Silver Bullet 2004 WRX STI

lol


That's my daughter she's got a few years before I need to worry about that.

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Ha ha I thought that too but mine is only 3 and it's her car. She tells me to go slow and don't break it anymore


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Ha ha I thought that too but mine is only 3 and it's her car. She tells me to go slow and don't break it anymore


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lol I can relate but mine calls it a race car and tells me to go faster. Also she refuses to ride in mommies car if mom/dad are both driving. Can't wait to teach her how to properly drive it when the time comes in 10 years lol


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Mine used to say go fast but then I told my wife that George said I was hard on my car and what does she decide to do? Tell my 3 year old that if daddy goes fast the car will break. Now I have a mini wife in the back seat. ha ha


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Mine used to say go fast but then I told my wife that George said I was hard on my car and what does she decide to do? Tell my 3 year old that if daddy goes fast the car will break. Now I have a mini wife in the back seat. ha ha


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Lol



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IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Mine used to say go fast but then I told my wife that George said I was hard on my car and what does she decide to do? Tell my 3 year old that if daddy goes fast the car will break. Now I have a mini wife in the back seat. ha ha


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Now that is funny. ?

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So been a while since i updated this thread. Where to start. Car for a while has been running great until about two weeks ago on my way home doing 90 on the freeway with about 5 lbs of boost. Car started to run like crap CEL started to flash then went sold pretty fast. As soon as the CEL came on I let off the throttle pulled over and checked the CEL. Turns out Cylinder #1 was misfiring. Figured, ok i am about 10 min from home if i go slow, i should be fine just keep off the boost and keep engine load minimal. So slow I went. Got home parked it and have not touched it for the past few weeks till this last Sunday.
Son graduated High School and work/getting house ready for people to come over, 90+ people, took all my time. Party was great and had a blast having all the family over. Spent evening on Saturday cleaning up and then most of the day Sunday laying in my hammock in the backyard resting. Come Sunday about 4PM [MENTION=6318]Rob_wrx_cars[/MENTION] came by to hang out and we took a look at the car. Started her up and shut it right back down. First though was it was acting like there was no fuel on cylinder #1 . So broke out the fuel pressure test kit and seen that the car barely had 20 psi at idle. Shut the car back down and pulled the fuel pump to check resistance etc. Found that the fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel pump had a slight rupture in it causing me to lose fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel line check the pressure, and now it seems ok. start the car and it seems to be running better but not right. Pull the plug on #1 and do compression test. Find that Cylinder 1 has 0 psi and Cylinder 2 has 90 PSI. This is were I am currently at with the car. Best case is head gasket, worse case piston/rings etc. That being said i ordered a leak down tester, which should arrive tomorrow, and will do a complete leak down /compression test on the motor to get a better idea of what type of battle i am facing. Will update this thread as I have additional information.
 
So been a while since i updated this thread. Where to start. Car for a while has been running great until about two weeks ago on my way home doing 90 on the freeway with about 5 lbs of boost. Car started to run like crap CEL started to flash then went sold pretty fast. As soon as the CEL came on I let off the throttle pulled over and checked the CEL. Turns out Cylinder #1 was misfiring. Figured, ok i am about 10 min from home if i go slow, i should be fine just keep off the boost and keep engine load minimal. So slow I went. Got home parked it and have not touched it for the past few weeks till this last Sunday.
Son graduated High School and work/getting house ready for people to come over, 90+ people, took all my time. Party was great and had a blast having all the family over. Spent evening on Saturday cleaning up and then most of the day Sunday laying in my hammock in the backyard resting. Come Sunday about 4PM [MENTION=6318]Rob_wrx_cars[/MENTION] came by to hang out and we took a look at the car. Started her up and shut it right back down. First though was it was acting like there was no fuel on cylinder #1 . So broke out the fuel pressure test kit and seen that the car barely had 20 psi at idle. Shut the car back down and pulled the fuel pump to check resistance etc. Found that the fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel pump had a slight rupture in it causing me to lose fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel line check the pressure, and now it seems ok. start the car and it seems to be running better but not right. Pull the plug on #1 and do compression test. Find that Cylinder 1 has 0 psi and Cylinder 2 has 90 PSI. This is were I am currently at with the car. Best case is head gasket, worse case piston/rings etc. That being said i ordered a leak down tester, which should arrive tomorrow, and will do a complete leak down /compression test on the motor to get a better idea of what type of battle i am facing. Will update this thread as I have additional information.
Blah good luck on the diagnostics bud I hope it's just a head gasket that's the issue.

