Build Project Putting Together, Asking for Input

[STIKC]

I need opinions on the build list.

Manley STD Stroke 99.55mm + .05mm Bore 8:5:1 Dish Piston & Ring Set

Manley 130.5mm "Turbo Tuff" I-Beam Subaru rod set

ACL Standard Size High Performance w/ Extra Oil Clearance Rod Bearing Set

ACL Standard Size High Performance Main Bearing Set

Subaru OEM 79mm Stroke Crankshaft

Subaru OEM Complete Engine Gasket Kit

Subaru OEM 11mm Sti Oil Pump

ARP Head Stud Kit

Brian Crower Subaru Camshafts

Manley Valve Spring & Retainer Kit

Manley Exhaust 32mm Stainless Race Master Valves

Manley Intake 36mm Stainless Race Flo Valves

Motive Autoworks TGV Riser - Top Feed Only - Metal Intake Manifold

Exedy Stage 2 Heavy Duty Clutch Kit

Turbo Shield Kit

DeatschWerks 1300cc Top Feed Injectors

DW65c Compact In-Tank Fuel Pump

AP Stainless Steel Unequal Length Header w/o Uppipe

Aeromotive Top Feed Fuel Rail System

Cobb Rear Shifting Bushings

Cobb Front Shifting Bushings

Cobb Short Shifter

Cobb MAF Block off Plate

Perrin FMIC Kit

Perrin Engine Mount Kit

Perrin Transmission Mount Kit

Perrin Radiator Stay

Perrin Radiator Shroud

Perrin Pulley Cover

Perrin GTX3076R Rotated Turbo Kit

 

[Spamby]

What's your power goal ? Crank or wheel.
What fuel?

Only thing I don't like is the I beam rods. They reduce longevity and reliability. They should only be used in really high horse engines.

 

[fuji_production]

What's your power goal ? Crank or wheel.
What fuel?

Only thing I don't like is the I beam rods. They reduce longevity and reliability. They should only be used in really high horse engines.

I dont understand. how is something that is made to withstand high hp lose longevity and reliability at lower hp?

My only issue is using expensive ass rods when you are running a gt30 that will put down 400whp...eagle rods will suffice in this scenario.

 

[Spamby]

I dont understand. how is something that is made to withstand high hp lose longevity and reliability at lower hp?

My only issue is using expensive ass rods when you are running a gt30 that will put down 400whp...eagle rods will suffice in this scenario.

I beam rods are typically heavier. The increased weight reduces bearing life. How much? I can't say but for longer life as most of us desire, H beams are probably a better choice.
They are a substantial rod and their element is extreme applications where longevity is not a desired outcome.

 

[STIKC]

I'm doing a GTX35r w/ a 93 tune and race gas tune.

550-600 wheel hp on pump gas
600-650 wheel hp on race gas

 

[Grinder34]

Why not go with the trick TIC TGVs?

PnP IM and TB?

What's the diameter on the header components? And you sure on the UEL? I dunno if you're already familiar with the KillerB stuff, but it wont crack. Most aftermarket ones will crack eventually if run hard.

Dont forget a new timing belt kit.

With rotated, does that come with a DP, or are they generally custom? I havent looked into that.

I'd get an upgraded oil pickup, and think about a bigger pan or baffle. But definitely the pickup (OEM is shit)

 

[Spamby]

I'd say I beam rods if your going power like that. Lol

Your going to really want to pay particular attention to oiling and cooling and oil cooling at those levels.
Your probably going to want to start looking at beefing the block.
There is now a lot more to the equation with those power goals.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

If you are going extra oil clearance on the rod bearing you need to do the same on the main bearing also. That will clearance match everything together (rod, main and piston). This way your oil will be compatible with everything together and you should be using 10w40 at least for this build.

I am not a fan of the Perrin FMIC. The steel components on my friends car is rusting out badly and the cancer has now spread from the FMIC to the body of the car.

Also 600 is a tall order on pump gas. Maybe on a high reading dyno you will achieve 550-600 but on a mustang you will be closer to 500 on pump gas and a 35R. I'm just being realistic here. Also this car will be slower on the street so unless you are doing this for the track the thing is going to be next to useless in real world driving conditions.

