Obviously my car was eating excessive oil but what do you guys think of the condition in these pics I've only got one head off so far since the cam and crank bolts put up a battle and ate my work time.
Yes that is excessive IMO. As you suggest it looks like the piston surface is greasy with oil as well, unless this is just coolant. The thing I find odd is the plugs are not fouled and actually indicate a lean condition. The insulators are white... unless these are just new.
The details you guys catch are why I love this forum. Yes I forgot to mention that the plugs were replaced when I did the compression test.
The compression results were
DRear 149
DFront120
PRear 135
PFront120
It's not terrible i was jut afraid of ring lands letting go and going thru my pistons so thats why I parked it till I was able to save and acquire all the parts to do a forged internal motor.
I'm figuring allot of the oil consumption was blow by since I don't have an catch can and that the FMIC had a decent amount of oil in it.
That is terrible! :lol:
So you guys do agree that I should have rebuilt the motor I had people saying that wasn't terrible because it was a cold engine comp test on the forum we all can't stand.
I just went by my instincts and knew my power loss and oil consumption was no bueno and wanted to get her rebuilt before the motor are itself.
Burnt toast bud, burnt toast. If your planning on keeping the car, I'd do the forged internals, rebuild it. And add that AOS man! That's a must have for any turbocharged Subaru! Get an AOS and either [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] or myself to etune you, and then take that puppy to the dyno after break in and get it dialed in. Then you won't be worrying about this problem again.
I've already got a forged internal motor that the parts will be swapped over to and will also be getting an afr gauge to monitor if its afr.
Are you thinking it went lean?
Considering the condition those valves are in and how they look that toasty burnt kind of color, that's a clear indication that at some point within the rev range you spiked rich and then something in your tune made the ECU lean it wayyyy the heck out, could also have been a mechanical issue causing it to go lean. I was discussing with [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] the other day about thermal efficiency and the useable work of the consumed fuel. I'm wondering if your burning oil issues caused the fuel mixture to lean out towards the end if it's life span. If the cylinder EGT's are super hot it's going to lower the effective octane level, which in return could be a cause for a lean condition, but that's only a speculation on my part. I'm real sorry this happened to ya man, tough break. But I'm happy to hear your jumping back in the saddle instead of saying ah efff this and moving on. Kudos to you sir!
Yeah man I'd get those heads done for sure, and I hear ya on the parked cars bud, I own a Evo, an RX7 and my '13 STi and drive my Lexus SUV more than anything else haha. I think I might have one of the lowest mileage '13 STi's at 5,200 miles and I know my Evo is ranking with the low mileage club at being an 05 with 12,000 miles
If you do the disassembly it won't cost much out of pocket, just have the clearances checked, and have them hot tanked and cleaned, if your guides are good, just get some OE valves and replacement seals. No need for beefy valves and springs if your not looking for monster power and you plan on running stock cams. Heck some cams can still run with stock springs and retainers, I know a lot of Brian Crower cams are like that, I've had several customers with Evo's have drop in 272's with stock valve train. And a few Subaru's with 280's on stock valve trains as well. The STi heads flow great from the factory. And if you want to go the extra mile, and you feel your up to the challenge, get a porting kit from summit and let her eat.
Well if you want some pointers and tips bud just ask, I'll help you through out it, just send me some logs and I'll tell you what to correct on ATR