Fork in the road

I'm wanting to learn how to tune and now I have a decision to make.. I have a V2 AP but I also have the ability to tune RR.. Starting out, which would be best to learn on?
Right now I'm running on a stage 2 OTS 91 octane map

About my car..
05 STi
fully build block
JE Pistons
Manley H beam connecting rods with rings
Clevite main and rod bearings
ARP headstuds

TGV Delete

Stage 1 Exedy clutch

Cobb TBE

Stock airbox K&N filter
Stock turbo
Stock injectors
Stock fuel pump

EDIT: I do have a Inovative AFR gauge for tuning installed.. ;-)


Thanks
-Jake
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Stick with the AP. Anything you learn can be directly translated to OpenSource. They are close enough to each other to where you can bounce from one to the other with out any learning curve as things relate to tables and parameters. The software itself is very different though and you would need time with both at some point.

You have allot of work ahead of you and I suggest learning and understanding the concepts of tuning and tuning practices before you even think about touching your car. These cars are very sensitive to even the smallest of changes and if you don't take care to harmonize your tune, you will eventually blow your engine. The most important things to understand are Fuel, Timing and Boost and how one effects the other. Don't try to tune one and not touch the others. There is a clear relationship between them.

We will be happy to help you in your endeavor, so ask all your questions in the "Ask a Tuner" thread. We will impart our knowledge to you!
 
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Thanks,
I have done quite a bit of research on the subject and know that small changes are necessary and that all those things work together. The issue I have run into is that I'm not totally sure on how to use the RaceTuner or RR software. As in if I want to add more fuel I'm not sure where to do that. I've even gone to the extreme of talking to Cobb and asking them for help on the subject but I get passed over and told they are working on software training tutorials for that.. That was 3 years ago though. At this point, the best thing for me would be to look over someones shoulder to actually see how they make the changes that need to be made. Once I figure that out, maybe I'll make some youtube video tutorials for everyone to use.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Cobb's help files in ATR are very useful. They use to actually have a tuning guide that was pretty useful but I am not sure that is true any more.

There are three ways of changing fuel. That is with MAF scaling, Injector scaling, and fuel table. When all is said and done and everything is calibrated correctly, you will end up adding or removing fuel with the fuel tables, but before you get to that point, you have to calibrate your injector scale and MAF scale first. The reason for this is to get the AFR out the tail pipe to mach the AFR that the tables are referencing at that time. So the idea here is to calibrate injectors and MAF first and then tune from the AFR tables.

If you are using stock injectors, then work is done and you don't have to touch injector scale. MAF calibration should always be considered because even the stock MAF calibration is off. For calibrating the MAF, you do it in two steps. Step one is Closed Loop calibration usually normal driving and highway cruise. In this mode the ECU is referencing the stock O2 sensor and making adjustments to fuel. If you log A/F Correction and A/F Learned together and compare that to the MAF voltage being produced, the resulting error is a one to one relationship with MAF voltage. So if you have a +10% error at 2.5 volts, you simply adjust the g/s value at that voltage by +10%, there by increasing the fuel at that voltage. Once you get your fuel trims to be close to zero, you are good. It does involve a lot more than that but this is just a description of the concept. Step two is for Open Loop calibration usually on heavy and wide open throttle. It is the same concept but instead of referencing the O2 sensor, The ecu calculates fuel based on looks up values and does not take the O2 into consideration. This is dangerous because if the MAF is not calibrated properly, you could have gross errors in your final fuel. This is also why the OEM calibrates the MAF to be rich. In this mode you need to reference a wide band AFR gauge and calculate the error yourself. So you would compare your Wide Band reading to Commanded Fuel and calculate the % error. Then just make corrections to the MAF at the relevant voltage like you did for Closed Loop.

Once you are satisfied that everything is properly calibrated, then you can make changes to the AFR table to make things richer or leaner as required.
 
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