GD George's cars (Retired)

joey.lisano

New member
I haven't seen anyone running these, but if you want a more powerful, stock location turbo from a reputable shop, Blouch makes their Dom 1.0XT (49 lb/min) and 2.0XT (55 lb/min). These are journal bearing, so it's based off the Mitsubishi center housing, as opposed to the ball bearing Garrett ones. They use the Blouch billet compressor wheels with an optional 3" inlet. The great thing, IMHO, is that they let you pick the turbine housing - 7, 8, or 10 cm^2 - as opposed to their other turbos where they force you to use the 10cm^2 housing. I've never seen a dyno graph, but from the look of the flow rate and Mitsubishi roots, I'd say it's a direct attack against FP's Green and HTA Green. The Green with a 7cm^2 housing used to be my stock location turbo of choice (until they discontinued it), which is why I mention these ones.
 

toomes

New member
if i knew what i was doing i might attempt to port it my self.

Hey! Question!

Do you think 65lbs compressor is a bit to much? I would be worried about spool up at that point. Just weighing my options.


not at all!!:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Great info!

Yes I was looking at the blouch turbos and I'm leaning toward something like the dom 2 if I was to guess at it without any research. I think a 55lbs compressor seems more reasonable for my goals but at the same time I want to take full advantage of my cams, 9.5:1 compression pistons, ported heads and my AVCS settings.

I have allot of thinking and research to do. Since I have the time I think I'm going to make this a project to precisely match my turbo to my set up. The first thing I need to do is define my goals and make them reasonable.

I haven't seen anyone running these, but if you want a more powerful, stock location turbo from a reputable shop, Blouch makes their Dom 1.0XT (49 lb/min) and 2.0XT (55 lb/min). These are journal bearing, so it's based off the Mitsubishi center housing, as opposed to the ball bearing Garrett ones. They use the Blouch billet compressor wheels with an optional 3" inlet. The great thing, IMHO, is that they let you pick the turbine housing - 7, 8, or 10 cm^2 - as opposed to their other turbos where they force you to use the 10cm^2 housing. I've never seen a dyno graph, but from the look of the flow rate and Mitsubishi roots, I'd say it's a direct attack against FP's Green and HTA Green. The Green with a 7cm^2 housing used to be my stock location turbo of choice (until they discontinued it), which is why I mention these ones.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Dam Holy! That's freaking huge. :)
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Oh boy! This ought to be interesting!
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
LOL... okay obeywhan... Steer away:tup: Keep in mind though that I will be using specific mods and have a goal to achieve. My initial calculation suggest I want to be some where around 55 lbs
 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
My next build, which is currently under way, should support this kind of power. I'm building a sleeved block with eagle rods and cp pistons. Block is going out to the machinist just as soon as I get my tax refund. Besides your talking to some one who has done this so many time now I can do it in my sleep. I also keep spare blocks in the garage now. While I have one in the car I will be building the next in the garage and if I have to replace them every two years I'd say I'm pretty good with that :lol:

My goal is to be able to have a DD and track it on weekends. (No more drift queen) I need to maintain a reasonable amount of response as a DD in the lower rpm range and yet produce decent power in the middle and up top through red line. I think if I combine the right turbo with the right engine configuration I can achieve this easily. Couple that with a proper AVCS strategy and you end up with a win.. I understand that I can't have my cake and eat it to but if I can steel a few crumbs, I will. I understand that I will be losing some bottom end but I'm good with that.

Some key points to help me reach this goal is...
-cams
-9.5:1 compression pistons to help with low end power. This will also allow me to run less boost
-ported and polished heads. (I may take Fugi's advice and change the valves)
-headers for top end
-tuning strategies
-and I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch of other stuff.
 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Thanks Fuji, Nice info.:)

Yes. I have a set of 07 heads being cleaned up and rebuilt. I'll just ask to have larger valves put in now. It's gonna cost a bit more but I think I can scrap up the money. These heads are in the shop as we speak.

I'm set on a 55lbs compressor at this point. The Dom 2.0xt is looking like my turbo of choice.:tup:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I can't wait to see how this next build turns out. :)

I'm definitely going to take my sweet time on this one. This time I'm doing it with purpose and direction. Not just because I have to fix it right away. I have parts enough to build a complete long block so there is no down time with my car through this process. I just have to stay off the gas. That is so hard to do with my Jeremy Clarkson personality.:lol:

+1. Maybe we can talk him into some suspension when money allows.

I hear you're going to teach BAD how to tune. Some grad students in the engine labs could use some help tuning HCCI engines. :lol:

Oh trust me Joey. I have been wanting to do suspension for THE longest time now. I am making a promise to myself that this will be a goal for next year:tup:

Yes and I believe that you will be able to follow along with the sessions, I think he plans on making it visible to the mods only. Your welcome to follow along.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Holy I was just at the shop today and was thinking if I wanted a bad ass motor all new from block to turbo. What price our we talking? $10,000 to $15,000?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Depends how badass you really plain on going. If your talking new internals, head work, rotated turbo kit, front mount, fuel system, you can easily exceed that. You could save yourself allot by doing much of the work your self.

To purchase a good block already built you would spend around $5000 for anything decent. I can do the same thing myself for about half that including machining.

For new heads your talking around $4000 for a set but if you buy a used set for a couple hundred or use your heads, you can send them in to be done and it could be between $700 to $2500 depending on what you specify.

Fuel system is going to cost around $1100-1300 for injectors, pump, rails, FPR, and lines

And then the turbo. Anything from $1400 to $5000 depending on what you want.

And finally labor for everything if you are not installing it your self plus Tuning.

This shit aint cheap! I thought at some point you would get the "modding" bug but the one thing I like most about your car is that is the cleanest stock STi I know and that is something to be proud of. Don't ruin it with gawdy engine mods until you need to. Do some really nice suspension mods first.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Yes I'm doing all suspension mods first and we own a garage and we do all the work ourselves. Just wanted to see if I had a motor all done up and ready to go how much it would cost. Thanks Holy!
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Yes I'm doing all suspension mods first and we own a garage and we do all the work ourselves. Just wanted to see if I had a motor all done up and ready to go how much it would cost. Thanks Holy!

Gotcha :tup:
 
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