Need help with Stoptech sport kit!

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Intro: I bought the sport kit at Rallysportdirect.com for my 2012 STi, car has 44,500 miles and this was replacing the original brake lines, pads, rotors. As usual the purchasing experience was a breeze, big thanks to RSD. The kit includes SS Brake lines F/R, Stoptech street performance pads F/R, and stoptech's slotted rotors F/R.

The Problem: Besides shearing the rear caliper bolts and having them seize in the caliper... all was good after a trip to Innovative Tuning. After that ordeal was sorted out I bled all 4 corners, twice, but my brake pedal still goes to the floor when i'm braking. If i pump the brakes 4-5 times the pedal gets really stiff, but the first couple times the brake pedal is engaged it goes straight to the floor. Brake fluid is at the max level and all the lines/connections are checked. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.

[MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] don't you have this?

The only thing this could be is that there is still air in the line somewhere or there is a leak that you have overlooked.

How are you bleeding the system?

i.e. Someone pumps the brakes till hard then holds the peddle to the floor... then, while peddle is held to the floor, loosen the bleeder till fluid stops flowing... then tighten the bleeder... then release the peddle... pump and repeat.

Another effective method is to use a hand pump at the bleeder.

We were bleeding them with one person in the car and one working the bleeder valve. When I engage the break and there is a steady stream of fluid coming from the valve on all 4 corners (squirting over the wheel studs and onto the caliper) All the SS line to brakes we checked and the hard lines to SS also checked. And like i said, it was like this after the first bleed so we re-bled just to be sure.

Bleed your brakes as holy suggested. You could also get a motive power bleeder. Makes life easy.
You undoubtedly have let air into the system or you have a leak. If you hook up some clear tubing to the bleed screws and drain that into a pan, you can see all of the little air bubbles. This can take some time to get out.
I can recall spending more than a few minutes at each caliper, especially the rears, to clear all of the air.
Another thing us to bleed the brakes from the farthest caliper from the reservoir around to the closest last.

Oh, and the brembos have two bleeder screws on the calipers. Bleed the inside first and the outside. But you gotta do both

As spamby said, make sure you bleed both nipples per caliper.

But, at any point in the bleeding process did you let the brake fluid reservoir go empty? I recall a discussion about how that can be worse than just letting air into the system--that it would require removing the master cylinder, or something like that, to fix the issue.

Spamby said:

Oh, and the brembos have two bleeder screws on the calipers. Bleed the inside first and the outside. But you gotta do both

Click to expand...

This.. I did not do this. Noticed them when they were off the car, but didn't bleed them

Bled them again alone with one of those $40 harbor freight bleeder tools, and the pedal feel is much better, I even went for a drive. But in my car, bleeding inside/outside on the rear, and only outside on the fronts seemed to work better. Regardless, i think i need to bleed them again and

Sounds like your on the right track. Do both screws on each caliper.
Let us know how she turns out.