Correct makes it easier to pull/install o2 sensor on headers
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Silver Bullet 2004 WRX STI
- Thread starter Raven32
- Start date
Correct makes it easier to pull/install o2 sensor on headers
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ok now that I am on computer let me update y'all....
First of all she is running registered, insured and back on the road again. Long trail to get here but couldn't be happier now that she is alive again. Current miles on new motor is 65.4 as of coming back from lunch today...
... when I first put motor back in car was running like crap.. Back fires, would not go above 1500 rpm, air all over the place, and def not drivable. Took some time to hunt down the issues. First issue was two intake bolts were not seated all the way down upon closer inspection found the threads in the head to no be perfect. So got to work and drilled out the threads and helicoiled them. While I was at it I swapped back in the stock tgv's and injectors because the ones I had had a few small pin holes causing issues. Guess its time to save ups and get some new IAG TGV deletes. after all that the battery that had been sitting for two years decided to take a dump on me. Easy enough fix one new battery latter air was a lot better but still wouldn't go past 1500 rpm and was still backfiring. Fired up the laptop and started looking at the live data while at idle and came across this picture.
you should of seen my eyes when I seen this I was like WTF, and imeadieatly msged [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] for advice, on if this was even possible. Thankfully he confirmed that it was not and at most it was only able to advance 40*. However, while waiting for him to get back I I found that one AVCS was weeping oil near the electronics part..
So replaced both AVCS because if one fails other is not far behind. While I was at it I replaced both cam sensors and now she runs like a chap. Drove here to work today with no issues and plan to start data logging tonight.
So glad to have this awesome but some times pain in the ass car back on the road again..
First of all she is running registered, insured and back on the road again. Long trail to get here but couldn't be happier now that she is alive again. Current miles on new motor is 65.4 as of coming back from lunch today...
... when I first put motor back in car was running like crap.. Back fires, would not go above 1500 rpm, air all over the place, and def not drivable. Took some time to hunt down the issues. First issue was two intake bolts were not seated all the way down upon closer inspection found the threads in the head to no be perfect. So got to work and drilled out the threads and helicoiled them. While I was at it I swapped back in the stock tgv's and injectors because the ones I had had a few small pin holes causing issues. Guess its time to save ups and get some new IAG TGV deletes. after all that the battery that had been sitting for two years decided to take a dump on me. Easy enough fix one new battery latter air was a lot better but still wouldn't go past 1500 rpm and was still backfiring. Fired up the laptop and started looking at the live data while at idle and came across this picture.
you should of seen my eyes when I seen this I was like WTF, and imeadieatly msged [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] for advice, on if this was even possible. Thankfully he confirmed that it was not and at most it was only able to advance 40*. However, while waiting for him to get back I I found that one AVCS was weeping oil near the electronics part..
So replaced both AVCS because if one fails other is not far behind. While I was at it I replaced both cam sensors and now she runs like a chap. Drove here to work today with no issues and plan to start data logging tonight.
So glad to have this awesome but some times pain in the ass car back on the road again..
You are correct. The most rewarding things in life are often the biggest pains in the ass..
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Did you ever get yourself a set of TGV deletes, [MENTION=5388]Raven32[/MENTION]? The reason I ask is because I have a set of OEM TGVs off of my '04. Once I get everything finished on this build and am sure I don't have any problems with my TGV deletes, I can hook you up. Obviously you'd have to remove the guts, grind out the separator, PnP and so forth, but many people successfully do this all the time.
I don't know just yet what used OEM TGVs go for, but I would make you a fantastic deal.
I don't know just yet what used OEM TGVs go for, but I would make you a fantastic deal.
U_butthurt_sti
New member
Looking good!!!!!!
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Hate to say it but just been driving it since last build. Have 11,527.5 miles on new motor so far and no issues. Still have stock injectors on it and [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] tune for it on there. Planning to install id1000?s, 3? MAF, TGV?s, and a areomotive fuel pressure regulator in near future. Just need to get the FPR and some free time.
Although I did just weld in two 3? resonators to quiet down the exhaust recently.
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Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Wow, you're getting old if you have to QUIET down your car! Just kidding, of course. :lol:
Get us a video clip of the new sound! (Either a drive by or some warmed up revs.)
How much quieter did the two resonators make the sound?
Nothing wrong with driving and enjoying it like it is! Snap us some new pictures when you get a chance! :tup:
Get us a video clip of the new sound! (Either a drive by or some warmed up revs.)
