Future Build List

[STIKC]

I put together this list with basic prices. I'm looking for opinions, thing's I missed or things I don't need to purchase. I put the list in "Stages" that are not the standard stages but my very own stages during the build process.

GT35 BUILD SHEET


"Stage 1":
Nameless Performance Catback Back $1048
Cobb Short shifter $175
Cobb front and rear shifter bushings $65
STi GrpN transmission mount $82
STi GrpN Motor mount set $142
DW 1300cc top feeds $549
DW 65c $149
ETS FMIC kit $1325


"Stage 1" total: $3535


"Stage 2":
ML600 shortblock (cost includes your $800 discount for using stock block) $4448

• H-Beam Manley Rods
• Forged Manley Pistons

Kelford 272 cams $895
Manley Performance RaceFlo valves (intake/exhaust) $298
Manley performance springs and retainers $272
Cylinder head machine work $495
ARP head studs $195
Subaru Gasket kit $253
Long block assembly (not including accessories or setting engine timing) $380
Exedy Stage2 HD clutch kit (542ft/lbs @ the wheels) $685
Aeromotive fuel rail kit and adjustable FPR $857
ECU re-calibration for long block changes $350
TGV Deletes or Motiv Composite TGV deletes: ~$200


"Stage 2" Total: $9328


"Stage 3":
ETS rotated turbo kit w/ GTX3582 and .82 Tial hotside $3995
DEI T3 turbo heat shield kit (includes blanket and 15' of wrap for DP) $189
Agency Power ($500) Un-equal length manifold
Speed density map conversion and dyno re-tune $545
Optional 2nd map for racegas $150


"Stage 3" Total: $5379

 

[Spamby]

Fuji has some thoughts on oiling, clearances and tolerances. Hopefully he will elaborate on these as it would be very important to your build.
Also, port matching will also be important.

 

[STIKC]

I'm shooting for 500s on pump gas. 600s on race fuel.

 

[STIKC]

First off, let me be the bearer of bad news

-- If you want 600WHP in these cars, have a second engine already on a stand. Your engine becomes a ticking time bomb because of the cast aluminum material defects and also because of the shitty way the girdle is even made -- there is a rumor that subaru of japan employed a new method on a casting for the newest S model, but that's about the best hope of making that power stat in tact -- a rumor

--Let that sink in for a minute -- 600WHP will be throwing away shortblocks

Next, you're talking much more headwork in a setup to achieve this -- not just a valve job with some cams -- but sending the heads to be ported -- hand finishing the final meeting angle from the throat to the bowl -- setting all the bucket heights properly -- having proper bearing clearance on the bottom end as well as having a higher compression bottom end

I know someone who has a very nice setup I've been fortunate enough to tune -- something very much like what you're proposing -- he made 450WHP at 21 psi with an old GT3076 on 93 octane

My honest opinion of what you need to do is this -- save up money for the engine build itself and get the longblock built by a shop that has experience building engines that will handle higher power like that -- then maybe handle the bolt ons as your continuing improvement

The build is from motion lab. The engine would be built by them or a shop like them. I would handle only the bolt ons. So are you saying I should just go with a GT30 and shoot for 400s on pump gas and maybe 500s on race?

 

[STIKC]

I appreciate the assistance. What parts could I drop off the list to support the GT30?

 

[STIKC]

What engine work would I need? Just fuel pistons and rods?