Port and polish heads diy

MCScoobaru

New member
I'm trying to find any tips or tricks for port and polishing heads. I want to port intake, exhaust, and headers. Do I use the old gasket that's crushed or do I use a new one? Really any info that could help. I'm probably going to do a write up on this. Since I can't really find a how to.

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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
When I do it I use a set of new gaskets. I don't imagine it would make much of a difference though because the gasket doesn't really expand much beyond it's original size even when compressed.

I usually start off with the carbide bur for rough removal of material and then follow up with a sanding drum followed by a cross buff. It makes for a really nice finish when done. Don't forget to bowl blend the valve seats.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/49707698?fromRR=Y

http://www.eastwood.com/8pc-dual-cu...Deto1yFt6lVyZBZnZ1wZ3MnF3fkJYXQMsxRoC6Fjw_wcB
 

MCScoobaru

New member
Awesome!! Thank you [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] I'm gonna get the machine shop to do the valves. I just want to save a little bit of money. But I've got the port and polish kit from jegs. But so far that's all I've got. I'll have to pick up some of those cross buffers though.

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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Awesome!! Thank you @HolyCrapItsFast I'm gonna get the machine shop to do the valves. I just want to save a little bit of money. But I've got the port and polish kit from jegs. But so far that's all I've got. I'll have to pick up some of those cross buffers though.

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The cross buff are quite awesome but you go through them pretty quick. If you get them, buy a bunch. Also be aware of how much material you remove from inside the port if you plan on going in deep (that's what she said). There is a spot that is close to the water jacket and the wall is thin.
 

MCScoobaru

New member
Awesome. Thanks man. I appreciate the help. And yeah. They kinda look like scotch bright wheels. And yeah. Do you know which cylinder is close to the water jacket [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]

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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Well all of them actually, both exhaust and intake. if you look at the inside radius of each of the port runners, you will note that they are either close to a water jacket or an oil line. Just keep these areas in mind when removing material. Most likely you will not be removing nearly as much to compromise the jackets but it doesn't hurt to practice caution here. If you do remove to much material in these areas, you may not break through to the jacket but the wall will be to thin and could crack later on from exhaust heat. It is probably better to not remove any material from these areas and focus on the outside radius of the runner and the mouth area. Then polish the entire runner once you are satisfied. :tup:

The key to a good port job is to give the flow of gasses the path of least resistance and also to give it more volume. Try to imagine the flow through the head and what obstacles the gasses may encounter along the way and deal with them individually. Take your time and be steady handed and don't just go in removing material without thinking about it first and visualizing the flow past that area

Good luck with this and I am looking forward to the final results!
 

MCScoobaru

New member
Awesome!! Thank you for this info. Yeah I was just gonna buff it till I get it smooth. I wasn't gonna stick a burr down there. I was just gonna focus on where the headers bolt up. To make it match. And slick the rest of it up. I'm gonna post some pics and a diy when I get it done.

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MCScoobaru

New member
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] how many cross buffers would you recommend getting. They're kinda pricy for what they are.

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MCScoobaru

New member
Finally finished the port and polish. Wasn't as hard as I thought it was gonna be. But sadly I ran into a few complications. When I was gasket matching the exhaust ports. I ground through the casting where there's a void spot in the casting. There's a u channel behind the mating surface. So I didn't grind into a water jacket thankfully. So I had to weld it up. If you're going to do this. Watch out right there. It's on the bottom from about 4 o'clock to 8 o'clock. It'll get pretty thin right there if you don't reenforce the underside like I did. But thankfully being a nuclear pipe welder. The casting wasn't too hard for me to weld up. Also. Very few pictures were taken. Sadly. I was hoping to do a write up on it. But it's pretty straight forward. Just slick everything up and shine it up with the micro buffs. I'll post a detailed list of tools I used and the few pictures in a bit. I haven't finished my motor yet. So I don't know if the performance has increased. But those ports are fucking massive!!! And the machine shop said I did a good job on them. So I'm happy with it!!


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