Weird Electrical Issue

[icudruln]

Coming back from my tune today, which was about 60 miles one way, my stereo shut itself off (aftermarket stereo). I thought nothing of it, as it turned itself back on right away. It happened a few more times on the way back, to where it wouldn't turn itself back on. What it did is similar to when you hit a pot hole and a CD skips, then begins playing again. I stopped to grab some lunch, and the car stuttered upon starting it, but when I slightly stepped on the gas, it started up and idled without any issue. The car didn't do this at any time during tuning, turning the car on/off on the dyno, or when I left the shop.

I figure it's a loose ground...does anyone have any tips where to look? I checked all basic ground in the engine bay (battery, fenders, etc). FWIW, the positive side of the battery terminal has a bit of corrosion, and the negative has none at all. I feel this is something extremely simple, and I'm just looking to hard and over thinking this. :roll:

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Yeah I would check every ground. Also check the main fuse box and check that all your fuses are secure. I have found that simply unplugging connectors and re plugging them solves problems as well. Check the connector and wires at the ignition switch. That is another possibility... a bad ignition switch

 

[icudruln]

It turns out the issues were not related. I traced the starting issue first, and it was a bit of dirt stuck between a ground and the wiring on the driver side fender, as well as being slightly loose. I cleaned it up, tightened it, and it starts up without any issue.

As far as the stereo cutting in and out, it quit working alltogether yesterday. I pulled apart the stereo and dash underneath the steering wheel, only to find a broken fuse (yes, broken) off the hot wire for the stereo. Put in a new fuse and it works like new.

 

[BAD STI]

Glad you figured it out! I wish my cam sensor issue was as simple.

I had a similar issue to yours last yeat... It ended up being a loose battery cable. :tard:

 

[Vermont]

Glad you figured it out! I wish my cam sensor issue was as simple.

I had a similar issue to yours last yeat... It ended up being a loose battery cable. :tard:

You cam sensor still all messed up bro? Have you tried clearing and replacing the AVCS solenoid for that head yet?

 

[icudruln]

It turns out the issue is still around :|. I checked battery voltage (14.6 V), as well as the alternator (same voltage as battery). I did a battery load test as well, and the battery is fine. The fuel pump was checked the the tuner the day of the tune, who said it was in good shape. I'm leaning towards it possibly being the starter solenoid, or the ignition switch as George suggested. A buddy with a Honda background suggested maybe the crank sensor? I would think since this is intermittent, this wouldn't be likely. The car is not throwing any codes at all.

Symptom:
Car starts fine when cold (i.e. sitting overnight 10+ hours, or sitting for 8 hours while I'm at work). When driven a decent amount of time (at least 15 minutes), followed by the car being shut off, the car takes a few "turnovers" to start up (i.e. similar to when a battery is going out). The car has never failed to start up...it just takes a few seconds sometimes.

Recently modified:
Opensource ECU tuning (removed intake to cap off turbo inlet for a smoke test)
Shop installed T1R Top Feed Fuel Rails & Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, as well as braided fuel lines
***FWIW, the shop that installed the fuel setup did have the send/return backwards off the fuel pressure regulator, which was corrected by the tuner. :roll:

I feel like maybe the starter wiring could have been bumped, and/or possibly loosened when installing the new fuel setup, since you're removing the intake manifold, and TMIC. The starter if on top of the transmission bellhousing towards the driver's side, correct? Where is the crank sensor located?

 

[STimedic]

If you just had it tuned, could it be possible that they disabled all of the codes? If it turns and turns but doesn't start, llok at the crank sensor, had the issue coming back from last deployment, code came up, replaced the sensor (like $15-20 at AAP), the problem went away. Another issue I had was a loose battery connector that was frustrating me for a week before finding it. The crank sensor is right above the crank pulley, one 10mm or 12mm (can't remember which one) bolt holds it in.

 

[icudruln]

If you just had it tuned, could it be possible that they disabled all of the codes? If it turns and turns but doesn't start, llok at the crank sensor, had the issue coming back from last deployment, code came up, replaced the sensor (like $15-20 at AAP), the problem went away. Another issue I had was a loose battery connector that was frustrating me for a week before finding it. The crank sensor is right above the crank pulley, one 10mm or 12mm (can't remember which one) bolt holds it in.

Thanks for the info. Is there a way I can see if the codes are disabled? I know for a fact the codes for the TGV sensors were deactivated due to TGV deletes, as well as EBCS related codes due to a manual boost controller, but that is all. The car is tuned with opensource. Can I view which codes are shut off with ECU Flash/Romraider?

FWIW, the car starts when it has sat no problem...just like it should. Could a crank sensor that's failing be intermittent, such as when the car has been driven and warmed up?

 

[STimedic]

Yes. In the RomRaider program, you should be able to see what codes are disabled and I think there's a 'disable all codes' box. And yes, between the crank sensor and possible fuel trim issues on start-up, you will have firing issues. Had that with my previous tune. Best thing is to have someone qualified on here take a look and see if they can play with it to get it within the ballpark.

 

[icudruln]

Yes. In the RomRaider program, you should be able to see what codes are disabled and I think there's a 'disable all codes' box. And yes, between the crank sensor and possible fuel trim issues on start-up, you will have firing issues. Had that with my previous tune. Best thing is to have someone qualified on here take a look and see if they can play with it to get it within the ballpark.

So, the only codes that are off are codes related to the factory EBCS and TGV motors (due to TGV deletes), since I switched to a manual boost controller (Grimmspeed). I've been looking around a bit more, and it doesn't "sound" like a starter seems when they're going out.

In this video, this 2008 STI's starter is going. My car just takes a few times (anywhere from 2-5) to turn over/fire up and idle. My car does what his is doing just before he actually gets it started, NOT what it does the first time he tries to start the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQvKByOUu-k

I'll be doing a log this weekend and sending it to my tuner. He said

The post start can be fixed if it idles after starting oddly. Cranking for hot start can be tweaked as well, but it won't always start on the first crank.