CEL Lean on Bank 1 - why?

Hey gang: I've got a fairly stock STI with the SPT cold-air intake on it, and recently when I had to have the steering lines and rack replaced, I started getting a 'Lean on Bank 1' code. I can't think of anything that would cause that and the mechanic that did the work was stumped. I don't see any leaks, I've tried cleaning the MAF and the SPT intake filter (it was due), but still the code appears after the engine is warm. 80,000 miles on it--could this be seals maybe? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
What tune are you currently on?
[MENTION=1507]Spamby[/MENTION] [MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] [MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] [MENTION=1069]35r[/MENTION] [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] [MENTION=1]IGOTASTi.COM[/MENTION] [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] [MENTION=711]Robert Viehweger[/MENTION]
 
That's the sickening part. I had a local guy where I used to live who tuned it, and then when I moved to a new area and had a problem, I didn't know anyone around here so I trusted the dealer to fix the steering (it was undriveable). God knows why, but when they did that work and got that Lean code, they just flashed the ECU and blew away the tune. I'm very not happy about it and now I'm trying to pick up the pieces, get the light to go away, and then get someone who knows what they're doing to tune me again.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
How were you tuned; Cobb Accessport or Tactrix cable?

I don't see how the dealer could've messed with the tune if they worked on your steering issue. Even if you were to reset the ECU or remove the battery, the tune should've still just reset itself and relearn its parameters.

Can you get us a log?
 
I don't mind admitting that there's a lot about newer vehicles I don't know--I learn and do what I can and then rely on other people to help me where I can't. So...is it possible the dealer who flashed the ECU needed to then flash some other computer or component under the hood? They keep saying no, there's only one computer, and yet...I keep thinking it's lean because ECU expects one set of values, and some (other thing) along the way expects another. The car runs fine, and when the light is thrown, nothing physical happens, the light just comes on.
 
I'll try to get you a log. I've started another thread asking for recommendations on tuning shops in my area. I might be able to go to them and ask. It may be a few days, but when I can I'll post a log here.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Let's wait for the experts to get in here in the meantime as well! :tup:
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] [MENTION=1]IGOTASTi.COM[/MENTION] [MENTION=1507]Spamby[/MENTION] [MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] [MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] [MENTION=1069]35r[/MENTION] [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] [MENTION=600]black bandit[/MENTION]
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I definitely agree that a log would be helpful here. When you do, please log the following...

Engine Load
Engine Speed
A/F Correction #1
A/F Learned #1
A/F Sensor #1 Ratio
MAF Voltage
Throttle Position
Injector Duty Cycle
Cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4 Roughness Monitors

Just drive around normal and do not go WOT. Lean conditions are usually caused by leaks but it could be anything.

If your are looking for a tune consider this... http://igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php?3830-E-Tuning-Service-for-Paying-Members

:D
 

35r

New member
Where do you live ? We know reputable shops across the country that will be more than happy to get you in and fixed properly. Without being there to see whats going on its difficult to help or diagnose. a log will help a little, but your best bet is getting to a tuner that can be hands on.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
A log will either tell us nothing or it will tell us exactly what is wrong. Either way it would be very helpful IMO. You just need to know how to read the subtle differences.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Horsepower Logic in West Palm Beach is a great shop. The tuner (Jack Cecil) is very knowledgable.
If you're not too far away, I would highly recommend them.

http://horsepowerlogic.com/Installs.html

(I linked you to the installs tab because the first photo on that page is my car!) :cool:
 
Hopefully they didnt flash the tune out of it. However, possible causes for this.
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensorPossible causes for this.
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Depending on what they removed to replace everything, they may have left something disconnected causing the fault.
 
Thanks guys - this will help. I've worked a little on cars here and there, but not with newer turbo vehicles with electronics & etc., so I'll try to learn a little more as I go.

I live in Florida close Clearwater, Tampa, and St. Petersburg. Since I'm on my own discovering this stuff (for now), I ordered a Cobb Accessport V3 so I can do things like pull logs or clear codes.

Any shops nearby you can recommend would be appreciated. The Accessport will arrive early next week so I'll read the book ahead of time to learn how do get this info.


Thanks.
 
WRB_STI, yes the problem is they definitely DID flash the tune out of it. I appreciate that checklist: I figured it would be a long one, that's part of why I decided to go ahead and post here. The dealer claims that they checked every hose, seal, and clamp and the sensors are all OK. I did clean the MAF and that didn't help. The problem came before I oiled the filter and I think I was pretty careful when I did clean & oil it to let it wick and not to over-oil it. The rest are certainly likely culprits. The dealer wants to take apart the manifold and replace all the seals: hours' worth of work on what they admit is a guess. Since all was well before the work they did, I'm still hanging my hopes that the problem is more software than hardware.

Batmobile_engage, thanks for the link! I think I'll take it to these guys. I have to schedule it around a part-time job and a full-time job search so I'm thinking next week is my best bet.

I'm still open to suggestions and I will still update here as to how it goes.

I very much appreciate your help.
 
Ouch! I just saw that they're located on the opposite side of the state from me. :-/ I can't manage that just because this is my only car.

Anything closer to Tampa that anyone knows about?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I would suggest canceling the order on the AccessPort and buy a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 instead. It is only $170. It will do all you need it to do, it just doesn't have all the fluff that the AccessPort does. One advantage that the AccessPort does give you is OTS maps... but if you know someone like me I can whip up a stage 2 tune in no time.

Either way if you need any assistance feel free to ask!
 
Thanks HolyCrapItsFast: I hadn't realized the Tactrix was that easy to use. Am I correct that it would be easy to get similar presets to the ones on the AccessPort?
 
I would suggest canceling the order on the AccessPort and buy a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 instead. It is only $170. It will do all you need it to do, it just doesn't have all the fluff that the AccessPort does. One advantage that the AccessPort does give you is OTS maps... but if you know someone like me I can whip up a stage 2 tune in no time.

Either way if you need any assistance feel free to ask!

That he can do.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] is the man [MENTION=830]STIckler07[/MENTION]. :tup:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Thanks HolyCrapItsFast: I hadn't realized the Tactrix was that easy to use. Am I correct that it would be easy to get similar presets to the ones on the AccessPort?

The thing with the Tactrix is To use it, it requires you to have the laptop hooked up and running RomRaider. It does not have the pretty GUI that the AP has. With the AP, you can monitor and log everything right from the device. Is it worth the $600 to do that? I don't think so but others do. The AP is very nice I will give it that. You can monitor everything with the Tactrix that you can monitor with the AP. One thing I like about the AP is AccessTuner Race software. It give us access to more tables than Open Source and it implements some aspects of tuning features better, but for most applications, Open Source is more than enough.

Sometimes it can be a bit of a journey to get the Tactrix to work properly but that is what we are here for. We can help with that. Either way you go, we can work with it.
 
Top