 

[STIKC]

I'm building the car to be a daily driver but the real power would be shown on the drag strip. Were looking at low nines high eights with race gas and mid to low 9s on pump gas. Calculations correct I would be around 1.5 seconds in the 60'.

I'm bore & honeing out the motor, resurfacing the flywheel, 5w-30 oil, BOSCH 3300 oil filter, etc.

I'm trying to figure out if I should stick with the AP 2 step or do a Anti-lag.

I think I'm going to do the GTX30r turbo instead of the GTX35r. I will loose horsepower but it would be a monster on the streets and strip instead of just strip. I also think the guy is smoking something about the dyno numbers and drag times. I've seen AWD cars with 30k+ in the motor that gets 8-9s. All I want is close to 500 to the ground on pump gas and mid 500s+ with 85. What do you guys think?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

The power goal of 500 is achievable but the quarter mile times are unrealistic. You're looking at low elevens, high tens maybe. Spec Ops motorsports has a full blown race EVO that is fully stripped down and they spent all of two seasons to get 9.76 out of it. They will be pushing for low 9s high 8s this time around.

The STi with no weight reduction is a pure pig. You would need 800 to propel it to the numbers you are suggesting. I don't mean to burst your bubble but it is better to be prepared for the disappointment now. To get 9's and 8's out of an sti (The correct way) is going to require $100,000 worth of mods and a 20 year + experienced tuner IMO. Anything else is going to be woefully unreliable.

I would stick with your suggestion to go with the 30R and a power goal of 500 to 550 but bank on an e85 tune for the most power. It should be streetable yet fun on the straight track. To be truly competitive on the circuit though, the 30R is not the best IMO. You need something that spools sooner yet flows well in the mid high rpms. IMO the best all around turbo is a Dom 3 or 2.5. Those will put you in the 450 range but you will have better fun in all aspects of the sport.

 

[STIKC]

I posted the times about 5 minutes after getting the email telling me those times. Thats why I clicked edit a little later and was like I think he is off on the 1/4 times lmao. I'm like there is just no way I would be in that time frame. I'm use to MazdaSpeed 3's though so wasn't sure if I was just use to FailWheelDrive. haha I'm going to do the GT30 with a 93 and 85 tune and call it quits. I do drag racing mostly, with a bunch of mexico racing in between. The mod list still good or over doing it?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Not over doing it at all... your good to go IMO

 

[STIKC]

I sent Spec Ops my sheet to see how much they would charge and if they had any opinions. Maybe I should buy parts to max out stock turbo and internals and get a tune on 93 and 85 for now and next summer focus on the build. My Suby still only has 5k miles. lol

 

[Spamby]

I enjoy my stock turbo and E85 very much. Maybe too much. Lol

 

[STIKC]

How much power you putting to the ground? Any drag times?

 

[Spamby]

330/380 - E70 - mustang dyno

I feel that there may be a bit more room in her and could hit 340/400 with a more aggressive tune. Light head work, mild cams and tgv's, pnp turbo and billet wheel along with pnp headers and 350+/400+ could easily be achieved.

I don't drag race this car but if I had to throw a number out there probably mid 12's all day and low 12's under great circumstances.
With the other work, mid to high 11's.
Not what you want but it makes a damn nice all around setup.

 

[STIKC]

That would be a nice setup to hold me over until summer 2014. My issue is I had a fully bolted MS3 that I traded to get my subaru and need to at least get to the WHP/TQ I had to make me happy. I understand the MS3 is FWD and not AWD but still, I want to at least match 330whp I had in the MS3 to be happy.

I was at the track with Intake and Stage 1 Cobb Map and ran 13.3 all day with a 3 second 60'. Sad to say those numbers was with a clynder 4 continious misfire that I didn't know about until 2 weeks later when I started to feel the cabin viberations. Can't wait to see what I'm at now with the TBE, Dyno tune 93 and 85 map. I'll find out when i get back from deployment first week or to of the new year.