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No way.... Seriously!!!?
I dont want to rule it out either but wtf....
It sucks but it does happen but rewarding when you find the person that did it.
Blowin' Them Tires Right Off!
- Thread starter OldManSTI
- Start date
It sucks but it does happen but rewarding when you find the person that did it.
TK-421
New member
[MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] wait till you see my "parts department" I stock wheel studs like Walmart does white sandwich bread. [MENTION=4899]OldManSTI[/MENTION] not really sure what it is, but I can't even begin to tell you what in the hell is wrong with subarus wheel stud manufacturer but, when I had my 04 never had an issue with the wheel studs, my 13 I had, that's a whole different story. I snapped 3 of them before the Vehicle hit 4000 miles.
One of the reasons I didn't do a how to write up on wheel studs is because, you need to have some tools that your normal weekend warrior wouldn't have. Some people think you can just hammer the old stud out and then pull a new one in by using a bunch of washers and an open ended nut with an Impact Wrench, but that puts unnecessary stress on the wheel bearing. The proper way to do it is to remove the entire spindle and use a press. Which is a VERY long and drawn out process and most folks don't have a shop press in their garage at home.
One of the reasons I didn't do a how to write up on wheel studs is because, you need to have some tools that your normal weekend warrior wouldn't have. Some people think you can just hammer the old stud out and then pull a new one in by using a bunch of washers and an open ended nut with an Impact Wrench, but that puts unnecessary stress on the wheel bearing. The proper way to do it is to remove the entire spindle and use a press. Which is a VERY long and drawn out process and most folks don't have a shop press in their garage at home.
TK-421
New member
It appears to be so, I've even seen this problem on base model impreza's of this year range. I have no flipping idea why the build quality of newer subarus seems to lack in very important areas like the drive wheels and the engine internals. Just blows my mind that they went from solid almost bulletproof cars to these problems
Nope, I'm blessed that I can park her in a garage, so it's unlikely someone loosened them. There are a lot of dirtbags out there, though, so I don't know that I'd rule it out completely.
Is there a way to test if the lugs are out of spec? I was afraid [MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] that I'd need a press, and that's something I'm not going to invest in at this juncture, so if there's a way to test them before throwing the money at a shop I'd like to do that first.
Uh, sounds like you need to make a shopping list of things I need to check on my GR! :-o
1. Lugs
2. Brake Lines
3. ...
TK-421
New member
It's kind of a grey area bud, they either work or they don't. Usually a good idea to get a good set of aftermarket lugs anyways, the OEM Subaru lugs are used throughout the entire vehicle range. So lug nuts from an impreza will be the same as they are on your STi.
Honestly I wish that Subaru used Mag Style Lug Nuts.
TK-421
New member
There is brake line recall for the newer ones the GV body style. Not really sure if yours is an affected year. If it is you should be able to take it to the dealer and they will replace the affected lines with the updated ones.
To change your studs you dont need any special tools or a press. I will work on a write up and a video. It is very easy i just did it two weeks ago
TK-421
New member
I wouldn't even attempt that, that's bad information to give out. You never want to do a write up or a video on a back alley way to do things. Secondly I know for a fact that [MENTION=1]IGOTASTi.COM[/MENTION] doesn't want poor quality install write ups. As a professional I am telling you that YOU absolutely need special tools and equipment to properly install wheel studs WITHOUT causing possible damage to the wheel bearing. To pull a stud through with just washers and a open ended nut is not only a good way to cause unneeded stress on the bearing, but it also stretches the threads on the wheel stud in the opposite direction that you want them to go. Which in turn can cause cross threading. I've been doing this long enough to say that I've seen it happen before, not only from first hand experience but from seeing it happen with customer cars when someone tries to take the easy way out. So please do not tell someone that it's easy and that you'll do a write up on it, unless it's either 1 the way the service manual would say to do it, or 2 it's a method employed in a workshop/dealership/certified repair shop. Anytime I have a customer tell me he pulled his wheel studs through using that method I cringe knowing that the strength of not only the wheel bearing is now compromised, but so is the wheel stud.
Tk-421 not to argue but i dont know how i caused any stress on the wheel bearing or the ARP wheel studs. And if you did not want to use a socket and a open ended steel lug nut you could always rent the tool needed to press the studs from your local Auto parts store.
TK-421
New member
Rule 1 never argue with a mechanic or technician, sooner or later your going to realize it's like wrestling a pig in the mud, we really like it.
When ever you "pull" a wheel stud through with a set of washers and a open ended nut, your not only pulling the stud, your pulling the hub. Which in turn causes a pulling stress load in that one particular area of the wheel bearing. When that stress is applied by the torque of pulling the fastener through it causes the hub assembly to essentially "pinch" the affected section of the wheel bearing. When you go around and do all the studs this way it pulls on each of the five areas in a fashion that will cause the inner race to become out of round. So your "easy" way of doing it will end up being a wheel bearing or wheel hub replacement in as short as a few months time or a few years time. This is a safety issue more than anything, this is what your wheels bolt to. And if your installing ARP studs this way, then I'm sorry you've been doing it completely wrong this entire time. And you've also be stretching your threads on those ARP studs the wrong way.
