Best brake & rotor set-up for auto-cross & daily driver?

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Here is what I wanna know. What do you guys think is the best set-up for auto-cross and daily driver for brakes & rotors. I want something with bite and something that doesn't throw tons of brake dust or squeal. I wanna see what you guys have on your STi and maybe lead me in the right direction. Thanks.
 

Paul.c

New member
I would suggest just pads unless your rotors are shot to shit. Upgraded rotors are great if you are overheating your stock rotors. But that usually takes longer than a couple auto-x laps or stop and go traffic. If you plan on multiple road course events go for it.

Hawk pads are what I will upgrade mine to FYI.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
I only have 9500 miles on my car so stock rotors and pads are what I have now, lol.
 

boxtwo

Moderator
For the street, I use DBA 5K slotted front, Brembo blanks in the back. Ferrodo 2500 pads. For the track, I use PFC01 pads (probably NOT what you want for autox.) If you can switch pads pre autox, you might want to try Hawk HT10 pads. They have some decent bite when cold and it is awesome when hot. They are noisy and dust a lot though.
 
I have some centric premium rotors (not slotted or drilled) and Hawk HP + pads sitting in my room for when my stock ones are shot.

JJ,
I know you're all about the best for your car regardless of cost but something always comes to mind when discussing brakes for autocross. At every event in my region we have a novice walk through led by 15 time national champion Tommy Sanders. At every single walkthrough he asks what the 3 most important parts of the car are. The answers are tires, tires, tires. He then asks what the least important part of the car is... the answer is brakes. For road racing, HPDE's, etc. brakes are important but for autocross they're not something that should be worried about when plenty of life is left on the stock pads. As long as you're not seeing fade during an event (you wont with OEM pads) then you don't need to worry about it until you're pads are shot.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
OK thanks Jared! I will just keep the stock brakes and rotors for now until I get a feel for the car on the track. Guess it's time to looking at tires! LOL.
 

boxtwo

Moderator
I'll be using star specs as my wet track and DD tires. My RE01R's are basically slicks at this point...

I have been VERY happy with the DBA stuff. A GREAT used find.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Thanks boxtwo!
 

BadlandsRacer

New member
I'll second the StarSpecs, JJ. Used 235 StarSpecs this year and LOVED them.

I use Hawk HPS pads. Really good on the squeal, not so good on the dust. For rotors, like people have said...you won't overheat your stock rotors with a few autocross laps...but if you WANT to switch, a two-piece rotor to lower rotating weight would offer some decent benefits for handling and accelerating out of the turns on an autocross course.
 

Paul.c

New member
Thanks Geoff. Glad to hear positive feedback about project mu. Another important thing to think about is brake fluid. Check it regularly, especially when you are auto-xing.
 

icudruln

New member
Mine as well swap out to some ATE Super Blue or Motul Brake Fluid. Cost versus benefits are very nice. From what I've seen and been recommended, a nice set of pads, Star Specs, and the better brake fluid should be a nice setup for a while. Get your feet wet with autocross, then decide where to upgrade.

I've read quite a few positive reviews on the Project Mu pads...they'll likely be the next set I go with. I run the Stoptech-Centric pads for street. I felt a dowgrade from the Brembo's right away :(
 

STi FR3AK

Armyssoldierboy
Subscribed.
 

joey.lisano

New member
For your car JJ, I'd recommend brake fluid (especially if it's never been changed), stainless steel lines (if you don't already have them), and pads. Brake pads will always be user preference due to the trade offs involved. Heck, "results may vary" since I've heard BadlandsRacer's Hawk HPS pads squeal like a little girl throwing a hissy fit, whereas mine have been whisper quiet. As far as rotors, I think you could better spend that money elsewhere for where you are. If you have money to blow, I agree with BadlandsRacer in that two piece rotors will reduce interia, which allows faster acceleration, deceleration, and cornering.

[...] but something always comes to mind when discussing brakes for autocross. At every event in my region we have a novice walk through led by 15 time national champion Tommy Sanders. At every single walkthrough he asks what the 3 most important parts of the car are. The answers are tires, tires, tires. He then asks what the least important part of the car is... the answer is brakes.
I would like to modify his advice to "tire patch." The tire patch is everything. You can't accelerate, brake, or turn if you don't have enough tire patch. The tire patch depends on the tire size, dynamic alignment, and weight distribution. The dynamic alignment is why suspension mods feel so good - whether it's sway bars, bushings, springs, coilovers, more negative camber, more positive caster, the ALK geometry change, or roll center adjustments, they all go towards improving the dynamic alignment. Obviously, the tire is a huge part of the equation, but it's not everything.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Thanks Joey!
 

BadlandsRacer

New member
Amen to tire patch, Joey. Keep in mind, JJ, that if you're just using a stock rim for racing, you can fit a 235 tire on there (I use a 235 StarSpec for autocross). With even an 8" wide wheel, you can make that a 245 tire...not sure the size of those OZ wheels you just put on, but make use of the width for sure!! Or just say screw it, get Karlton's fender flares, scrape out the innards, and show you've got a pair with a set of 305s. :lol:

As for pads, don't let Jared scare you. :p I haven't noticed ANY brake fade on my HPS pads. Granted, those are the only pads (other than the stock ones) that I've had on my car, so I don't know too much about other pads out there. I do know that the squeal on my pads Joey mentioned was a result of lack of bedding (my fault) and has since gone away almost completely (just a little whine sometimes when it's wet/rainy out). There is quite a lot of brake dust though.

As for brake fluid, I used some Motul RBF600 and the brake pedal felt EXTREMELY squishy to me afterward. I did not bleed my own brakes, but had a local shop do it (I'm lame like that). When the brakes DID engage, they were strong...it just felt like it required far more pedal travel to engage them over Subaru fluid. I opened each caliper, pushing the brake pedal to the floor as each one was opened, in succession, to try to vent any air, but the problem never really went away. I ended up switching back to Subaru fluid and it felt much better. No idea whether this was just the shop's error with air in the lines, or if this is truly how it's supposed to be with other brake fluids (likely the first).

Also, +1 to Geoff's suggestion about stainless steel brake lines. I'd really like to do that upgrade myself, but I is poor. :lol:
 
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