WHAT DO YPU THINK OF THE CARBON BUILD UP ON THE HEADS AND PISTONS.

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Obviously my car was eating excessive oil but what do you guys think of the condition in these pics I've only got one head off so far since the cam and crank bolts put up a battle and ate my work time.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Yes that is excessive IMO. As you suggest it looks like the piston surface is greasy with oil as well, unless this is just coolant. The thing I find odd is the plugs are not fouled and actually indicate a lean condition. The insulators are white... unless these are just new.
 
Yes that is excessive IMO. As you suggest it looks like the piston surface is greasy with oil as well, unless this is just coolant. The thing I find odd is the plugs are not fouled and actually indicate a lean condition. The insulators are white... unless these are just new.

The details you guys catch are why I love this forum. Yes I forgot to mention that the plugs were replaced when I did the compression test.

The compression results were

DRear 149
DFront120
PRear 135
PFront120

It's not terrible i was jut afraid of ring lands letting go and going thru my pistons so thats why I parked it till I was able to save and acquire all the parts to do a forged internal motor.

I'm figuring allot of the oil consumption was blow by since I don't have an catch can and that the FMIC had a decent amount of oil in it.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
The details you guys catch are why I love this forum. Yes I forgot to mention that the plugs were replaced when I did the compression test.

The compression results were

DRear 149
DFront120
PRear 135
PFront120

It's not terrible i was jut afraid of ring lands letting go and going thru my pistons so thats why I parked it till I was able to save and acquire all the parts to do a forged internal motor.

I'm figuring allot of the oil consumption was blow by since I don't have an catch can and that the FMIC had a decent amount of oil in it.

That is terrible! :lol:
 
LOL Thanks for making me feel bad about my motor now I guess I should have said its not as terrible as other peoples comp tests I've see posted.

Lesson learned dont but a used sti unless your willing to put money in to it LOL.
 
So you guys do agree that I should have rebuilt the motor I had people saying that wasn't terrible because it was a cold engine comp test on the forum we all can't stand.

I just went by my instincts and knew my power loss and oil consumption was no bueno and wanted to get her rebuilt before the motor are itself.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
So you guys do agree that I should have rebuilt the motor I had people saying that wasn't terrible because it was a cold engine comp test on the forum we all can't stand.

I just went by my instincts and knew my power loss and oil consumption was no bueno and wanted to get her rebuilt before the motor are itself.

I agree... You are just being prudent. If you have the time and money now then take care of it. Either way the motor was tired and it was all down hill from here.
 

TK-421

New member
Burnt toast bud, burnt toast. If your planning on keeping the car, I'd do the forged internals, rebuild it. And add that AOS man! That's a must have for any turbocharged Subaru! Get an AOS and either [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] or myself to etune you, and then take that puppy to the dyno after break in and get it dialed in. Then you won't be worrying about this problem again.
 
Burnt toast bud, burnt toast. If your planning on keeping the car, I'd do the forged internals, rebuild it. And add that AOS man! That's a must have for any turbocharged Subaru! Get an AOS and either [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] or myself to etune you, and then take that puppy to the dyno after break in and get it dialed in. Then you won't be worrying about this problem again.

I've already got a forged internal motor that the parts will be swapped over to and will also be getting an afr gauge to monitor if its afr.

Are you thinking it went lean?
 

TK-421

New member
I've already got a forged internal motor that the parts will be swapped over to and will also be getting an afr gauge to monitor if its afr.

Are you thinking it went lean?

Considering the condition those valves are in and how they look that toasty burnt kind of color, that's a clear indication that at some point within the rev range you spiked rich and then something in your tune made the ECU lean it wayyyy the heck out, could also have been a mechanical issue causing it to go lean. I was discussing with [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] the other day about thermal efficiency and the useable work of the consumed fuel. I'm wondering if your burning oil issues caused the fuel mixture to lean out towards the end if it's life span. If the cylinder EGT's are super hot it's going to lower the effective octane level, which in return could be a cause for a lean condition, but that's only a speculation on my part. I'm real sorry this happened to ya man, tough break. But I'm happy to hear your jumping back in the saddle instead of saying ah efff this and moving on. Kudos to you sir!
 
