After installing the Harness Im thinking I was sold an 04 Wiring harness. Everything in the car works except for the dome light and power windows. Upon start up the car went into Limp Mode. Are there major differences in the wiring harnesses. I would really hate to have to buy another harness, or will I be able to mod this harness?
04 wiring Harness
- Thread starter Busker
- Start date
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Also what year is your car and what wire harness specifically did you order... Bulkhead (Engine Room), Bulkhead (Compartment), Engine/Transmission, Instrument, Ect.
This car has done nothing but fight me every step of the way. I appreciate it everyone coming into help. I have an 05 Sti, the Harness we think might be from on 04, its the main harness under the dash and into the engine bay. We've got everything else working now, car is simply in limp, I dont know if its bc of my TGV's and rotated set up or what but I had to Trailer the car lastnight from Bubba's to his aunts house where it sits.
HolyCrapItsFast
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Busker. I'm curious about something. What is it doing in safe mode if anything at all. I have another similar situation where the wire harness was replaced along with the ECU and immobilizer combo and now it only revs to 2000 rpm and will go no further. :tup:
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
This is interesting... SleepyBear is having exactly the same issue with his car... The dealer suggested that it was in safe mode but they couldn't explain why. They kept blaming it on the TGV deletes. What I have done so far is...
- Reset the ECU and install a base tune.
- Observed the throttle and accelerator signals. It looked like the TPS was not responding to input above 3% which made me start looking at the throttle body and accelerator circuit. There was even a code at one point for Throttle Body signal high which indicates a hard open.
- We then checked the pin outs and continuity of every wire related to the throttle body and accelerator peddle all the way back to the ECU. All was fine.
- We replaced the throttle body... No go.
- We replaced the ECU and had the dealer reprogram the immobilizer... same thing.
That was as far as I got. I am expecting to return to his home in upstate NY soon to resume armed to teeth with diagnostic procedures. I searched and searched and found no reference to this safe mode in the manual or anything other than programing the immobilizer when replacing the ECU.
Since the dealer suggested Safe Mode issue I would like to know more about it. Maybe we can use this thread to track our progress and collaborate on possible solutions.:tup:
- Reset the ECU and install a base tune.
- Observed the throttle and accelerator signals. It looked like the TPS was not responding to input above 3% which made me start looking at the throttle body and accelerator circuit. There was even a code at one point for Throttle Body signal high which indicates a hard open.
- We then checked the pin outs and continuity of every wire related to the throttle body and accelerator peddle all the way back to the ECU. All was fine.
- We replaced the throttle body... No go.
- We replaced the ECU and had the dealer reprogram the immobilizer... same thing.
That was as far as I got. I am expecting to return to his home in upstate NY soon to resume armed to teeth with diagnostic procedures. I searched and searched and found no reference to this safe mode in the manual or anything other than programing the immobilizer when replacing the ECU.
Since the dealer suggested Safe Mode issue I would like to know more about it. Maybe we can use this thread to track our progress and collaborate on possible solutions.:tup:
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Unfortunately I have no idea at the moment how to figure out what the trigger is or how to go about tracking it down. I have no immediate clues and everything so far points to hardware but you never know for sure. 
SO today Bubba and I did a little bit of datalogging here is what we found, SUPER advanced timing almost as if I was running e-85, Stock MAF Scale, Waste Gate Duty Cycle is way above what it should be for a break in tune. Fuel Cut was set for 39 PSI, TGV's are all on supposed to be off, EVAP systems are still on ( theres no A/C compressor, lines nothing)
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Sleepy's was replaced with a brand new ECU from the factory twice. I checked the tune and it was fine. Don't know what it could be in his case. I'll know more when I return this month.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
More like a money sapping problem :lol: This poor kid has spent thousands so far and still does not have a working car, which is why I'm offering my services for free.
So today Harvey called me back and highly recommended that I do not use OS and get an AP and he'll pro tune me. So once this EMS sells I'll hopefully be able to get tuned. He also told me seeing that I wont be running more then 25lbs of boost he said not to worry about upgrading my MAP sensor. This car is just starting to get to me, but hopefully in the end it will all be worth it.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
There is nothing wrong with an OS tune. I don't know what it is with tuners saying that OS is bad.
They think the community is writing their own code when all they are doing is unlocking the existing tables with in the stock rom. Are they really that blind?
Tell Harvey to come one and explain himself!
This is why I'm stuck between a rock and a hardplace. I mean Im sure hes lookin at making some extra money by selling me the AP but like Bubba and I were talkin about maybe its b/c of the failsafes that are imbedded in the AP.
As far as MAC Auto, Ive emailed them twice called them 4 times and still have yet to hear a response from them. Its a little disconcerting. Like I said earlier, Im just getting frustrated beyond all belief.
As far as MAC Auto, Ive emailed them twice called them 4 times and still have yet to hear a response from them. Its a little disconcerting. Like I said earlier, Im just getting frustrated beyond all belief.
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