Help! I got my first error code from my car (P0304)

sniperkill

New member
So Im new to this site and the Subaru turbo world. But I do know my way around a car. So lets start with my car, then the mods I got, then the stupid thing I was doing to throw my code P0304.

I have a 2014 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. The day after I bought my car I went to this High Performance import custom car place called ?AndrewTech? its located in Germantown, Maryland. This isn?t a review of that place so lemme move on. My mods are as follows:

(1). Cobb Accessport Tuner v3
(2). Cobb OTA Stage 2+ SF 93 v334 Boost Select map
(3). A TurboXS catless downpipe
(4). A TurboXS catback exhaust with quad tip blue color
(5). A Cobb SF CAI

Now today I was kinda racing this Audi something with a 2.0 turbocharged engine and he thought his stuff was fast so I took it upon myself to get a good laugh out of it, lol.. So off we went and he quickly got very very far BEHIND me. But I wasn?t watching my RPM gauge and other guages very closely like I usually do and I looked down after the race was over and my check engine light was flashing along with my airbag light (I think). But a minute or two went by and the check engine light was off. My car was running finebut I did notice that just before my check engine light came on I heard a poof (it sounded like it came from my exhaust). So I looked at my Accesstuner and seen my car threw a code so here I am. I think it MIGHT have over boosted, or I had some boost creep. But not sure. My question is with my setup, I?ve read on forums that cuz of my catless downpipe that I would have problems with boost creep. So how do I get rid of this boost creep?

I have another question too. On my Accesstuner, when I?m monitoring the ?fine knock learn? and ?feedback knock? and ?TD boost error?, what are reasonable guidelines for each of them like 0.00/0.00 to 0.00/0.00 for fine knock learn and so on? Cuz On my ?fine knock learn? reading when I was driving it showed like 2.10/0.00 for ?fine knock learn? is that bad? And a lot of times when I?m driving the ?feedback knock? part on my Accesstuner says 1.05/0.00 a lot. Is that a bad reading for that?


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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
First of all, welcome to IGOTASTI!! You're going to absolutely love it here!! Post some pictures of the ride!

A quick search shows that P0304 is a cylinder 4 misfire.

Based on the mods you've mentioned, I'm ASSUMING your car is currently flashed to the Cobb Stage 2 v93 oct map. It is true that these cars CAN overboost/boost creep with a catless downpipe. Also, the Cobb OTS maps run rich to reduce knock. If you weren't looking at the RPM, then it's possible you bounced off the rev limiter. When the CEL comes on or flashes, so does the cruise control light. It's like a built in safety feature so you don't use cruise control to overload the engine when the CEL is on.

Now, did your CEL stay on and you cleared it, or did it just turn off by itself and was stored in the AP? Also, how did the car run after the race during normal driving up to this point?

Someone more experienced can relay the information regarding knock, but based on what you've described, it's nothing to worry about. If things bang around under the engine bay, the knock sensor could pick it up. However, if you ever get knock during heavy acceleration or WOT, then that's a big red flag.


And one more note from me: don't race people on the streets. Too many uncontrollable variables, especially in the winter and in Maryland. Be mature and safe. It only takes a slight misjudgment or error for things to go bad very fast. :tup:
 

sniperkill

New member
First of all, welcome to IGOTASTI!! You're going to absolutely love it here!! Post some pictures of the ride!

A quick search shows that P0304 is a cylinder 4 misfire.

Based on the mods you've mentioned, I'm ASSUMING your car is currently flashed to the Cobb Stage 2 v93 oct map. It is true that these cars CAN overboost/boost creep with a catless downpipe. Also, the Cobb OTS maps run rich to reduce knock. If you weren't looking at the RPM, then it's possible you bounced off the rev limiter. When the CEL comes on or flashes, so does the cruise control light. It's like a built in safety feature so you don't use cruise control to overload the engine when the CEL is on.

I?m sorry dude. Yes, my car is flashed with the Cobb OTA Stage 2+ v93 oct map.



Now, did your CEL stay on and you cleared it, or did it just turn off by itself and was stored in the AP? Also, how did the car run after the race during normal driving up to this point?


