CEL P0302 help

So this weekend we went to a wedding across the state and everything was good until the CEL came on with what seemed to be no symptoms wrong with the car. I went to a local autozone to pull the code and it was a P0302. I disconnected the battery later on to clear the code. The CEL stayed off for a few days and then came back on yesterday. I did some research but it doesnt really help much besides the basics that I already know.

Some history on the car, the engine was rebuilt around 8K miles ago. There were no issues and it ran decent. Its the stock block and internals with new bearings, head studs, and 07 STi heads and EVAP blocked off. Since then I had a tune with the intake and exhaust. I have not had it tuned with the new turbo since the Dyno has not been available, however running off of the wastegate the car runs fine. Its a little rich in the top end but I'm not boosting it much or driving it hard until a tune. The AFRs are all fine with normal daily driving.

When doing some research, most people find out they have a bad coil or the ringlands went. Since the tune is not aggressive I do not think its ringlands. There were no bits of aluminum stuck to the plug.

I pulled the spark plugs to check them and it does look like a misfire comparing the plugs. Then I went to a compression test.

Cyl 1 had 125 and cyl 2 had 110. The only problem, I was by myself and could not watch the gauge when cranking so I just cranked it for 4 seconds. I forgot the open the throttle when doing this. My bad. I just wanted to get a comparison. Yes the engine was hot. On a freshly rebuilt motor, it should not be this far apart.

I swapped the plug and the coil to see if the code goes to a P0301 to rule out the coil.

Plugs are gapped to .026

On a side note, this thing randomly burns a significant amount of oil. I know the turbo seal went and I replaced the turbo. The intake and intercooler is bone dry not and hasnt been burning oil. On my road trip it burned a quart. On the way back, nothing. :bang: It doesnt make sense but on the spark plugs, there is oil on the threads. Normal? Maybe valve seals?

Thoughts? Opinions? Should I just pull it and rebuild it myself?

20140528_195206.jpg
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
Oil on the plugs and not carbon deposits? That would be bad rings or valve seals. Basically.
Otherwise if that one plug is just carbon fouled, you have a rich condition.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I would try perfroming the compression test again and to do it right you need start on a warm (not hot) motor, remove all plugs, remove the break booster line to the intake manifold and crank till the needle does not move anymore. If there is that much of a difference in the compression then I suspect an issue such as ring lands or you have other issues like leaking valves or head gasket issues.

The other thing that can cause misfires with out any symptoms is poor harness connections or intermittent wiring and/or poor grounds. Also consider swapping injectors as well as coil packs.

Also looking at the picture of the plugs the one with the white insulator is running horribly lean. What ever cylinder that cam out of is likely the source of your issue be it injector, coil or ring. The other plug looks a little rich but is more close to normal color.
 
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Hmm. Cyl 1 is on the left and cyl 2 is on the right.

Cylinder 2 plug looks way fouled from misfire.

I will do the compression test again today after work following those instructions. It was done about 20 minutes after driving. I did check all grounds but I will double check the connectors and pins as well. I will swap the injectors while I am there.

If its internal, time to trade it in...
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
The last sentence! :( (please let it not be internal! You would have a missing aspect from the 04 that does not come with the 15)
 
Here are the results:

Cyl 1: 145
Cyl 2: 125
Cyl 3: 150
Cyl 4: 150

The engine was warm and it removed the brake booster hose. The P0302 came back when I drove home proving that the coil was ok. (I swapped the plug and coil to Cyl 1.) The plug looked fouled again. I put the clean one in cyl 2. I cleaned all grounds and checked all connections and all seemed fine.

The next step is bore scope it and a leak down. Its a possible injector but i doubt it.

I suspect rings, ring lands or something of that nature. This would explain the oil consumption and low compression.

Im going to talk it over with the wife tonight to see what we should do, rebuild it or trade it in asap for the dealer to deal with.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
From the results I tend to agree. Sorry to hear this and I wish you luck but there definitely seems to something up with cyl 2.
 
