A Few Questions For The Tuners.

Im finally about to pull motor this Sunday since all thats needed is to unbolt motor mounts and then the bellhousing bolts to get my block out.

Since I have a version 1 ap with a pro tune on my stock turbo i don't want to do too much upgrading while I'm rebuilding because I don't want to have to retune it till I get a larger turbo and top feed conversion in the future.

The car is 2005 STI pro tuned for the current mods that consist of borla header, mad dad divorced catted DP, perrin twin tube exhaust two single muffler, Walbro fuel pump, ingen CAIC, ignition amp & a perrin FMIC.

The new block will be a MPS built block that has Wiseco pistons and K1 rods of course blueprinted and balanced.

Along with the typical maintenance parts that will be replaced I will be installing a perrin pre MAF turbo inlet tube, phenolic spacer along with just cleaning up the burrs and polishing anything thats on the intake and exhaust components.

I've been told that my ecu should be able to compensate for those simple mods with out a tune but my real questions are below.

If I just remove the butterflies and port match the TGVs and intake will that affect my tune? (I plan on going top feed conversion with composite TGV housing when I do a large turbo)

If I reverse the intake manifold and shorten the FMIC tubing will I need to retune for the smaller over all volume of the FMIC piping?
Probably won't do this but I have a friend that can weld and its tempting)

Any info would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
I think both of those will require a tune.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
Also, take the rods out. They're a big restriction, and you can disable the codes with an AP (at least V2 or V3)
 
Also, take the rods out. They're a big restriction, and you can disable the codes with an AP (at least V2 or V3)

I've heard that leaving rods won't throw codes and technically the increase in flow is after MAF so it shouldn't require a tune due to the ecu being able to adjust to it.

I can't delete it fully because I have a pro tune from a pro tuner that dosent tune anymore and won't be able to delete codes.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
Can you get in touch with him at all? Deleting a code is a 3 min thing, and if he's not tuning, he MAY be willing to give you an unlocked copy, or at least send the locked version to another active tuner.
 
Can you get in touch with him at all? Deleting a code is a 3 min thing, and if he's not tuning, he MAY be willing to give you an unlocked copy, or at least send the locked version to another active tuner.

I've looked in to trying to find him and all the leads were dead ends.

Its Dan Harmon from Harmon Motive that tune it before.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
IMO doing TGV deletes definitely requires a tune. Your idle and low RPM trims will suffer greatly.
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
IMO doing the tgv's without removing the rods is a bit of a wasted effort. Since your going built engine with a few extras, why not go the extra mile and get a retune? Chances are, you might need some touch ups with the tune and new motor with additions.
If I were gonna put that kinda cash into the motor, I would definitely make sure things are working in a zen like state. For sake of peace of mind and an expensive investment.
 
Well it sounds like ill just go boring and keep it as is except for the perin turbo inlet tube and phenolic spacers. I just don't want to screw up the tune since I can't justify tuning the stock turbo just for a few extra ponies and torque.

Also like i said I have a version 1 AP that is no longer supported.
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
Not speaking in terms of more power, but logging to be sure the new motor is running properly with the tune you have, and a retune may be needed with the new motor.

You absolutely can't rule that out and must be prepared to do so.

The V1 AP is a dinosaur and I would seriously consider upgrading to at least a version two. You can add your existing maps to it.

Why rewire a new home with a 1940's fuse box when circuit breakers are needed?
 
Not speaking in terms of more power, but logging to be sure the new motor is running properly with the tune you have, and a retune may be needed with the new motor.

You absolutely can't rule that out and must be prepared to do so.

The V1 AP is a dinosaur and I would seriously consider upgrading to at least a version two. You can add your existing maps to it.

Why rewire a new home with a 1940's fuse box when circuit breakers are needed?


I don't know if your aware of the fact that the new AP dosent do anything more tuning wise other then being a usable gauge and being able to log data with a few more bells and whistles compared to my dinosaur.

I'm going tactrix with an open source tune next time so this isn't a repeat issue for me.

I do understand about logging and I will be getting an afr gauge to ensure im not going lean even though I haven't figured out which gauge i want yet.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I don't know if your aware of the fact that the new AP dosent do anything more tuning wise other then being a usable gauge and being able to log data with a few more bells and whistles compared to my dinosaur.

I'm going tactrix with an open source tune next time so this isn't a repeat issue for me.

I do understand about logging and I will be getting an afr gauge to ensure im not going lean even though I haven't figured out which gauge i want yet.

What ever gauge you do settle on please make sure it has an RS232 serial output for logging. The wide band gauges with 0-5 volts are useless. AEM is your cheapest and easiest bet. don't get pulled into the hype that other gauges are more accurate. It is only as accurate as the sensor it is using and they all use either the bosch or denso sensors. the AEM does not require any kind of calibration and it is insanely simple to hook up and is one of the cheapest.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
+1 for AEM UEGO. Thats what i have. :tup:
 
What ever gauge you do settle on please make sure it has an RS232 serial output for logging. The wide band gauges with 0-5 volts are useless. AEM is your cheapest and easiest bet. don't get pulled into the hype that other gauges are more accurate. It is only as accurate as the sensor it is using and they all use either the bosch or denso sensors. the AEM does not require any kind of calibration and it is insanely simple to hook up and is one of the cheapest.

Thanks for the info I was already looking at that one and yes im one that dosent fall for all the marketing hype.
 

TK-421

New member
I as well recommend the AEM UEGO to all of my customers, to top it all off replacement sensors for the UEGO are the lowest cost of any as well. Plus the UEGO can come as positional as a FAILSAFE gauge, if you want the added security.
 
So I should be able to simply install the sensor in my mad dad DP's extra bung that is on the top of the DP correct?

Do you guys think the new 4110 model is worth the extra cash over the older 4100 model on the UEGO.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Yes you could try it there first. If the AFRs are erratic or don't agree with the stock A/F Sensor, then you may have to move it.

The 4110 is the one with the OLED display right?
 
I might just do a aem failsafe afr/boost since it has logging and a failsafe if my afr goes lean. If it's too big of a pita to set up the fail safe I'll just use it as an afr and boost gauge since I don't want to have a bunch of gauges in my car and these would be two of the key ones id want.
 
Top