Good day!
I'm currently tuning a 2016 STi, with the following:
OEM RA Shortblock
IAG Stage 3 heads
BC 280 cams
TGV Deletes
ID1700 Injectors
Walbro 525 pump
custom 6AN fuel lines for feed/return from the tank
Aeromotive FPR set at 43.5 base
OTL Coilpacks
FP Black stock location
hard 3" inlet
MAFless 3" intake
Currently tuning with AccessTuner on SD. The car drives fairly well, with minor hiccups in the 2-3k range, mainly during shifts. I'm assuming this is either timing or fueling related from what I can tell. The fueling side of things are almost perfect, and was tuned on full time open loop. I've found with the ID1700s, I get better cruising drivability in full time open loop, so for now that's where it'll stay.
My main reasons for posting are return to idle stability and smoothing transition during shifts.
Return to idle is fine now after I adjusted target throttle angles (idle airflow target), increasing target throttle position. I fear this is the incorrect way of doing this, so I'm reaching out to see if it is indeed the wrong way, and what is the correct way. I've tried what seems like everything prior to doing this with no improvement. The reason I adjusted this table stems from a tune I did on my personal car which was an 03 WRX with 280 cams as well. The 03 WRX being a DBC, I ended up fixing my idling issues by kicking the throttle out slightly until return to idle was stable with no overshoot. I suppose I'm trying to accomplish the same thing with this 2016 STI. Prior to this though, I tried adjusting idle ignition timing, overrun fueling, richening target AFR, Idle Airflow Min. Target Decel. Initial Idle Min. Airflow and Idle Airflow Min. Target Decel. Initial Idle Min. Airflow Activation (Max. Idle Mode Counter). Currently, the car cruises at 14.0 for AFRs, as this ended up being the most drivable with ID1700s for me. I guess I'm looking for some "training" on how the idling on these DBW cars work, specifically the idle tables I mentioned previously.
As for transition during shifts and roughness... This one I have always had a hard time tackling. If shifting smooth and easing back onto the throttle, there are no issues what-so-ever. But, if RPMS fall around 2300 - 3000 RPMs, during a more aggressive shift (still cruising, but shifting and getting right back on the throttle), it's quite jerky or hesitant. I've seen improvement with richening up AFRs in this area, but I can feel the problem is still there. I've played with Tip-In, but no real improvement there. When looking at timing, I see the ECU retarding timing roughly 20 degrees twice during the shift. I'm assuming this is tip-in and overrun ignition compensations. I've kind of played with these tables, but ultimately put them back to stock values.
My VE, Timing, Target AFR tables are all smoothed with nice transitions, with the exception of my VE table having high and low uniform ridges down in the cruising area which was necessary for the correct AFRs (I'm still not sure if this is normal, but it works and I've repeated this pattern on multiple vehicles). I would greatly appreciate any and all assistance! Thank you!
Matthew
I'm currently tuning a 2016 STi, with the following:
OEM RA Shortblock
IAG Stage 3 heads
BC 280 cams
TGV Deletes
ID1700 Injectors
Walbro 525 pump
custom 6AN fuel lines for feed/return from the tank
Aeromotive FPR set at 43.5 base
OTL Coilpacks
FP Black stock location
hard 3" inlet
MAFless 3" intake
Currently tuning with AccessTuner on SD. The car drives fairly well, with minor hiccups in the 2-3k range, mainly during shifts. I'm assuming this is either timing or fueling related from what I can tell. The fueling side of things are almost perfect, and was tuned on full time open loop. I've found with the ID1700s, I get better cruising drivability in full time open loop, so for now that's where it'll stay.
My main reasons for posting are return to idle stability and smoothing transition during shifts.
Return to idle is fine now after I adjusted target throttle angles (idle airflow target), increasing target throttle position. I fear this is the incorrect way of doing this, so I'm reaching out to see if it is indeed the wrong way, and what is the correct way. I've tried what seems like everything prior to doing this with no improvement. The reason I adjusted this table stems from a tune I did on my personal car which was an 03 WRX with 280 cams as well. The 03 WRX being a DBC, I ended up fixing my idling issues by kicking the throttle out slightly until return to idle was stable with no overshoot. I suppose I'm trying to accomplish the same thing with this 2016 STI. Prior to this though, I tried adjusting idle ignition timing, overrun fueling, richening target AFR, Idle Airflow Min. Target Decel. Initial Idle Min. Airflow and Idle Airflow Min. Target Decel. Initial Idle Min. Airflow Activation (Max. Idle Mode Counter). Currently, the car cruises at 14.0 for AFRs, as this ended up being the most drivable with ID1700s for me. I guess I'm looking for some "training" on how the idling on these DBW cars work, specifically the idle tables I mentioned previously.
As for transition during shifts and roughness... This one I have always had a hard time tackling. If shifting smooth and easing back onto the throttle, there are no issues what-so-ever. But, if RPMS fall around 2300 - 3000 RPMs, during a more aggressive shift (still cruising, but shifting and getting right back on the throttle), it's quite jerky or hesitant. I've seen improvement with richening up AFRs in this area, but I can feel the problem is still there. I've played with Tip-In, but no real improvement there. When looking at timing, I see the ECU retarding timing roughly 20 degrees twice during the shift. I'm assuming this is tip-in and overrun ignition compensations. I've kind of played with these tables, but ultimately put them back to stock values.
My VE, Timing, Target AFR tables are all smoothed with nice transitions, with the exception of my VE table having high and low uniform ridges down in the cruising area which was necessary for the correct AFRs (I'm still not sure if this is normal, but it works and I've repeated this pattern on multiple vehicles). I would greatly appreciate any and all assistance! Thank you!
Matthew