No warranty unfortunately. I know the guy that rebuilt it. He seems to do pretty good work. It lasted 13k miles though. I was hoping to get another 100k out of it. He said the block was honed and all new rings were installed along with ACL bearings and head studs. I will find out once I take it apart. I found another block to swap in. Before I buy that Im going to do a leak down to make sure its not the head. While I'm at it it getting new injectors and the killer b pickup.
 

ZachTTLM

New member
If you have the ability to take a look at it before making to big of a purchase list there is a chance that the ring cracked and came apart and it didn't affect the ringlands this would be do to several different things but seen it on an engine where the rings were not filed to proper gap and once pressure built caused it to break.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
What kind of power are we talking here? If you are below 450 then it would probably be prudent to just get a brand new short block. You can get them for around $1800. For reliability and longevity, no other block is as reliable as the stock block under a certain HP... IMO.

No warranty unfortunately. I know the guy that rebuilt it. He seems to do pretty good work. It lasted 13k miles though. I was hoping to get another 100k out of it. He said the block was honed and all new rings were installed along with ACL bearings and head studs. I will find out once I take it apart. I found another block to swap in. Before I buy that Im going to do a leak down to make sure its not the head. While I'm at it it getting new injectors and the killer b pickup.
 
I thought bout that as well. Maybe using a bore scope and checking the ring lands to see if it needs a ring set.

If you have the ability to take a look at it before making to big of a purchase list there is a chance that the ring cracked and came apart and it didn't affect the ringlands this would be do to several different things but seen it on an engine where the rings were not filed to proper gap and once pressure built caused it to break.
 
What kind of power are we talking here? If you are below 450 then it would probably be prudent to just get a brand new short block. You can get them for around $1800. For reliability and longevity, no other block is as reliable as the stock block under a certain HP... IMO.

Probably the 400whp mark. Dont really need more for a DD.

Its way cheaper for me to build the block I currently have.

500 pistons
300 rods
100 bearings
240 gasket kit
40 hone

1080 total

I did a leak down test and its past the rings. I swapped the injectors from 1 and 2 to see if it is an injector problem. If the injector is stuck open and washing down the cylinder, I should be able to find out in a day or so and hopefully the code changes to cyl 1.
 
So I rebuilt cyl 2. Alin stopped by to check it out. The piston was fine, it was a bad oil scraper ring causing it to burn so much oil. I rehoned the cylinder, gapped and installed new rings. There was so much carbon build up from the oil it hot tanked the head and cleaned it up. I relapped the valves and replaced the valve seals. The car kept stalling but now it seems to run fine. It is still throwing a cyl 2 misfire code. I swapped the coils again with no change. I installed new plug when I rebuilt the head and cylinder. Im going to compression test it tonight and see what happens. There is no more smoking coming from the exhaust. Trying to figure out why it still shows a misfire when everything seems to be fine.:idontgetit: It runs and drives great. I will be getting it tuned tomorrow so we can see the misfire count and figure it out from there.

If there are no results after tuning, Im going to have to trade it in for something more reliable as a DD.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]

Check the thread on false misfires i made in the time being. Maybe the answer is there.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Did you ever swap out the injectors? The original post shows the plugs, and the one that has the carbon looks fouled from to much fuel. This condition could have exasperated the degradation of the cylinder.

Also false misfires can occur from faulty or failing connections. I always recommend you remove the main engine harnesses and spray them first with electrical cleaner and then follow up with WD40 or lithium grease to moisture proof them.
 

TK-421

New member
Sounds like a electrical fault for sure, if I was closer I could bring all of my diagnostic equipment and lab scope with me. The lab scope would help determine exactly what it is, if I had to take a guess, injector driver sounds like it's shot.
 
After a few days, it is starting to run worse and is smoking like crazy. (I think the smoke is from the crappy PCV system). Its definitely misfiring. We monitored it using ROM raider. The misfire count is through the roof. Also it shakes at idle.

I did swap the injectors, plus and coils with no change. I also tried a crank sensor because doing some research was showing what was going on.

I think that the original problem is the valves. I dont think that the valve lash was set correctly using the proper buckets causing a valve to hang open.

I found a long block for a great price. I may go that route since it takes a few days to rebuild a head.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Holy crap. :(

Glad youre gonna still keep it around. :D
 
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