My car cleared the CEL itself. And yes, my ap stored it. My car has overboosted in the past like 2 times. And those 2 times I had to clear the CEL via the Accessport. But this time it cleared itself and my car ran perfect before and after this happened. Even at the other 2 times my car overboosted my car still ran perfect after it happened. Also at the other 2 overboosts, I was in 6th gear and I was at a little over 3000rpm?s and I had my throttle almost all the way open but not quite and it overboosted on me 2 times like that. Now I make sure I?m at least at 4000rpm?s before I punch it in 6th gear, lol. But today I think I was either in 6th gear when it happened or I was in 5th gear. I don?t remember.


Someone more experienced can relay the information regarding knock, but based on what you've described, it's nothing to worry about. If things bang around under the engine bay, the knock sensor could pick it up. However, if you ever get knock during heavy acceleration or WOT, then that's a big red flag.

No, I?ve never gotten any kinda knocks at WOT or at heavy acceleration.


And one more note from me: don't race people on the streets. Too many uncontrollable variables, especially in the winter and in Maryland. Be mature and safe. It only takes a slight misjudgment or error for things to go bad very fast. :tup:

(Thunbs up)^^^ Right you are my friend. I lost my son when he was just 19 due to the driver of the car he was in decided to try and race someone and wrapped that little white car up like a little matchbox around a couple tree?s. In MD. I?ve been going a little off the deep end the past few years trying to deal with it. But anyways....thanks for your help.

I?m really wondering how do I go about keeping this from happening again? Maybe get a high flow catted downpipe? And maybe a 3 port boost control thingy? I?m still learning all the names, lmfao....



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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
If you don't want boost creep to happen at all, you'd have to get a catted downpipe. However, this isn't 100% guaranteed to not overboost. There are other variables that come into play as well, such as cold weather and at what RPM you go WOT. I would personally suggest you leave the car how it is and just don't go WOT in the winter. You really shouldn't need any more than 50% throttle, and that would be during an on ramp merging on the highway.

When I first got my car almost 9 years ago, I was extremely inexperienced and ran into many, many issues in the first couple of years as well because I didn't research. The best advice you can ever get is to learn from OTHERS' mistakes and know what to avoid.

I don't know if the CEL flashes if you hit the rev limiter for certain, but I do know it'll flash if you overboost. If the car drives fine right now, just don't hammer on the pedal.

I also forgot to ask earlier. In what gear and at what RPM did you floor the car?
 

sniperkill

New member
If you don't want boost creep to happen at all, you'd have to get a catted downpipe. However, this isn't 100% guaranteed to not overboost. There are other variables that come into play as well, such as cold weather and at what RPM you go WOT. I would personally suggest you leave the car how it is and just don't go WOT in the winter. You really shouldn't need any more than 50% throttle, and that would be during an on ramp merging on the highway.

When I first got my car almost 9 years ago, I was extremely inexperienced and ran into many, many issues in the first couple of years as well because I didn't research. The best advice you can ever get is to learn from OTHERS' mistakes and know what to avoid.

I don't know if the CEL flashes if you hit the rev limiter for certain, but I do know it'll flash if you overboost. If the car drives fine right now, just don't hammer on the pedal.

I also forgot to ask earlier. In what gear and at what RPM did you floor the car?

I do know that I?m not supposed to WOT in a high (say 6th) gear at a low rpm (say 3000rpm?s). Even when I?m racing someone when I start out in 1st gear I only hit WOT for maybe ?sometimes? a split second, and when I get to 2nd again, I might hit WOT for a split second, and with each gear I go thru, when I hit WOT I make sure before my foot hits the floor that my rpm?s are at the least 4000rpm?s. But occasionally I forgot to look, like when this happened. My car runs fine even when I get into it a little, everything seems fine, I just wanna keep the chances of it happening again down to a minimum. Cuz I read that I can break a piston or a rod like that....


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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Yes, that is correct. Don't ever go WOT under 3,000 RPM and you should never go WOT in 6th due to insane overload on the engine. Also, you have nowhere to on public streets. What happens is that you overload the engine and the turbo needs to overcompensate at low RPM's. It's like the opposite of a V8, where you do not have torque at 1,200-2,000 RPM.

Chalk this one as a learning experience. Here are some good threads with plenty of information:

https://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/th...i-s-Please-Read-This-Before-You-Harm-Your-Car!

https://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/threads/4294-Extremely-good-information-for-first-time-turbo-owners!

https://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/threads/5042-Noob-Threads-of-Interest
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Being that it was Cylinder 4, that makes me a little paranoid. But hopefully you didn't hurt anything. Personally, I would have expected your code to be overboost, especially since it is winter and that it something more likely to happen in cooler temps.

