GR Building a fuel system. Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

Ghostwhite

New member
Moving this over from my garage


I ordered the car January 9th, 2012 without options. The car sat in Miles City, Montana for two weeks with another Sti ordered the day after. The shipping company wanted to wait for a truck load of cars to haul to Grand Forks, ND Not Likely!!! After a few calls to SOA and my dealer they tracked it down in MT and lit a fire under the a** of the shipping company.

I picked it up in a blizzard and hap-hazardly drove it 90 miles in whiteout conditions and glare ice after dark to get it home. I learned how horrible summer tires are in the winter! I ordered a Cobb AP shortly after and flashed Stage 1 after about 200 miles, got RallyArmor mudflaps and WeatherTech Floormats as well. I installed a Viper Security system with Autostart outside my apartment in the cold after a few weeks. I ordered and installed a Cobb Short Throw and Kartboy shifter bushings after about 300 miles.

In the spring I attended a Trackday at Motorsports Park Hasting in Hastings, Nebraska with my local chapter of SCCA. I did great, learned how the car reacted on track and burned up the stock tires in one day. At 3300 miles they were still fresh that morning but well past done at the end of the day. My only concern throughout the day was hitting fuel cut with more than a quarter tank of gas onboard. I thought it was the rev limiter at first but hit it again at low RPM and ended my session for some fuel.

I upgraded to 265-40-18 Star Specs and was loving life! I attended my first auto-x with the car in Minot, ND and ranked 4th overall in a field of about 35 cars. Car understeered like crazy but I beat out a few highly modified Sti. Then on June 2nd I competed in my second auto-x in the car finishing 3rd or 4th again in a field of 30-40 cars. Throughout the day I started to notice a little bit of smoke under load and on start-up between runs, I knew my fate was nearly sealed at just short of 4500 miles. After Buck runs I went to my workplace to pick up my boss after he put his car away(nice C6 Z06) and headed to his place. On the way there the car started to lose power above 2000 RPM and logged a whole ton of knock. I took it home, cleaned out the intercooler and intake and installed a Cusco Catch can. Life was better for a week when I left for another auto-x competition 160 miles away. After cruising on the highway it wouldn't accelerate with any sense of purpose and was knocking bad. I limped it to my dads near the auto-x event and trailered it home after the event.

I knew what had happened and decided to call Rallispec to talk about a Street Spec Short Block. I could save some money by reusing my current block if it was within spec so I tore it down at work(Polaris Dealer) to a short block and sent it off to New Jersey.

After tearing the stock motor down to a shortblock I sent it off to New Jersey. The cleaned it up, check clearances and did a hone and deglaze on the cylinders before installing Cosworth pistons, Manley H-beam rods and ACL race bearings before assembling and sending it back my way. It was received by Rallispec and on its way back in less than 4 days! I received it back and started putting everything back together. I upgraded to ARP headstuds, a Moroso Oil pickup tube, deleted the air pump, and inspected and cleaned the oil pump and water pump. Only part that gave me problems was not having a clutch alignment tool and being impatient. It wasn't the easiest way of getting the engine and trans back together but I got it.

Since then I have been babying it, logging a lot and waiting till I can have it tuned. Last week I ordered a ZT-2 wideband with LCD display and plan on install the display in the factory clock location. I also have a Invidia catless DP coming to get to stage 2 as I begin the tuning process. I will hopefully have the guys here have a look at my stage 2 map to make some adjustments so that I can be safe to start with. I want to start learning how to tune on my own as I have been coming through the recommended tutorials and will be asking questions as I go in the Premium resources section.(One the greatest rewards to becoming a Premium member!!!!)

I have a load of Whiteline bushings sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.






I have my invidia dp finally, gotta get the bung welded on as the extra bung is only 3.5 inches from the turbo flange. Then onward with the zeitronix install






Installed downpipe last night on jackstands in the garage, pretty painful. One of the downpipe to turbo bolts was seized even after soaking with PB. Tried cutting with no lick so ended up cranking on it until it snapped.

After that everything went better. Couldn't find a metric shoulder bolt locally so ended up with one standard bolt on reassembly. My shot in the dark wideband bung location worked out ok and the angle will work without hitting the firewall.

Flashed acn stage 2 and test drive with no leaks! Going to get my zt-2 brain wired in tomorrow as I will be work 8am to 10pm today.
 