How much quieter did the two resonators make the sound?
Nothing wrong with driving and enjoying it like it is! Snap us some new pictures when you get a chance! :tup:
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I don't know for certain, but I'd imagine that they aren't since you can find them in many different shapes and sizes.
Well pics/videos of the resonator are gonna have to wait.
Got some bad news as of two weeks ago was dropping a friend off in another city and engine started misfiring. Misfire was not bad but was enough for me to pull over and say yep not gonna drive it and risk it. Right as I pulled over check engine light came on as I turned key off. Like hand on key cel light up and turned key almost at same time. Called aaa and asked for flat bed. Hour and half later tow truck driver shows up.
Had issues with the tow truck driver but that?s another story. So get the car home go to bead and wait till I have time to look at it properly and pull codes etc.
next morning I pull codes and codes are misfire on #1 and lean. Leave car for two weeks till I could look at it last weekend. Pull lug and stick bore scope down into cyl and find the following.
Pulled motor and think I got pretty dam lucky I immediately shut down the engine when I did.
Pulled motor on Sunday and pulled heads and piston on #1
At this time my best guess is FPR failed and caused detonation in cylinder number one.
At this time heads are already at the shop being inspected. And era motive fuel pressure regulator has been ordered with AN lines to replace stock system and convert to parallel system.
Question I have is do I need to retain the original fuel dampeners in the fuel line or do I remove them with the aeromotive fuel pressure regulator.
@HolyCrapItsFast
@grinder32 [MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION]
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Got some bad news as of two weeks ago was dropping a friend off in another city and engine started misfiring. Misfire was not bad but was enough for me to pull over and say yep not gonna drive it and risk it. Right as I pulled over check engine light came on as I turned key off. Like hand on key cel light up and turned key almost at same time. Called aaa and asked for flat bed. Hour and half later tow truck driver shows up.
Had issues with the tow truck driver but that?s another story. So get the car home go to bead and wait till I have time to look at it properly and pull codes etc.
next morning I pull codes and codes are misfire on #1 and lean. Leave car for two weeks till I could look at it last weekend. Pull lug and stick bore scope down into cyl and find the following.
Pulled motor and think I got pretty dam lucky I immediately shut down the engine when I did.
Pulled motor on Sunday and pulled heads and piston on #1
At this time my best guess is FPR failed and caused detonation in cylinder number one.
At this time heads are already at the shop being inspected. And era motive fuel pressure regulator has been ordered with AN lines to replace stock system and convert to parallel system.
Question I have is do I need to retain the original fuel dampeners in the fuel line or do I remove them with the aeromotive fuel pressure regulator.
@HolyCrapItsFast
@grinder32 [MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION]
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Last edited:
Cylinder walls look good no scaring and still see the cross hatching from last hone. Really got lucky. Heads should be done today or tomorrow
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Eagleye
Tinkerer
From what I understand, the fuel damper is to reduce fuel pressure surges at high rpm and boost (when injectors are changing flow the most). An aftermarket FPR will handle this better than stock but not eliminate it. How much power are you putting down? I doubt this will be an issue unless you are over ~400whp. It will likely show up as a lean condition when at higher boost levels. You mentioned going to a parallel system, will you be running 2 fuel pumps? If so, I don't think you will have any problems even with a higher power application. The increased flow available will reduce the effects of the injector changes. Hope this helps.
one fuel pump, when I said parallel system I meant that I will be routing the fuel system like the picture below.
This should make both sides even with fuel and the FPR will regulate/dampen the fuel returning to the tank..
That being said I did a little research on what a Fuel Pulsation Dampner actually does and this is the best description I could find.
https://injector-rehab.com/shop/fpd.html
Shit man :doh: sorry to hear about this.
As for the dampeners. I really can't say 100%. No one could give me a straight answer, although a tech at FIC seemed to suggest that dampeners weren't necessary, so I removed mine. If you don't have an aftermarket FPR I would probably say to retain them. A good diaphram style FPR should smooth out any fuel system pulsations, negating the need for dampeners. Just my $0.02...
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Agreed.
The design of the rails can help as well. I?ve read that some companies transition from round to an ellipse to help smooth out the pulses. As I said in my last reply, I don?t see this being an issue unless you are making really big power. Even then it may depend on the specs of the FPR you are running.
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