Considering the condition those valves are in and how they look that toasty burnt kind of color, that's a clear indication that at some point within the rev range you spiked rich and then something in your tune made the ECU lean it wayyyy the heck out, could also have been a mechanical issue causing it to go lean. I was discussing with [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] the other day about thermal efficiency and the useable work of the consumed fuel. I'm wondering if your burning oil issues caused the fuel mixture to lean out towards the end if it's life span. If the cylinder EGT's are super hot it's going to lower the effective octane level, which in return could be a cause for a lean condition, but that's only a speculation on my part. I'm real sorry this happened to ya man, tough break. But I'm happy to hear your jumping back in the saddle instead of saying ah efff this and moving on. Kudos to you sir!

I'm in it permanently since I picked this car for its solid building platform and body lines.

LOL I've actually owned my cars parked more years then I have driven it since its a PITA saving up extra cash since i have a 15month old boy and 3.5 year old girl.

So pretty much I have to tear down heads and get them rebuilt is what your saying?

Well looks like my car will be parked for several more months if not years BLAHAHAHA
 

TK-421

New member
Yeah man I'd get those heads done for sure, and I hear ya on the parked cars bud, I own a Evo, an RX7 and my '13 STi and drive my Lexus SUV more than anything else haha. I think I might have one of the lowest mileage '13 STi's at 5,200 miles and I know my Evo is ranking with the low mileage club at being an 05 with 12,000 miles
 
Yeah man I'd get those heads done for sure, and I hear ya on the parked cars bud, I own a Evo, an RX7 and my '13 STi and drive my Lexus SUV more than anything else haha. I think I might have one of the lowest mileage '13 STi's at 5,200 miles and I know my Evo is ranking with the low mileage club at being an 05 with 12,000 miles

If there was a not like button for the confirmation of having to rebuild my heads id be hitting it rite now.

So how much is it to rebuild these damn heads now if I do the disassembly?
 

TK-421

New member
If you do the disassembly it won't cost much out of pocket, just have the clearances checked, and have them hot tanked and cleaned, if your guides are good, just get some OE valves and replacement seals. No need for beefy valves and springs if your not looking for monster power and you plan on running stock cams. Heck some cams can still run with stock springs and retainers, I know a lot of Brian Crower cams are like that, I've had several customers with Evo's have drop in 272's with stock valve train. And a few Subaru's with 280's on stock valve trains as well. The STi heads flow great from the factory. And if you want to go the extra mile, and you feel your up to the challenge, get a porting kit from summit and let her eat.
 
If you do the disassembly it won't cost much out of pocket, just have the clearances checked, and have them hot tanked and cleaned, if your guides are good, just get some OE valves and replacement seals. No need for beefy valves and springs if your not looking for monster power and you plan on running stock cams. Heck some cams can still run with stock springs and retainers, I know a lot of Brian Crower cams are like that, I've had several customers with Evo's have drop in 272's with stock valve train. And a few Subaru's with 280's on stock valve trains as well. The STi heads flow great from the factory. And if you want to go the extra mile, and you feel your up to the challenge, get a porting kit from summit and let her eat.

I'll probably be doing some mild porting then since its always been something ive wanted to do but now I'm going to have borrow a friend tactrix cable and get an etune since i reduce to buy another accessport since I'm still butt hurt about having a non supported version 1.

I do have the street tune software for it though it might be tempting to try to do some road tuning but I don't know if I trust myself.
 

TK-421

New member
Well if you want some pointers and tips bud just ask, I'll help you through out it, just send me some logs and I'll tell you what to correct on ATR
 
Well if you want some pointers and tips bud just ask, I'll help you through out it, just send me some logs and I'll tell you what to correct on ATR

I just might take you up on that offer since obviously my first protune didn't help me much but I can't blame the tuner since it looks like allot of blow by was being ingested by my engine.
 

TK-421

New member
You should also check out FASTuuN it's web based training that will teach you how to tune an AccessPORT in ATR specifically for you year of vehicle and version of AccessPORT. I've had a few customers go to them and learn to tune their own vehicles, pretty awesome company if I must say so.
 
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