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Ghostwhite

New member
I need some recommendations on Fuel setup. I have the routing figured out as far as TGV deletes, lines, regulator(sorta) and rails but I am looking for advice on Injectors and fuel pump.

I plan to run E-85 with the stock turbo for now and upgrade to a larger stock location turbo later on, like an ATP GT3071R. I am thinking 1000cc-1300cc injectors with a 300 lph pump. Any suggestions or brand preferences? Are the Deatschwerks pump/injector combos any good?

I have a catless DP with Cobb Stg 2, I am gonna try an E-tune from around here soon after I get my ZT-2 hooked up. After my fuel upgrades I am going for a protune hopefully at RS motors in Burnsville, MN
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey

Ghostwhite

New member
Looks like I am going to do the DW 300lph pump or the Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump. I have also plan to pair this with an agency power fuel rail kit unless someone can convince me otherwise.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Disaster strikes! Developed a major oil leak on the highway, oil pressure light in the dash started flickering and I shut her down and pulled over. Oil everywhere under the motor and down both sides of the car but it seems like most of it is on the passenger side near the bottom of the timing belt cover. I am thinking cam seal but I won't know until I can tear into it, it is sitting out back at my work.

Anyone have any ideas as to what could be blowing this much oil around the passenger side bottom of motor? Turbo feed line looks clean.
 

toomes

New member
Absolutely run FIC. I have had multiple sets personally and never had a bad experience. Both the Aeromotive or Tomei FPRs are extremely easy to setup and very reliable.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
IIRC the oil pressure light only comes on at a STUPID LOW pressure, something like 2psi. I hope it wasn't too late for the motor, but that's definitely something you want to check.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Re: Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

Yeah 2.1 psi seems RIDICULOUS for a useful warning. I'm guessing head gasket or avcs line but we'll see.

If i cant find anything I've been Thinking about filling it with oil and turning it over to see what comes out.
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
Yeah 2.1 psi seems RIDICULOUS for a useful warning. I'm guessing head gasket or avcs line but we'll see.

If i cant find anything I've been Thinking about filling it with oil and turning it over to see what comes out.

Oil leaks a pain to find.

I would do exactly that. Fill it with oil and start it. See where she is pouring it out at.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Re: Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

Looks like it's a cam seal after all, drivers side exhaust. Gonna replace both on that side and the timing belt is drenched so that is getting new too.

Ordered belt and company 23 sprocket tool, drove 160 miles one way to subie dealer for the two seals. Eating at Hooters and heading back to do the seals.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Re: Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

The motor is built, when I put the seal in I didn't use the best tool..... PVC this time though
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Re: Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

Well, cam seal popped out completely. Got the new one pounded in and waiting on a timing belt, AC belt(hate stretch-fit) and cam sprocket tool.

Sure hope this one will stay in!
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Blown cam seal

I have been reading around the web about what may have happened and ran across someone with a WRX that had his PCV freeze up in the cold and pop a cam seal. The day this happened to me it was nearly -15*F outside. I have Moroso Dual Catch-Cans and am now worried that was my issue as well. I was on the highway for around 2 hours non-stop in -10* weather when my seal popped.

If it was my pcv that was frozen, what are my options for preventing this in the future? I drive a lot in the severe cold.
 
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Ghostwhite

New member
Re: Blown cam seal Ghostwhite's 2012 DGM Hatch

All cam seals replaced along with the timing belt and stretch AC belt.

Installed my zeitronix wideband as well as an oil pressure gauge. The afr stays maxed at 21 as I believe the cable was damaged going through the firewall, new cable to be ordered tomorrow.

I should have a grand worth of tuition excess coming around the end of January which should fund fuel upgrades if nothing personal comes up.
 

Ghostwhite

New member
Ok guys, I am starting to put a list together of fuel system components and need some advice. I am adding a Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Lines, Fuel Rails, Injectors and a pump.

My list so far is:
Undecided FPR and unknown lines from FPR to feed and return lines near firewall. (help)
Agency Power rails and lines from FPR to Rails(kit PN AP-GRB-120)
Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc injectors PN IS175-1100H
Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Pump 340 lph

Any help on a good(and good priced) FPR and what lines I need to fit it.

I may as well pick up an EBC before my E85 tune.
 
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