Frankenstein's Creation, brought to you by Hawkeye ; )

[HolyCrapItsFast]

I don't see why you can't use that block over... The pictures don't show horrible scoring and if you bore and hone to 100mm you should be just fine. Also I'm sure you can salvage at least one of the sets of rods and you can get a brand new crank for $300. If you go this route just make sure the bore and hone is done with a torque plate and matched to the pistons you buy. Otherwise you will have piston slap.

If you do get a new block already built I recommend you find a block with new rods as well as pistons. The stock rods are weak sauce and anything past 400whp is questionable.

 

[Eagleye]

Crank, pistons, bearings, rods, machine work, reassemble
Vs.
Brand new assembled short block w/ forged pistons

For the $1000 price difference ill take the 6 month warranty and take my time building a beast.

I regards to what George said, no offense but I don't want to salvage anything. That is how I end up back in this spot. For now the car will be a daily and needs to be built to be reliable. Im only looking at 350 to the wheels while I build my good block and look for another car to serve as my daily.

 

[Eagleye]

Im going to run the built heads and build up another set because the current ones do have some wear. It looks like dirt or some kind of debris got into the one head through the one oil journal at the cam causing a little scarring. Nothing to be too worried about, but is why i'll just build up a new set.

 

[Eagleye]

Okay...so I have talked and talked, and talked some more. And speculated, and blah blah blah. First off sorry for all that garbage haha.

Now, on to what is really going on.

I will be dropping off the block to be bored and honed sometime next week. I will be using the built heads. The crank may clean up or I will be going with an 08+ STI crank, the rod that blew out a bearing has some heat marks so I will be looking at some options there (opinions welcome), I will need new bearings obviously (opinions welcome).

Would love some opinions on parts above as well as any I will need to buy for the rebuild, including what kinds of sealer, etc?

 

[Eagleye]

Took in my block, cranks, and rods to the machine shop today.

His initial thoughts: Block looks like it will be good after bore and hone, the rod that had a bearing go would need replaced (so im using a different set), both cranks would need a small cut and polish so I went ahead and bought a new crank through Jordan @ Defined (thanks Jordan!)

Looks like it will cost about $300-400 for cleaning, bore/hone, and balance. Should have it back in about 2 weeks

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Sounds like a good price man. I'm happy that the block and cranks are salvageable.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

[Eagleye]

yeah I bought a new crank anyway, but they could be used in my next build or if someone here ends up needing one. but yeah, im happy with everything so far, hopefully we can get it put together within the next month. Not sure if I will be able to drive it much sooner anyway. I am having wrist surgery afterall, they are removing my scaphoid bone all together and fusing 4 bones in my wrist, throwing a plate on there with some screws and sewing me back up. So I will be out of commission for a bit after Nov. 10th :|

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

yeah I bought a new crank anyway, but they could be used in my next build or if someone here ends up needing one. but yeah, im happy with everything so far, hopefully we can get it put together within the next month. Not sure if I will be able to drive it much sooner anyway. I am having wrist surgery afterall, they are removing my scaphoid bone all together and fusing 4 bones in my wrist, throwing a plate on there with some screws and sewing me back up. So I will be out of commission for a bit after Nov. 10th :|

Ouch! well good luck with that... What the heck did you do for them to come to that end?

 

[Eagleye]

Ouch! well good luck with that... What the heck did you do for them to come to that end?

well...its an old football injury. I had surgery once and they put a screw in. It got hit a few weeks ago and fragmented the bone around the screw, needless to say that caused a little pain.

 

[Eagleye]

Weisco Pistons came in yesterday, dropped off at the machine shop today
Work should be done toward the end of next week!

 

[Eagleye]

New Endlinks are installed, tightened them to approx. 35 ft lbs. Does this sound right? It was the only number I was finding for Kartboy solid endlinks.

Spring install is underway right now, should be done tonight no problem.

I called CBRD in york, pa for a tuning quote. It will be around $550 according to Chad. So I will probably give them a shot, I have only heard good things about them from all of my buddies. Anyone with personal experience?

 

[Eagleye]

Soooo, after messing around for what feels like a year I went ahead and bought a shortblock. Everything has been way too grey..."well i dont know, yes, no, sure why not" when referring to the rebuild. I want to do this thing right.

Brand new case halves
CP Pistons
Nitrited Crank
Manley Rods
ACL Race bearings
Master Install Kit
New Oil Cooler

Now, should I buy a new oil pump to go with this? If so what size? Anything else I should replace or add?

 

[Eagleye]

Make sure the crank is properly balanced.

All will be fully balanced, thanks. Anything else? Is the oil pump an issue if it looks good?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

I might recommend the cosworth 12mm oil pump

 

[Eagleye]

View attachment 1635 Did a little paint work yesterday. Didnt get much done today since we got snow....in OCTOBER! CMON!

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

The 12mm is actually too big and causes higher oil pressures than are recommended under WOT. The 08+STi 10mm oil pump is about perfect. Thats what Im using on my build. Also, new water pump would be a smart thing.

This kinda makes no sense to me... why would more oil be a problem... I am under the understanding that they produce more volume not pressure... That is what the relief valve is suppose to prevent is excess pressure. The EJ's are prone to spun bearings and the more oil you can get to the bearings the better IMO

Also the water pump is brand new. It only has 3000 or so miles on it since it was last installed. :tup:

 

[Eagleye]

Update:

New shortblock should be here next Friday along with a new oil pump. All parts are cleaned and ready for install. Hopefully it will be up and running on the 12th or 13th.

Anyone have input on break-in oil and procedure for my build?

It was recommended by the engine builder that I use Motul 10-40 for break in and drive normally changing the oil at 500 and 1000 miles. I plan to keep the car under 4k for the initial 3 break in drives, but after that will drive "normally" as recommeneded. I have read too many threads about this and just want some straight answers from guys who have used a procedure personally. I didnt want to make another break in thread so I figured this was best (besides break in is suppose to be by your build not in general). Thanks!

 

[Z1107]

AMSOIL!!!

 

[Eagleye]

for a street, daily driver? I know they make great oil, but is it more of a preference or "this is the only oil I would run?" I know this will sound lame as hell but I like being able to walk into any parts store or walmart to get oil and i dont see amsoil around here much.

I have no problem getting it if its "the oil" but I like to stick with one brand like I did with my mustang. (I ran Castrol in that...i know *gasp* but it ran really well and i had no issues what so ever)

 

[Eagleye]

how do you recommend I go through my break in? oil weights, when to change, how to drive? I'm new to motor break ins so i was just going to follow the builder's orders (which are very generic)