How many miles do you have on your spark plugs? If they are old, consider replacing them or at least pulling them out to check the gap. Plug gap can wander as they get older, especially if you drive like I do. :lol:
:peelout:

The flashing gauge cluster tell-tales are a sign that the ECU has put the car in limp mode. You will need to pull the battery terminals and let it sit for a while or use your AP to reset the ECU. Hopefully this was just a fluke misfire event.

If it happens again, especially on Cylinder 4, I would recommend a compression test (especially if you already replaced/regapped your plugs).
 

sniperkill

New member
Being that it was Cylinder 4, that makes me a little paranoid. But hopefully you didn't hurt anything. Personally, I would have expected your code to be overboost, especially since it is winter and that it something more likely to happen in cooler temps.

How many miles do you have on your spark plugs? If they are old, consider replacing them or at least pulling them out to check the gap. Plug gap can wander as they get older, especially if you drive like I do. :lol:
:peelout:

The flashing gauge cluster tell-tales are a sign that the ECU has put the car in limp mode. You will need to pull the battery terminals and let it sit for a while or use your AP to reset the ECU. Hopefully this was just a fluke misfire event.

If it happens again, especially on Cylinder 4, I would recommend a compression test (especially if you already replaced/regapped your plugs).

No, I haven?t replaced my plugs yet. But on the note for this thread.... I was thinking on my AP when the car is running, and I have my AP on with all 6 gauges going and I got one that monitors ?feedback knock? and I?ve read that any number below 2.50/0.00 is nornal and normally nothing to worry about. But my car gave me a reading of 2.80/0.00 when this whole thing happened. And then just today I was driving and I had it in 5th gear going around 55 to 65 mph and I gave it a little too much gas and it threw me another reading on the ?feedback knock? of 2.80/0.00. So now I?m a little worried that I might have messed something up? Cuz my car has never ever gave me a reading that high before

Under normal driving conditions, and even when I get into it a little the highest reading i get for ?feedback knock? is like 1.40/0.00 and for ?fine knock learn? the highest reading is about 1.75/0.00 . And that all the way across my power band 1st gear thru 6th gear, as long as I don?t WOT in 5th or 6th gear unless my rpm?s are above 4000rpm?s. On another guage on my AP is for D.A.M. and that reading always stays at 1.000.

Im POSITIVE that this WILL happen again. I just gotta figure out how imma get it to stop overboosting. I wish the guys that did my TurboXS turbo back exhaust would have told me the downfalls of having a catless downpipe cuz I would?ve gotten the high flow catted one, smh. When you go into a performance shop to get an exhaust on your car and you tell the guys I got a lot of money and I want a good exhaust on my car and this guy jumped up so quick it kinda scared me a little and says,? yeah, we?ll put a catless downpipe on her and throw on a TurboXS exhaust, a cobb cold air intake and we?ll also install your AP for you since your buying everything at once. That?s all I knew. I asked am I gonna have any problems with the catless downpipe? The guy says no, it?ll pass emissions, no worries. And now I?m having problems because this company put this catless downpipe on my car! I wanna call them back and ask them if they?ll replace the small piece of pipe on my downpipe with a catted one? At no cost to me. Cuz it?s their fault that my car keeps overboosting!

Also I wanted to tell you guys that when this happened, and when I looked up at my guages and seen them flashing, I didn?t think my car was in limp mode cuz when I hit the gas again to see if I still had power, I still had plenty of power. My car acted no different before and after this happened. So im kinda stumped. I?ve been reading for days trying to find out what to do?

So my game plan is this, tell me what you guys think good or bad, all opinions are welcomed.

1. Get a catted downpipe
2. Get a quality 3 port boost controller
3. New plugs?

I mean my car only has 42,000 miles on it. The plugs are the original one?s that came with the car. And 12,000 of them are from me. I was thinking of selling this car for about $23,000 and getting a another STI for less money and using the difference of money to build me a whole new engine for the other STI. Or I could just buy an already built STI? Just a few thoughts running around in my head.


