Ok so I have a 2002 WRX that I have had for almost 7 years. I have gone through a couple different setups with the car in terms of motor variations. I bought a used 2005 STi EJ25 shortblock from a guy awhile back that has been sitting in my garage. I am torn between getting it built at a shop which I have 2 in mind or just buy a Ralliteck block for my power needs. I am wanting 400whp. I know for a fact I will need to take my WRX heads to a shop to get either porting done or just get a real good valve job done with some 268or 272 cams. I have been searching around at assembled blocks and called a few places to build my block. I would like to keep my whole build around $5000.00. I still need to buy water and oil pumps, gates timing belt kit with idlers, oil pickup, whole engine gasket kit and a few tiny things I can't think of. I guess my question would be what would be more reliable (buy a prebuilt Ralliteck block or get mine built) also what I should be doing with my heads to get them to flow right with the STi block since I am doing a hybrid build. I will be using a Precision 5031 to break the motor in and then I would like to step my game up to a GT3071R. I would like some feedback on your suggestions. I appreciate it guys!
Build engine or buy built block?
- Thread starter emsmap
- Start date
We have done the hybrid build in the past. You have the block already, I would say build that one. With a good machine shop and builder this would be just as reliable as a already built set-up. This way you choose your components to a complete science. Below are my suggestions on complete engine build others may have their own ideas and you may also these are just suggestions based on your goals as well as budget set above:
Use block you have
Have it honed/bored with torque plate
have heads and block decked to match for good mating surface
Use ACL Race Bearings for Main and Rod Bearings
Far as Pistons go there are many good ones for this wiseco, cp, and manley. I have used all three and have great success with them all
Connecting Rods a set of manly turbo tuff rods will ensure great durability for your hp level and if you decide to ever change your set up. You can get away with eagle and K1 Tech. rods as well but they are not rated as high as the turbo tuff rods.
ARP L19 head studs. Dont get the standard head studs, they are not as durable
.051" thick head gaskets are recommend for the hybrid builds like this. Cometic has these available.
Far as the head goes port and polish your head leaving the intake side slightly rough to allow atomization but make the exhaust nice and smooth.
upgrade your valves 1mm oversized valves to allow it to flow, Brian Crower Valves with Manley springs and retainers work great and cut down cost versus other valve brands.
Perform the tumbler delete and port out the manifold.
far as cams go GSC Power Division Cams are great! The Stage 1s are rated for up to 500hp which is with in your requirements but you may want to consider stage 2s
During this build remember your fuel set-up will make a difference as well. So plan out your injectors, fuel pump, and decision of fuel type you plan to run.
Anything else we can help with please don't hesitate to ask. Hope this was all helpful
Use block you have
Have it honed/bored with torque plate
have heads and block decked to match for good mating surface
Use ACL Race Bearings for Main and Rod Bearings
Far as Pistons go there are many good ones for this wiseco, cp, and manley. I have used all three and have great success with them all
Connecting Rods a set of manly turbo tuff rods will ensure great durability for your hp level and if you decide to ever change your set up. You can get away with eagle and K1 Tech. rods as well but they are not rated as high as the turbo tuff rods.
ARP L19 head studs. Dont get the standard head studs, they are not as durable
.051" thick head gaskets are recommend for the hybrid builds like this. Cometic has these available.
Far as the head goes port and polish your head leaving the intake side slightly rough to allow atomization but make the exhaust nice and smooth.
upgrade your valves 1mm oversized valves to allow it to flow, Brian Crower Valves with Manley springs and retainers work great and cut down cost versus other valve brands.
Perform the tumbler delete and port out the manifold.
far as cams go GSC Power Division Cams are great! The Stage 1s are rated for up to 500hp which is with in your requirements but you may want to consider stage 2s
During this build remember your fuel set-up will make a difference as well. So plan out your injectors, fuel pump, and decision of fuel type you plan to run.
Anything else we can help with please don't hesitate to ask. Hope this was all helpful
Thanks so much for the informative post. I have been reading about the "port match" for the WRX heads performed by Equilibrium tuning out in California. They port match WRX heads so that they will match the STi block so that I would not have to run a thicker headgasket and my heads will flow the same as STi heads. This is $400 to perform. I also am not looking to rev past 7500 rpms so would I be ok to run stock STi cams? I really want some low and mid range torque. I want a reliable 400whp and not be risking any danger. Jermaine at TurboXS in Gaithersburg will be tuning my car again. Im still looking at built shortblock as well as getting quotes for my EJ25 to be built. I still need to order oil and water pumps. Also oil pickup. Do you know if the WRX oil pan bolts to the STi block? Im assuming it does. Thanks so much!
I agree that cylinder matching is the best way! The guys I have done this build for didnt want to spend that money though which made me suggest what I did. Far as the water pump goes just get the gates timing kit that includes the racing timing belt, all the pulleys and the water pump, much simpler, save some cash from piecing it together. As Fuji was trying to state that when building sometimes cheaper isnt always better. Certain brand parts are better than others and can cause the cost to go up. When looking for 400whp you want to ensure you are building with good parts so you dont lower the dependability factor.
Thank you all so much for the details. As of now I am still running my Precision 5031 oil cooled turbo. Im still on the good ole EJ205 right now but I know I will blow it up sooner or later so that is why I want to build my EJ25 block up and my extra set of heads so I can just bolt it all up to be ready to drop in when my EJ205 goes. Im going to call Equilibrium tuning in California to get a quote for my port matching. Does anyone else do that around on the east coast of you all know of?
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Yeah i hear element is quite good. They've got a mean car i've seen at the track. But there are quite a few shops in the DC metro area that have great reputations. Element, IAG, Antrewtech, Agile Automotive off the top of my head. Up north there's EFI. Lots of good places here. Most will do a good job of not BSing you and point you in the right direction if they can't do the services you're asking. Where on the east coast are you?
Will do! However, I live about 20 minutes from CNC Engine Dynamics. Ive been to their shop but just not sure on what to do. The shortblock is easy for me to decide but the heads are giving me issues on who will work on them. CNC told me that they didn't see a reason on why I would port match my heads to the STi block. I tryed to explain it to them and he said hes never heard of it. Its $400.00 for Equilibrium to do the heads in California. That is just porting though and nothing else. It would be nice to see if Andrewtech knows a place closer that will just build them all up at once. I don't have a problem putting them together but if a shop will put them all together while they are done porting them, then thats just one less step.