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So time for an update. Shortly after last post I found out that my issues were worse than initially expected. Did a leak-down test on all cylinders and found that cyl 1 and cyl 4 have bent valves. intake valves on cyl 4 and exhaust on cyl 1. Failure was tracked down to a faulty tensioner on tbelt. Long story short decided to take a break from the car and work on the house for a bit. Well my entire summer has slipped by and now i want to start getting her back to a running state. Especially since i finally got a e-85 station here in town. That being said I need some advice.. what vlaves to go with. Currently have Manley I beam rods, Manley Turbo Tuff pistons oem crank and oem block. Additionally have King Race bearings on rods/mains.

I am thinking of going with Brian crower or Manley valves but not sure which ones to go with yet. Also duel spring or single spring. Right now i plan to keep oem cams because its outside of budget to get 272 cams just yet and its my daily.
@HolyCrapItsFast, @Alin, @IGOTASTi [MENTION=2822]Doppelganger[/MENTION], what do y'all think and what questions should i be asking and who should i be asking them. This is my first time dealing with valve train on Subaru's and theres just too much conflicting information all over the place, and would prefer advice from those that I trust. Thanks in advance for any helpfully information that y'all can provide. o


Would be nice to be able to rev out to 8k rpm also, but with stock cams its not gonna be effective at all. But since i am doing the valve train anyway why not prep it so i don't have to pull motor apart again.

Thanks in advance as always.
 
So time for an update. Shortly after last post I found out that my issues were worse than initially expected. Did a leak-down test on all cylinders and found that cyl 1 and cyl 4 have bent valves. intake valves on cyl 4 and exhaust on cyl 1. Failure was tracked down to a faulty tensioner on tbelt. Long story short decided to take a break from the car and work on the house for a bit. Well my entire summer has slipped by and now i want to start getting her back to a running state. Especially since i finally got a e-85 station here in town. That being said I need some advice.. what vlaves to go with. Currently have Manley I beam rods, Manley Turbo Tuff pistons oem crank and oem block. Additionally have King Race bearings on rods/mains.

I am thinking of going with Brian crower or Manley valves but not sure which ones to go with yet. Also duel spring or single spring. Right now i plan to keep oem cams because its outside of budget to get 272 cams just yet and its my daily.
@HolyCrapItsFast, @Alin, @IGOTASTi [MENTION=2822]Doppelganger[/MENTION], what do y'all think and what questions should i be asking and who should i be asking them. This is my first time dealing with valve train on Subaru's and theres just too much conflicting information all over the place, and would prefer advice from those that I trust. Thanks in advance for any helpfully information that y'all can provide. o


Would be nice to be able to rev out to 8k rpm also, but with stock cams its not gonna be effective at all. But since i am doing the valve train anyway why not prep it so i don't have to pull motor apart again.

Thanks in advance as always.
Sorry to hear about your bent valves bro. I know George has a place he takes his heads to get redone so he probably will chime in. From my personal experience Dave from headgames motor works spent some time thru email and a good 30 minutes talking to me over the phone about my build goals.

The main thing that I did different then most was I went with the stainless steel retainers over the titanium since my cars goal is for a reliable fun daily driver that I can take on road trips. The research I did makes it sound like titanium retainers have more maintenance and don't last as long as stainless but they are lighter which would be better for the higher red line you might be going with.

The only other feedback I would give to you is I wish I had the third nut syndrome I currently have with porting and polishing before I sent my heads off to be redone. If I did I probably would have ported the intake and exhaust runners and openings and left the bowl blending and valve job to the pros.

I know I'll probably end up building my second motor and head set for high reving so I see a long rod motor and titanium springs with cams in the far future after I buy my house.

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Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I can't help since I don't have knowledge on internals. Best bet would be:
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] George and RAD

The others that come to mind are: [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] [MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] [MENTION=1868]Boogieman98[/MENTION] [MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] [MENTION=1069]35r[/MENTION]
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Shitttt... Idk much about the heads and valvetrain. Maybe [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] could offer some advice.
 
Nice plate it reminds me of my old cali muscle cars I had to get rid of when I moved.

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Thanks hopefully they will be put to use soon as the engine for that beast has been sitting for over a year now :(. Good news those is I am shaving rotating mass on the engine assembly. Light weight flywheel, crank and pull. I haven?t added it up but almost 20lbs in reduction for rotational mass. Should make it good for the twisties and autocross.


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Thanks hopefully they will be put to use soon as the engine for that beast has been sitting for over a year now :(. Good news those is I am shaving rotating mass on the engine assembly. Light weight flywheel, crank and pull. I haven?t added it up but almost 20lbs in reduction for rotational mass. Should make it good for the twisties and autocross.


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Nice I'm sure it will make a difference.
I have a act street light flywheel and grim speed crank pulley for my build as well and am hoping it makes a big difference.

I know the flywheel alone made a huge difference and I bounced the rev limiter on the first WOT pull I did lol.

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Small update

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[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] sent you a email.


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