GR RDKLSTi ? 518whp/492wtq (MD) 2008 STi



2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - rdkls STi


Build thread restructured. First post will always have my latest update, the rest will be on my site.


  • TO BE DETERMINED... old #'s below.
  • Tuner: William Knose, Delicious Tuning
  • Dyno: Mustang AWD, Infamous Performance
  • Weather: 83 Fahrenheit, 44% Humidity, 646ft Elevation
  • 15 Psi ? 367whp, 326wtq -
    [*]23 Psi ? 454whp, 391wtq - [S#]

  • Outfront Motorsports closed deck EJ257 with pinned mains
  • Outfront Motorsports AVCS pin service
  • Outfront Motorsports spec 1/2" ARP head studs
  • STi JDM 12mm oil pump
  • Molnar 79mm billet crankshaft
  • ARP 2000 case bolts
  • CP Pistons - 99.75mm 9:1 (coated crowns) with upgraded wrist pins
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods
  • Race ported heads (by SoCal Porting)
  • GSC stage 2 cams
  • Supertech dual valve spring & titanium retainer kit
  • Supertech +1mm stainless intake valves
  • Supertech +1mm inconel exhaust valves
  • Bowl blended heads (for larger valves)
  • King rod & main bearings
  • Gates racing timing belt
  • Killer B oil pan, baffle & pickup tube
  • JE/Athena head gaskets
  • WPC Treatment on select components

  • Rotated GTX3576R
  • Perrin rotated 2" uppipe (T3)
  • Custom rotated 3" downpipe with QTP electric cutout
  • Perrin 3" intake with K&N filter & pre-filter
  • Perrin EL Big-Tube header
  • Perrin EBCS
  • Perrin/Setrab oil cooler
  • Tial MV-R 44mm EWG
  • Fluidampr Crank Pulley
  • TurboSmart Supersonic BOV
  • Maddad Essentials Street Series Cat-back
  • TurboXS FMIC core with custom charge piping (by KPowered)
  • TGV delete & port, throttle body & intake manifold ported (by SoCal Porting)
  • Rotated STi intake manifold
  • KSTech 9.5mm phenolic spacers
  • Koyo Radiator with Mishimoto hoses
  • Perrin AOS
  • Perrin Thermal turbo & uppipe blankets

  • Radium pump hanger with (2x) AEM 50-1200
  • Radium multi-pump regulator
  • Radium top-feed rails with pulse dampeners
  • Injector Dynamics 2000CC injectors
  • Fuelab 6 micron micro-fiberglass element
  • Continental Ethanol content analyzer

  • DeliciousTuning FlexFuel Kit
  • Ecutek ProECU
  • AEM IAT sensor (tapped just before throttle-body)
  • AEM 5-bar MAP sensor with Cobb MAP sensor adapter
  • NGK 1-step colder plugs

  • Driveshaft Shop Carbon driveshaft
  • CompClutch Rigid Twin-Disc clutch
  • Torque Solution pitch-stop
  • Beatrush engine mounts
  • Beatrush transmission mount
  • Whiteline gearbox mount bushings (positive shift kit)
  • Whiteline steering rack bushings
  • Whiteline Rear Diff fully polyurethane bushings (front & rear)
  • Whiteline Rear Subframe bushings
  • SuperPro Rear LCA bushings (inside & outside)
  • SuperPro Rear Trailing Arm bushings (front & rear)
  • SuperPro Rear Toe Arm bushings
  • Kartboy shifter bushings

  • Tanabe Sustec Pro S-OC coilovers
  • Whiteline 22mm adjustable front & rear swaybars
  • Whiteline front control arm inner-front bushings
  • Whiteline anti-lift kit
  • Kartboy front & rear solid endlinks

  • Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
  • Goodridge stainless steel lines
  • StopTech Power Slot front & rear rotors
  • Hawk HP+ front & rear pads

  • SSR Type-F matte black 17x9.5 +40
  • Michelin PilotSport PS2 275/40
  • McGard spline drive lugs (black)

  • ATI triple gauge pod
  • -Innovate MTX-D Boost/Shift Light
  • -Innovate MTX-D Oil Pressure/Temp
  • -Innovate MTX-D EGT
  • SMY gauge bezel
  • -Gauges: AEM UEGO Wideband
  • 15% tint all around
  • Weathertech floor liners front & rear

  • GTSpec aluminum undertray (splashguard)
  • Hexis 3D carbon roof wrap
  • Hexis 3D carbon front bumper sectional wrap
  • HTAutos full lip kit
  • Rally Armor V2 mudflaps (black/grey)
  • Painted OEM grill/mustache

Roof Rack
  • Subaru factory rails
  • Inno medium fairing (40")
  • Yakima Frontloader bike racks with lock cores

2015, Dec 7 - Engine bay complete and first fire video.






Last edited:


System Operator
Staff member


Yeah, a full-face clutch is going to be a requirement... Really if it can handle over 500awhp then it'll be more than sufficient.

*Updated goals in first post.