Well again I am not trying to argue with you or anyone else. The only way we all learn is from our mistakes and having professionals like you or HolyCrapitsfast explain why we did it wrong. There is a lot of bad information out there so having a place like this and people like you to explain why it bad is great.
I did my studs myself but did not do it using a open ended lug nut. I used a 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator to install the studs. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
I removed the caliper, the rotor, and then loosened the stock wheel studs with a hammer. Carefully I might add. I then loosed the four bolts on the back to slide out the hub. Then I was able to slide out the old wheel studs and then slide in the ARP's I then used the 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator to press the studs back in. I then tightened the 4 bolts on the back side and then reassembled the rest of the front. The back was the exact same except I had to push off the dust shield. Again no weight was but on the hub or anything. I did not see anyone else doing it exactly like I did it. Actually I couldn't find any videos or instruction on how to do it on any 08+. I agree that using a bunch of washers to pull the ARP wheel stud is not ideal and absolutely off the table for stock replacements.
I did my studs myself but did not do it using a open ended lug nut. I used a 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator to install the studs. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
I removed the caliper, the rotor, and then loosened the stock wheel studs with a hammer. Carefully I might add. I then loosed the four bolts on the back to slide out the hub. Then I was able to slide out the old wheel studs and then slide in the ARP's I then used the 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator to press the studs back in. I then tightened the 4 bolts on the back side and then reassembled the rest of the front. The back was the exact same except I had to push off the dust shield. Again no weight was but on the hub or anything. I did not see anyone else doing it exactly like I did it. Actually I couldn't find any videos or instruction on how to do it on any 08+. I agree that using a bunch of washers to pull the ARP wheel stud is not ideal and absolutely off the table for stock replacements.
Here is a link to a guy who did it almost like I did it
http://blog.tacti.info/2012/09/17/changing-wheel-studs/
http://blog.tacti.info/2012/09/17/changing-wheel-studs/
TK-421
New member
Congrats, that is one way to properly press them in. But see from your post above when you said you didn't need a press, you insinuated that you were attempting the job by the washer and open ended nut method. The way you went about it is technically pressing them in. And a ball joint separator is technically listed as a suspension specialty tool, the last time I looked at MAC catalog it was listed as that. So technically you do need special tools. And to unbolt the caliper and Hub from the car isn't necessarily an "easy" job. Some might find that intimidating.
As far as the link, cool. But does it mean that's the way the service manual says to do it? Or the way factory subaru technicians do it? Nope not at all. The quality of the part installed is only as good as the install job itself. If the install procedure is "unorthodox" in nature, then the quality of that part may not be as high. I've seen plenty of folks out there but quality parts and install them the way their buddy did, or because so and so with 30 million posts on such and such forum who's their local IT tech support guy did it that way and had zero issues. I've had some indepth conversations with [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] about this, since he is doing everything he can to learn from me.
Working on your car is fun, it's instant gratification. But that can all be thrown right out the window, if the job is preformed improperly. It's generally how you have people out their say they have had a bad experience with such and such car.
And on a side note, this isn't me arguing. If I was arguing truly, my words would be less than pleasant. I'm just very well known for being upfront, honest and I speak my mind. If that in anyway seems like I was arguing back? Then lmao you haven't seen anything yet my friend.
I didnt remove the hub bolt only the four bolts on the back of the assembly. Note sure what that is called. I have a hard time explaining myself that is why I wanted to do a quick video showing what I was speaking about. Also when I think press I think of
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
I also think of a specialty tool as one that is to expensive for the average weekend worry to own. If I did a video quickly showing what I did could you point out what I might have done that could have damaged any part of my car?
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
I also think of a specialty tool as one that is to expensive for the average weekend worry to own. If I did a video quickly showing what I did could you point out what I might have done that could have damaged any part of my car?
TK-421
New member
Sure could, and doesn't have to be a video you could take pictures as well.
As far as a press, yes that's what most people think is a press, but there are all kinds, on vehicle, off vehicle, bench style, manual style, ones that you use an air gun with, ones that are actual air powered.
And that's been a common misconception for years now about specialty tools. No not all specialty tools are expensive. Take a pick tool or magnet for instance. That's a specialty tool. It only specializes in picking things up in hard to reach places, or holding things. And will only cost you about 5 bucks for a decent one. Not all specialty stuff is expensive.
Ok I will take some pictures and give a better explanation of what I did. I have to take apart my entire brake system anyway this week and weekend so I will be able to do this easily. Maybe the way I did it would be an acceptable way of doing it if taking it in is not an option.
TK-421
New member
Well from what you explained to me, your a little more advanced than your average weekend warrior and from what you described already, seems like your procedure was along the lines of most independent repair shop guidelines. You at least took the back side of the hub assembly apart instead of leaving the axle nut and hub assembly fully bolted together and just pulling the stud through with a load of washers and a open ended nut.
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