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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
No, I haven?t replaced my plugs yet. But on the note for this thread.... I was thinking on my AP when the car is running, and I have my AP on with all 6 gauges going and I got one that monitors ?feedback knock? and I?ve read that and number below 2.50/0.00 is nornal and normally nothing to worry about. But my car gave me a reading of 2.80/0.00 when this whole thing happened. And then just today I was driving and I had it in 5th gear going around 55 to 65 mph and I gave it a little too much gas and it threw me another reading on the ?feedback knock? of 2.80/0.00. So now I?m a little worried that I might have messed something up? Cuz my car has never ever gave me a reading that high before

Under normal driving conditions, and even when I get into it a little the highest reading i get for ?feedback knock? is like 1.40/0.00 and for ?fine knock learn? the highest reading is about 1.75/0.00 . And that all the way across my power band 1st gear thru 6th gear, as long as I don?t WOT in 5th or 6th gear unless my rpm?s are above 4000rpm?s. On another guage on my AP is for D.A.M. and that reading always stays at 1.000.

Im POSITIVE that this WILL happen again. I just gotta figure out how imma get it to stop overboosting. I wish the guys that did my TurboXS turbo back exhaust would have told me the downfalls of having a catless downpipe cuz I would?ve gotten the high flow catted one, smh. When you go into a performance shop to get an exhaust on your car and you tell the guys I got a lot of money and I want a good exhaust on my car and this guy jumped up so quick it kinda scared me a little and says,? yeah, we?ll put a catless downpipe on her and throw on a TurboXS exhaust, a cobb cold air intake and we?ll also install your AP for you since your buying everything at once. That?s all I knew. I asked am I gonna have any problems with the catless downpipe? The guy says no, it?ll pass emissions, no worries. And now I?m having problems because this company put this catless downpipe on my car! I wanna call them back and ask them if they?ll replace the small piece of pipe on my downpipe with a catted one? At no cost to me. Cuz it?s their fault that my car keeps overboosting!

Also I wanted to tell you guys that when this happened, and when I looked up at my guages and seen them flashing, I didn?t think my car was in limp mode cuz when I hit the gas again to see if I still had power, I still had plenty of power. My car acted no different before and after this happened. So im kinda stumped. I?ve been reading for days trying to find out what to do?

So my game plan is this, tell me what you guys think good or bad, all opinions are welcomed.

1. Get a catted downpipe
2. Get a quality 3 port boost controller
3. New plugs?

I mean my car only has 42,000 miles on it. The plugs are the original one?s that came with the car. And 12,000 of them are from me. I was thinking of selling this car for about $23,000 and getting a another STI for less money and using the difference of money to build me a whole new engine for the other STI. Or I could just buy an already built STI? Just a few thoughts running around in my head.


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@sniperkill

1) Is the car running fine during normal driving conditions at the moment? Is the CEL on during normal driving conditions? (Normal = grandma style and civilized driving.)

2) You NEVER trust anyone, but yourself! You have to do YOUR due diligence and research everything! Unfortunately, not all shops and technicians are created equal... You can't rely on only one person for your information. YOU have to take initiative and responsibility in your best interest.

3) When you say "Cobb cold air intake," are you referring to the Cobb SF intake with heatshield? This one: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/subaru-sf-intake-airbox/


Here is my personal opinion, but for your best interest. I'm speaking from a point where I have experienced problems like these in the past and I'm responding in the most logical way to help someone who is new. Looking back at myself 9 years ago and the mistakes that occurred during those years, this would be my response:

You keep the car as it is. You drive NORMALLY like a grandma, and no more than about 40% throttle for accelerating. The issue here is a combination of the following items: the OTS Cobb map, cold weather, and catless downpipe. You can still enjoy the car without boosting to 15+ psi... I suggest you wait until we get back in the 60+ degree range and then retest the boosting situation. There is a LWG (low wastegate) and a HWG (high wastegate) map on Cobb's website that you can download. These special maps are there because no two cars behave the same way, so they compensate o the fact that some cars UNDERboost and some OVERboost. The problem is that it's winter time, though. Turbo cars will always overboost with colder, denser air, which is why I suggest you drive normally until Spring time. Since you're new, it may be too much information all at once to attempt to remedy the situation now. (Like reflashing the ECU, driving the proper way in order for the ECU to learn the new map, and so on.) If you go back to the shop, it'll just complicate things because everyone thinks that they themselves are correct. Why would a "shop who has all the experience they claim" listen to you and what you've read online from other people. I don't know the people who world there any what experience they truly have. There are mistakes that we ourselves have to make in order to learn. Sometimes, reading from others online isn't enough, which is unfortunate really...