Six puck does not last long with a retard like me behind the wheel.

Yeah I had a sprung 6-puck in my B18C5'd 99 DX (hatch), never again will that mistake be made in a daily driver.

And deek, clutches are rated by torque, not by WHP. They are rated by flywheel torque mind you.

Good to know, thanks. :tup:

So, you could have a motor that makes 600WHP, but only 300 ft-lbs of torque and maintain a very light clutch. Make sense? For your application, I think you will be making a bit more power than torque. should be below 500 torque at the flywheel IMO. Maybe you will make more with the retarded motor, but I don't really think you will unless the tune is rather aggressive. Which is something not like George at all.

Understood. Does my planned list match my goals thus far? Is it realistic to assume 425+ awhp daily driven with 91 oct (California horse urine) and alcohol? Is there something you would advise adding to the list, or changing? I don't really want to be maxing out the potential of any component at those numbers, if anything I'd prefer the tune (and availability of real gas) to be what is limiting factors of my power goals. Make sense?
Last edited:


New member
I perfer to not have a warped clutch disc and I can modulate the 6-puck fairly I have no problem with it.


I never recommend ragged edge tuning/building but I also never recommend using a grenade when all you need is a knife. Basically Im saying that if 425 is your goal, pick the components that are in their efficancy range at that HP. Now, your 48 wont get you there. Im on 93 OCT and tuned pretty aggressively and Im at 343HP 387 TQ on VD Dyno Jet numbers. Even with meth, Ill be up around 400 but thats still pushing it. My recommendation is a 30R at the least. Eddies motor will hold that quite well but I would also recommend at least doing springs, retainers and sels. Possiably a set of mild cams as well. That will safely get you to your goal without a doubt!

Curious, what's ragged edge?

Thanks for the input, that's why I'm here... to learn (as much as I can with all this network and systems engineering crap in my head). That said, I do want to learn and get my hands dirty, but right now I just don't have the time or mental capacity to reach guru status. Capability yes, just can't focus 100% of my efforts on it. Who knows though, I might learn more than I initially intended.

This is a priority for me though, and if I get to a point where I feel like I'm biting of more than I can chew, I'll reassess my priorities and make adjustments.

I appreciate all recommendations and feedback regarding my goals/plan and will make adjustments where needed based on that info.

Deek via Tapatalk on the GNEX.


Ragged edge <-- he means getting the most possible WHP/WTQ without a decent safety net.

Systems engineering will suit your understanding quite well. All we're doing with your car is opening up bottle necks in the system.

Ah thanks for clarification. I do have an analytical mind and pretty keen trouble-shooting abilities. Sometimes overwhelms me because I over-think and get flustered. I'm looking forward to utilizing you's guy's experience and knowledge. ;)

Deek via Tapatalk on the GNEX.


New member
Nice Edwin!

Deek, Edwin's old block will suit you fine for a 30R. Hell, I think it laughed at the FP Black he had on it. Me, I prefer overbuilt for what you want to throw at it to remove fears of weak links.

For example, IF my 20G manages to blow up my current shortblock (I'm only running a safe tune currently, looking to go a tad bit hotter when I get home), I will go rather extreme and get a closed-deck, fully forged, destroked, ACL-bearinged 2.5L. Overkill? Maybe, but I won't have to worry about blowing another motor.

I'm not near as skilled as Gino or Edwin, but the three of us share the fact that we continue to learn and soak up what we can. Hell, 4yrs ago when I was doing my swap, I knew very little on what I was doing. It took me 4mos of frustration and learning to get it done, but I learned A LOT in doing it and can now take my car apart in my sleep. I had to reset the was my first time timing a motor and got it within one tooth of perfection on the first shot. Last year in doing my SB, Steve showed me how to disassemble and reassemble the motor (for the most part....still have to do a SB disassembly). I prefer to do things myself and get it figured out so that I don't have to rely on others, not that I don't like other people touching my car (I don't, but there are a handful of people I DO trust, Gino, Edwin and Steve being among them), but because I like being self-sufficient and saving money.


Thanks. I really need to get some free time to put more thought into nailing down the exact components of the planned section.... it's almost time. :tup:

Deek via Tapatalk on the GNEX.


BTW, have you looked at what I have sitting around? Wideband gauge just sold, still have a boost and oil pressure gauge. Oil pressure just needs a new sensor... last one broke :(

Haven't had a chance to stop by your place yet, the 2000+ mile journey is a bit unenticing. ;)

I'll get my thoughts and questions together over the next day or so and we'll talk.


Just got off the phone with a buddy at my local America's Tire, put in the order for Conti DW's this time around, they'll be sufficient.

275/40 17 with certs for under $900, including mounting and lifetime balancing/rotation.

The additional $600 or so I'd have to spend to get the Mich PS2's with certs could go towards the go fast bits.


Floating around yes, text you when I have another minute. I called back and let my buddy know I might not be going the DW route, going to reconsider the RE760's.


System Operator
Staff member
Star specs?