Frankenstein's Creation, brought to you by Hawkeye ; )

[HolyCrapItsFast]

it was because of the brass fitting being on and off too many times and it was too crushed, but i will keep that in mind

Yeah... It's been off and on over five times! :lol:

I'm very glad nothing serious happened. You are very lucky. And quite patient :tup:

 

[Eagleye]

Did you ever have any steering stiffness or notchiness? I am guessing it is due to the leak, but I didnt think it would make it feel that ****ty.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

It will go away as you drive and the air gets out of the system. It is probably making a little noise to... That will go away also. There is a recent thread around here about air in the power steering and how to get it out.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Also there is a single wire that connects to the pump. Is that connected?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

And check the belt tension. It could be oil on the belt... I think that belt is due for replacement anyway.

 

[Eagleye]

You mean the accessory belt? I did replace that.
The small wire is connected.

And I assumed the feel was due to the leak and some air in the system, I just wanted to make sure you didn't have any issues outside of that.

Can I get the crush washers for the power steering and turbo at a parts or hardware store? Or am I going to have to go to Subaru for them?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

As long as they are the same size and are copper, I don't see any issue with something you find at a hardware store.

 

[Eagleye]

sooo apparently there is a difference...

I'm not sure whats going on, but there is still a leak at the top of the bolt. Im starting to get pissed, I cranked those things down as hard as i could without breaking something.

There is also still a slight oil leak, but im not really sure where that is coming from. It appears to be at the back somewhere around the turbo.

AFR is much better now that the exhaust leak is fixed, but there is still some work to do.

Anyone know what a good reading would be on decel? It goes over 18 right now.
At idle its between 14.5-15.5, moves around.
While accelerating it seems to flutter between 13 and 14.

 

[Eagleye]

UPDATE:

Power steering leak is fixed...at least for now haha.
I still have a slow oil leak at the rear of the motor. Might be the turbo fitting with crush washers?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Check the oil return line on the turbo. It is sometimes hard to get that to seat right. It could look like it is on but it might not be.

 

[Z1107]

Check the oil return line on the turbo. It is sometimes hard to get that to seat right. It could look like it is on but it might not be.

I had the same problem when I swapped turbos, thought I had a leak coming from the rear of the motor and it was the oil return line. That thing is a pain in the ass to seat.

 

[Eagleye]

Couple of questions for you 2.

If I remove the top mount and downpipe, should I be able access all the oil lines on the turbo (even if I newed to replace something)?

Are you referring to the banjos not seating or something else?

 

[Z1107]

You're going to have to take them off anyway to make sure the turbo is seated correctly on the oil line. It took alot of patience for that damn thing.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

You can finagle the return line if you loosen the bottom hose clamp and slide it down and then reposition it up. It is hard to get to but you can get in there if you are savvy. That is assuming the leak is coming from there. Keep in mind that there is no pressure on that hose so all it really has to do is seat around the lines. The bottom hose clamp is there just to hold it at the proper position

For the turbo feed line I recommend a -4an fitting sorta like i had... I went this route because I couldn't get the banjo fittings to seal properly

 

[Eagleye]

so after messing with this and that and wiping everything down I had my dad fire the car while i was underneath looking at the lines below the turbo. Not a damn thing. My dad got out at one point and noticed a small coolant leak at the top of the turbo and tightened that. Now unless it acts up on his way to get it inspected today, everything might be okay (im not really holding my breath on this though). SO I guess I will find out in a few hours if it is done being a bitch or not.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

How's it running other wise... Fuel trims are good now?

I would still love to see another log... I'm always paranoid.

 

[Eagleye]

Well the idle has improved dramatically when the exhaust leak was fixed.

Idle AFR: 14.8-15.0
Easy up to 3k: 14-14.5
Quickly to 3k: 12.5-13.5 (moves around thru accel)

It has good response and doesnt stumble, coming back down to idle is much smoother than before (it would want to drop to like 500 rpms before).

Still no CEL for a lean condition but it really hasnt been driven enough. It went for inspection today (4-5 mile trip each way) and did well. I am thinking about taking it to work tomorrow (3.5 miles each way) which should limit any issues while letting the motor get some heat in it.

It is not burning any oil that I have seen, but again it has not really been driven enough. I will continue to monitor the level obviously. Nothing has been in the oil (flakes or other substances).

Ultimately would you guys feel comfortable driving short distances with my AFRs (staying out of boost and under 3500k)?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Well the idle has improved dramatically when the exhaust leak was fixed.

Idle AFR: 14.8-15.0
Easy up to 3k: 14-14.5
Quickly to 3k: 12.5-13.5 (moves around thru accel)

It has good response and doesnt stumble, coming back down to idle is much smoother than before (it would want to drop to like 500 rpms before).

Still no CEL for a lean condition but it really hasnt been driven enough. It went for inspection today (4-5 mile trip each way) and did well. I am thinking about taking it to work tomorrow (3.5 miles each way) which should limit any issues while letting the motor get some heat in it.

It is not burning any oil that I have seen, but again it has not really been driven enough. I will continue to monitor the level obviously. Nothing has been in the oil (flakes or other substances).

Ultimately would you guys feel comfortable driving short distances with my AFRs (staying out of boost and under 3500k)?

AFR's seem normal... Definitely you need to drive it. :tup:

With regards to the above idle issue... Very often this happens right after an ECU reset. The ECU needs time to learn its idle trims. The way to get around this is to reset the ECU in accordance with Cobb recommendations and that is to warm the car fully prior to resetting the ECU. Once reset, start the car and don't touch the gas... let it idle for a minimum of two minutes.

Then give it a shot of gas and if it returns to a normal idle you are good to go... if not it needs more idle time. Works like a charm!

many people don't have this issue or it is less pronounce for others but it does happen even on cars that have MAF scaling perfect

I still want to see a log :lol:

 

[Eagleye]

yes i know you still want to see a log haha

I will likely send you one by/during this weekend. Tomorrow I will start driving it to work if everything continues to go smoothly. Today its raining and snowy and I just figured I would wait.

Thanks for the quick responses to let me know I am on track.

 

[Eagleye]

UPDATE:

Car has been driven to work 4 days now, and went on a 60 mile roundtrip into MD on Sunday. No leaks, numbers seem good...buttttttttt

I have a CEL.

Misfire in cylinder 1 along with the mysterious PFFFE code.
Car does not stumble or do anything when the CEL pops. We swapped the #1 and #3 coil packs. Same code for #1. Spark plug looked good. I am now thinking it should be injector related. Any thoughts, tips tricks? Thanks!