So, once again: leave the car as it is -IF- it is currently running well under normal conditions. READ and LEARN as much as you can for the next couple of months until the weather warms up. Make sure you cite 5-7 different people/sources that come to the same conclusion. You can't only read the first response and assume it is correct. I was just looking at Google maps now to gauge how far you are from me. You're roughly 6 or so hours away. If you were closer, I would've been more than inclined to come out and help you. However, a 12 hour round trip doesn't have room in my schedule at the moment. Your car isn't broken per se, it's just that many different variables come into play at the same exact time and it can definitely be overwhelming to someone who is new.

Also, can you take a picture of your engine bay and post it?
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
yeah, we?ll put a catless downpipe on her and throw on a TurboXS exhaust, a cobb cold air intake and we?ll also install your AP for you since your buying everything at once. That?s all I knew. I asked am I gonna have any problems with the catless downpipe? The guy says no, it?ll pass emissions, no worries. And now I?m having problems because this company put this catless downpipe on my car! I wanna call them back and ask them if they?ll replace the small piece of pipe on my downpipe with a catted one? At no cost to me. Cuz it?s their fault that my car keeps overboosting!

Tell me more about this cold air intake. Also, please remind me...what tune is currently being run?

Do you still have the factory intake (in case you wanted to reinstall it)? I'm not up to date on all the OTS tunes than Cobb offers now and their compatibility with the intake, BUT since we now seem to be talking about potential knock issues rather than misfire, my attention has turned to the intake.

Catless downpipes definitely can cause some overboosting, but a good protune should be able to mitigate much of that issue.
 
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sniperkill

New member
@sniperkill

1) Is the car running fine during normal driving conditions at the moment? Is the CEL on during normal driving conditions? (Normal = grandma style and civilized driving.)


Yes, the car is running great at the moment. The CEL hasn?t come on again since this occurred. Lol. I knew what you meant by civilized driving.


2) You NEVER trust anyone, but yourself! You have to do YOUR due diligence and research everything! Unfortunately, not all shops and technicians are created equal... You can't rely on only one person for your information. YOU have to take initiative and responsibility in your best interest.


Yeah dude. I am aware that when it comes to the internet and everyone?s opinion, you have to take them with a grain of salt. There will be many opinions and their all different.... but in the end they are still opinions. Some good, some bad. I do do a lot of research when I have a problem. Cuz I like to fix my cars myself if I can. And as long as it?s not boring out piston walls then I can handle most repairs myself. I just gotta know a little bit about the cars I?ll be working on, you know this too I?m sure. But I am very new to Subaru and turbo?s. Before I got this car I basically knew how a turbo worked, that was about it. Back when I was in my early 20?s I was a mechanic for Firestone for about 5 years. So I know a little bit about cars for some background on me. Like, I had NO IDEA that you weren?t supposed to race other cars in the winter when you have turbo. It does seem like ever since this happened, under ?feedback knock? on my AP whenever I?m in like 3rd gear and I give it like half throttle at say 3200rpm's it gives me a quick reading of 2.80/0.00. I dunno. It might not be nothing to worry about at all. But it might be something to worry about. Not knowing is the problem. But yes, my car seems to be running like it was before this happened.


3) When you say "Cobb cold air intake," are you referring to the Cobb SF intake with heatshield? This one: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/subaru-sf-intake-airbox/


Again yes, that IS the intake that I?m using. I have the cold air box too.


Here is my personal opinion, but for your best interest. I'm speaking from a point where I have experienced problems like these in the past and I'm responding in the most logical way to help someone who is new. Looking back at myself 9 years ago and the mistakes that occurred during those years, this would be my response:

You keep the car as it is. You drive NORMALLY like a grandma, and no more than about 40% throttle for accelerating. The issue here is a combination of the following items: the OTS Cobb map, cold weather, and catless downpipe. You can still enjoy the car without boosting to 15+ psi... I suggest you wait until we get back in the 60+ degree range and then retest the boosting situation. There is a LWG (low wastegate) and a HWG (high wastegate) map on Cobb's website that you can download. These special maps are there because no two cars behave the same way, so they compensate o the fact that some cars UNDERboost and some OVERboost. The problem is that it's winter time, though. Turbo cars will always overboost with colder, denser air, which is why I suggest you drive normally until Spring time. Since you're new, it may be too much information all at once to attempt to remedy the situation now. (Like reflashing the ECU, driving the proper way in order for the ECU to learn the new map, and so on.) If you go back to the shop, it'll just complicate things because everyone thinks that they themselves are correct. Why would a "shop who has all the experience they claim" listen to you and what you've read online from other people. I don't know the people who world there any what experience they truly have. There are mistakes that we ourselves have to make in order to learn. Sometimes, reading from others online isn't enough, which is unfortunate really...


