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Thread: Rich idle and -25 correction

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Tinkerer Eagleye's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Quote Originally Posted by _Broken_WRX_ View Post
    Im going to clean my MAF today but Im not sure what that will really do for me.


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    Given what you have told us, I'll be shocked if this is a MAF issue, be careful cleaning it. Typically just a shot of compressed air will do as they are pretty sensitive.

    15 GBP STi

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  3. Top Of Page | #12
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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Ok is that the same thing as reflashing? I tried that a couole weeks ago and it actually seemed to help the car at least at idle. Maybe this rear O2 has more to do with it than I thought.
    Thanks


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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    Tinkerer Eagleye's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Quote Originally Posted by _Broken_WRX_ View Post
    Ok is that the same thing as reflashing? I tried that a couole weeks ago and it actually seemed to help the car at least at idle. Maybe this rear O2 has more to do with it than I thought.
    Thanks


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    Yes you can do a reflash. When you do that, allow the car to idle for about 5 mins to get the idle trim worked out. During that time, see what your AFR is at vs. before the flash. If it is where it should be I would just park the car (if possible) until you get the parts you need as that should fix your problem. If the AFR is still really rich post flash, I would begin looking for leaks.

    15 GBP STi

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  7. Top Of Page | #14
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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Quote Originally Posted by Eagleye View Post
    Yes you can do a reflash. When you do that, allow the car to idle for about 5 mins to get the idle trim worked out. During that time, see what your AFR is at vs. before the flash. If it is where it should be I would just park the car (if possible) until you get the parts you need as that should fix your problem. If the AFR is still really rich post flash, I would begin looking for leaks.
    Ok, Ill keep this thread posted once I get the part. Thanks


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  9. Top Of Page | #15
    Eats rice, drinks V8. Batmobile_Engage's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Quote Originally Posted by _Broken_WRX_ View Post
    Im going to clean my MAF today but Im not sure what that will really do for me.
    This is ALWAYS a good idea when troubleshooting. Just be very careful.

    Quote Originally Posted by _Broken_WRX_ View Post
    Ive tried clearing the code and it doesent really seem to do anything. Im having a hard time finding the right part for the rear O2 I tried to make a harness for it and its getting signal from the rear sensor but its still throwing the code for some reason. Subaru is supposed to have the part I need back in stock by may though so I will get it as soon as I can.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-Oxygen-S...wAAOSwQmZajNYp

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  11. Top Of Page | #16
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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    So I got the harness in and its no longer throwing the code but my issue persists. What should the MAP sensor read at idle? Mine is around 4.7 psi I feel like that is really low.
    Thanks


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  13. Top Of Page | #17
    Tinkerer Eagleye's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    After installing the new harness did you reflash?

    15 GBP STi

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  15. Top Of Page | #18
    Eats rice, drinks V8. Batmobile_Engage's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    Quote Originally Posted by _Broken_WRX_ View Post
    So I got the harness in and its no longer throwing the code but my issue persists. What should the MAP sensor read at idle? Mine is around 4.7 psi I feel like that is really low.
    Thanks
    I am NOT sure on this one, but I do think your MAP sensor should read ~5 psi at idle. This is because the engine is drawing a bit of vacuum at idle. I believe that if you were to stop the engine (but leave the key on) and read the MAP output, it should be roughly 14.7 psi.


    Quote Originally Posted by Eagleye View Post
    After installing the new harness did you reflash?
    Definitely reflash. Or better yet, full ECU reset. Either via an Accessport or manually.*

    * Disconnect positive battery terminal. Place a rag or plastic bag over the post to prevent inadvertant contact. Get in the car, turn key, bump brakes. Let sit for 2-3 minutes. Reconnect battery and start engine. Engine will most likely take longer than normal to start, so don't freak out.

    Drive carefully and observe for any reoccuring problems.

    Last edited by Batmobile_Engage; 5 Days Ago at 02:46 PM.
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  17. Top Of Page | #19
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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    I just reflashed and it didnt really seem to do much except idle a little rougher. What else should I check? Plugs maybe?


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  18. Top Of Page | #20
    On a quest of STi erudition! Alin's Avatar

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    Re: Rich idle and -25 correction

    First thing's first, have you performed a boost leak test yet?

    If this issue began only when the TMIC was removed and put back on, then I'd imagine it being one of two points: the throttle body to TMIC coupler or the turbo to TMIC coupler. A third would be the y-pipe, but I'm assuming that wasn't messed with. It would have to be a mechanical issue if the car was fine beforehand.

    Looks like you have a Cobb AP. I'd suggest you monitor some parameters and check if anything seems to be off regardless, but you really need to perform a boost leak test first.

    You can monitor things like, but I don't know if it'll help:

    (You already mentioned AFR was whack.)
    -Roughness Monitor Cylinder 1
    -Roughness Monitor Cylinder 2
    -Roughness Monitor Cylinder 3
    -Roughness Monitor Cylinder 4
    -Injector duty cycle
    -Injector Pulse Width
    -Injector Latency

    Do you have a wideband installed post turbo in your downpipe O2 bung?

    You can also check the physical spark plugs, coil packs, any loose connections around the engine bay. The intake, turbo, EBCS, and other various connections.

    Honestly, you have to begin with a boost leak test! It's extremely difficult to suggest things form behind a computer screen.

    Get us a video or some pictures of the engine bay in the meantime as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by Batmobile_Engage View Post
    It doesn't have to have a nut on the outside. Many are short, but I often try to find long ones that sometimes have a bend in them.

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