizer is putting in work. I sanded it down a bit before painting it on.
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Notice the color difference between the initial, super rust nastiness and now. This rust neutralizer is putting in work. I sanded it down a bit before painting it on.
And some heat may help.
For the big drain plug I wasn't under the car with the long pole?
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?
Me neither, I showed the car that I am master.
I thought about that. I may have to just heat it up with a torch. I was somewhat afraid it'll just make the bolt softer and I'll completely round it off. At this point though, it doesn't seem to want to budge, so that's probably what I'll do.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Try not to heat the plug itself but the surrounding case material.
The surrounding case metal is the lower transmission oil pan. Obviously I'm not going to heat it up red hot or anything, but is that a smart thing to heat? 
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
You can heat it upward of 400*. The oil is not the real problem... the seal is. If I am not mistaken, it is sealed with silicone, so it will handle that much for a limited amount of time.
You could try removing the pan and then remove the plug on a bench or something
You could try removing the pan and then remove the plug on a bench or something
I'm going to remove the pan if I can't get the drain plug bolt to loosen up. It shouldn't be too difficult besides being insanely messy.
Which Permatex product are you suggesting? They make shit tons of stuff.
Gasket Maker, I assume?
At work we use grey to mate pans and transfer cases, I'd go with grey, it's really close to the same stuff, when my bell housing for the front diff was put on the rear half they used black, no leaks, it all works great if you make the surfaces shiny again and bead it evenly, and use your finger to spread evenly. Then push together and bolt that sucker in. In wont go anywhere. Also the grey is safe for transmissions I believe
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks guys!
Do you guys think and impact driver would help? Maybe the hammering action will bust it loose.
I'm going to try the torch tonight after work. I was pretty busy the last couple of nights with cleaning the gutters, repairing some masonry on the chimney, trimming tree limbs and of course...homework. Lots of outdoor maintenance to complete before winter.
No matter how careful I am, if I have to remove the whole pan, it's going to me one hell of a big mess. I sure am glad we paint-epoxied the garage floor this summer. That should make it easier to clean up....not only the tranny oil but also the puke. I don't know what it is, but tranny oil makes me yak every time. It just reeks sooo damn bad.
I'm going to try the torch tonight after work. I was pretty busy the last couple of nights with cleaning the gutters, repairing some masonry on the chimney, trimming tree limbs and of course...homework. Lots of outdoor maintenance to complete before winter.
No matter how careful I am, if I have to remove the whole pan, it's going to me one hell of a big mess. I sure am glad we paint-epoxied the garage floor this summer. That should make it easier to clean up....not only the tranny oil but also the puke. I don't know what it is, but tranny oil makes me yak every time. It just reeks sooo damn bad.
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:shock: Okay okay! I won't use an impact driver. :lol:
We would have to ban you! :rambo:
I can't decide if I want to take a couple hours off and go home early today. I just keep thinking about busting that drain plug bolt loose and getting this shit wrapped up.
Decisions, decisions...
Decisions, decisions...
When I get these plugs out, I am DEFINITELY using a dab of anti-seize before putting them back in.
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