You sir, I like. You seem like you?ve been around the block a bit. Everyone here?s been so helpful and informative. But under the circumstances that I?m in, I think I?ll take your advice and drive like I normally drive. I normally drive like I got some sense. Unlike a lot of other drivers out there, mostly new drivers. And you are so right about everyone having to learn the hard way, I?m totally one of those people I hate to admit, instead of listening to people who have been through the same shit as you are going thru. I fortunately, am old enuf now to listen and to take others advice even if they are younger than me, it doesn?t matter, if I think you know what you are talking about then I?ll trust your judgement. I think I know enuf about cars in general to know if someone knows what they are doing or not. I do have a problem with being patient with doing work to my car. But I?ve learned to be a little more patient now that I have kids who come first. I was just trying to figure out if this problem is going to turn into something bigger cuz if it is, I would probably just get rid of the car. But I really really like my car, and love to drive it, but that damn ?feedback knock? reading of 2.80/0.00 is got me worried...


So, once again: leave the car as it is -IF- it is currently running well under normal conditions. READ and LEARN as much as you can for the next couple of months until the weather warms up. Make sure you cite 5-7 different people/sources that come to the same conclusion. You can't only read the first response and assume it is correct. I was just looking at Google maps now to gauge how far you are from me. You're roughly 6 or so hours away. If you were closer, I would've been more than inclined to come out and help you. However, a 12 hour round trip doesn't have room in my schedule at the moment. Your car isn't broken per se, it's just that many different variables come into play at the same exact time and it can definitely be overwhelming to someone who is new.

I appreciate that you would come to help me. Your too kind, but I don?t think I?m to that point just yet. I still haven?t talked to the shop who did all the work on my car. I might shoot them a line if I think about it. But as far as adding anything else to my car for this problem, it?ll have to wait I guess until it gets warmer. Yes, I?ll take a pic of my engine bay.


Also, can you take a picture of your engine bay and post it?




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sniperkill

New member
Tell me more about this cold air intake. Also, please remind me...what tune is currently being run?

It?s the Cobb SF cold air intake, with the cold air box. I was running the Cobb OTS Stage 2+ v334 93 oct something or other... but I recently switched to the Cobb OTA Stage 2+ v334 91 oct boost select. In hopes of that it wouldn?t make as much boost and the tune is for 91 octane so if I run 93 octane it might help a little with knock, maybe?

Also guys, I?m still running 5w20 synthetic castrol. But my next oil change I?ll be using the Amsoil 10w30. And my plugs probably have never been changed yet. I don?t think anything?s been changed unless I changed it.

Do you still have the factory intake (in case you wanted to reinstall it)? I'm not up to date on all the OTS tunes than Cobb offers now and their compatibility with the intake, BUT since we now seem to be talking about potential knock issues rather than misfire, my attention has turned to the intake.

I do still have ALL my stock parts. Intake, my old downpipe, the SPT exhaust I took off of it. Everything.


Catless downpipes definitely can cause some overboosting, but a good protune should be able to mitigate much of that issue.

I like to go by word of mouth for where I take my car to. And I really don?t know any other people like me who have a Subaru so I don?t know of any good tuner shops near me, just yet.


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sniperkill

New member
Can anyone answer if this is something to worry about or not please? On my AP one of the guages on it checks for ?feedback knock? and ever since I got that misfire on cylinder #4 the ?feedback knock? guage keeps giving me a reading of 2.80/0.00 not constantly, just at a low rpm in like 3rd or 4th and if I hit the gas about half way it will flash me a 2.80 reading on the ?feedback knock? reading. But on another guage I have it checking ?fine knock learn? and that reading stays at 0.00/0.00. So my question is, is this something to worry about? Should I take a log of it happening?


