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[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION], so it sounds like the boost leak test should pressurize everything all the way to the throttle, and barring any bad seals, should hold that pressure. What is the test I've seen mentioned where people are spraying some type of cleaner on the hoses and listening for RPM changes? Is that a similar test?
 

TK-421

New member
[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION], so it sounds like the boost leak test should pressurize everything all the way to the throttle, and barring any bad seals, should hold that pressure. What is the test I've seen mentioned where people are spraying some type of cleaner on the hoses and listening for RPM changes? Is that a similar test?

That would be more along the lines of a vacuum leak test, you never want to pressurize the system while the vehicle is running especially at idle. There would be no way for the vehicle to correct the fuel trims.
 

TK-421

New member
Today is moving day for me, making my way back north to PA for the spring/summer one last time. During my stay up there I will be coordinating with [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] to use his car in-conjunction with some very long awaited and informative install write ups.

I will be doing most of them, but Alin will be doing a few of them as well.

We will be covering the following topics:

Removal of intake manifold
Installation of TGV Deletes
Installation of Fuel Injectors
Installation of Turbocharger
Installation of Headers
Installation of UpPipe

Replacement of Wheel Bearing for GD STi's

Installation of Lowering Springs

Installation of Master Polyurethane Bushing set

Amongst many other things.

So stay tuned, as a lot of these mods will be happening one right after the other.
 

SudoSTI

Member
I would be very much interested in a complete engine assembly geared toward a performance engine. I know a lot of stuff is proprietary info to engine builders but if you could give a hint as to what it is that is proprietary and why I would find that most helpful. I've watched the below video start to finish and it really took away the shroud of mystery I had with engine assembly. The guy is a Subaru master tech and builds performance engines for sand rails now so I would believe he knows what he's talking about. He doesn't go over head assembly though which seems like a science unto itself. I would be willing to purchase any tools I don't currently have. I don't think there would be anything more satisfying I could do to my car than to be able to assemble my own long block and have it run properly. :)

Video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-gmtEQ1GpmA
 

TK-421

New member
I've seen that video before, he's pretty thorough. Head work is generally left to the machine shop because most folks are working with used cylinder heads that have to be decked and the cam followers need to be measured for proper valve lash, it's a bit of a pisser to do it with out the special machine shop equipment. But as far as building a short block it's pretty straight forward if your working with all brand new components. When you have a brand new crank, bearings, rods and Pistons with a brand new short block its a pretty simple process. Just like what you have seen in the video. The only thing he doesn't talk about is getting the rod journals honed and the block line honed. I absolutely recommend getting all of that done and also having the rods balanced. I can't tell you how many times I've had a customer come in and say I build the short block myself for him to find out that they needed to get the block line honed and rods balanced out in not doing so it started to create a sort of "phantom knock" and the ECU kept trying to pull timing and it was a real headache to tune.
 

SudoSTI

Member
Is it recommended to have any of the oiling components modified e.g. on the crank or the squirters? I seem to recall reading the oiling system of the EJs isn't stupendous. I know the EJ205s were worse, but the EJ257s can still be improved upon.
 

TK-421

New member
It's generally the pick up tube and the oil pump that's the issues, it's not necessarily the flow that's the problem, more the volume. Gotta remember a pump creates volume not pressure. Pressure drops if there is insufficient volume so the two work hand in hand. If the pick up fails it can't reach the pump, if it can't reach the pump the volume can't be created to reach the required pressure.

Honestly the only way I would think about modifying the oil squirters and oil passages is if you were making clearance in the block for a stroker kit. Maybe the journal passages if your going to run 2 or 3 times thicker bearings because of having to have the crank cut, but usually by that time the crank is junk and you should just seek a replacement
 

SudoSTI

Member
Well cool beans. I think I'll tackle a new short block assembly myself after I get the bastid running. :lol: My current one is a Crawford S1 so just drop in pistons. Considering what my turbo is capable of I have a feeling the stock bearings and rods won't appreciate me for very long and I'll need another.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] I realize that I'm (relatively/somewhat) good at diagnosing a problem and fixing it. I don't always have the right tools, but I can tell when something's off, especially if its a sudden break and the car changes dramatically. However, I don't really have a good system in place for preventative maintenance and regular checkups. Do you have any guidelines on a how-to self-inspection for your car, in terms of what to check, how to check it, and how often. I can see this having several levels, one with the nothing-has-to-come-apart, and the other as requiring removing ICs and needing tools, etc...

I'm looking for something like a breakdown for:
Engine Bay (every 6 months or with oil changes):
Visual inspection around PS reservoir for leaks. Leaks will usually be seen on the underside (i'm making stuff up because I don't know).


Front suspension (every year or before/after any track days)
Check control arm bushings. A visual inspection for cracking. Then try to tug on them with generous force and if there's discernable play, they may need to be replaced. (again, making stuff up).
Check sway bar mounts for cracking, especially if you drive your car hard and have upgraded the swaybars. If they're not cracked or bent, they're fine.
Check for lube on the swaybar bushings. This is a common source of binding and clicking. To check, you'll have to, yada yada yada...

Rear suspension:
Some more stuff, I'm sure you get the point.

Brakes:
Visual pad thickness check and rough rule-of-thumb for caliper thickness (ie, is the width of a dime/nickle/quarter)


Does that make sense? Does it already exist somewhere
 
[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] Any chance we might get that how to on flushing the brake fluid you mentioned in the maintenance intervals post? I'm coming up on 60k and it looks like I might be due.
 
Hmmm.. I was wondering if anyone has done a "How-to" on converting a 04 STi Power Steering to the 15 WRX Electric Power Steering... I'm only asking because 1. I have a leak and I can't find it and 2. My wife's 15 WRX is a steering response beast....
 
That'll probably be a waste of time. Just do a 15 STi rack, as that is definitely possible. There are a number of builds already of this (including mine) and their is a pretty good how to for it on NASTYSOCK
 
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