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Eagleye

Tinkerer
Can anyone answer if this is something to worry about or not please? On my AP one of the guages on it checks for ?feedback knock? and ever since I got that misfire on cylinder #4 the ?feedback knock? guage keeps giving me a reading of 2.80/0.00 not constantly, just at a low rpm in like 3rd or 4th and if I hit the gas about half way it will flash me a 2.80 reading on the ?feedback knock? reading. But on another guage I have it checking ?fine knock learn? and that reading stays at 0.00/0.00. So my question is, is this something to worry about? Should I take a log of it happening?



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Log this event for someone here to look at. [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] might be able to chime in if he has the time.
In the meantime, if this is a knock event I would consider the possibility of some poor gas (not sure if this was asked about yet). What kind of injector duty cycle are you at on this setup?
 

sniperkill

New member
Log this event for someone here to look at. [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] might be able to chime in if he has the time.
In the meantime, if this is a knock event I would consider the possibility of some poor gas (not sure if this was asked about yet). What kind of injector duty cycle are you at on this setup?

I don?t know if you know this already, lol... but I?m new to these cars and to turbo?s. So this ?injector duty cycle? you are referring to, I got no idea what your talking about, lol.... The only things that have been upgraded on my car is the catless TurboXS downpipe, a catback TurboXS exhaust, a Cobb SF cold air intake with the box, and my AP v3.

Update: so ever since I flashed the ?Stage 2+ 91 v334 boost select? my car has been giving me really low readings, anywhere between -1.05 to -2.80 under ?fine knock learn? and ?feedback knock? and I got a reading yesterday when I was driving that said -7.00 on ?fine knock learn?. So I reflashed the map I?ve been running this whole time which is the ?Stage2+ 93 v334 boost select? and now my car seems to be where it was before all this happened. So now when I drive ?normally? and even when I get into it a little, I get no readings under ?feedback knock? or under ?fine knock learn?. At least so far, I mean I just flashed it this morning but I?ve been driving around a bit so my car can learn the map again. Normally....lol

And here?s the pic of my engine bay

7e8be09c85900b5b7cc961cf76179a5c.jpg



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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
[MENTION=6754]sniperkill[/MENTION]

What is the dongle/device by the radiator cap?
What's with the insulation/padding on the left side of the intake?
What's up with that loose wire by the fuse box?



Wait, are you currently running on the 91 or 93 octane map?! You should have 93 octane readily available in Maryland! DO NOT USE 91! 91 octane is for Arizona, California, and Nevada residents who only have access to 91 octane!
 

Eagleye

Tinkerer
I see no issue at all running the 91 octane map but I would be using 92 and preferably 93 at all times. I would still suspect poor quality gas and suggest you log a couple of pulls with some normal driving just to rule out other issues.

Do a quick Google search on injector duty. The fuel system on these cars is not a good design, and it is generally recommended to upgrade the injectors and pump when you get to stage 2 and above.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Yeah...we're going to need [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] to think this through, since he is our tuning mastermind. I wish I knew more about tuning, but I'm way behind the power curve. He's my go-to for all things tuning related.
 

sniperkill

New member
[MENTION=6754]sniperkill[/MENTION]

What is the dongle/device by the radiator cap?
What's with the insulation/padding on the left side of the intake?
What's up with that loose wire by the fuse box?



Wait, are you currently running on the 91 or 93 octane map?! You should have 93 octane readily available in Maryland! DO NOT USE 91! 91 octane is for Arizona, California, and Nevada residents who only have access to 91 octane!

Lol. I thought all the questions in the beginning was funny... your like,? what?s all that crap you got everywhere in your engine bay, lol... anyways, the device is a Bluetooth thing for my fog lights.

The insulation or foam padding is just to keep the hot air out of my air filter area. It was an attempt to keep the air going into my engine colder.

And the loose wire is just the power wire for my fog lights. The fog light install was just a quick temp install. Since the pic I?ve taken all the loose wires out of my car.

I was running the stage 2+ 91 octane map and I was using 93 octane gas. Now I?m on the Stage 2+ 93 octane v334 boost select LWG map. When it gets a little warmer imma have my new tuner make a new tune for it. He suggested my wait until it gets warmer too before trying to pinpoint what my problem is...

And I ALWAYS run 93 octane. Even if I?m only putting $5 in my tank. I still use the 93 octane. I do have 93 octane readily available here in Maryland. I think you misunderstood me. I said I was just using the 91octane map. I wasn?t using the 91octane gas too. I ALWAYS use 93 octane.


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