I just purchased the SMY gauge pod with the Prosport boost and AFR gauges. I have seen everyone go to the clock or the fuse box for power but why not the main cluster harness that is right there? Also where should I put the controller box for the AFR gauge?
Gauge Install
- Thread starter Boogieman98
- Start date
I can't be sure about our specific cluster, but I would generally advise against using
the main cluster harness.
A ton of electromagnetic compatibility engineering and testing is done to prevent the
cluster from becoming susceptible to environmental electromagnetic fields (such as high
power lines, airport radars, AM/FM radio transmitters, etc.) and/or from emitting RF that
could interfere with the operation of other onboard electronics.
Tapping into any main cluster lines, especially power/ground, could have adverse effects
on either the car itself or other electronics you have installed.
I would suggest using the clock wire harness or another portion of the electrical routing
in the car such as the cigarette lighter.
I know it might sound crazy, but trust me, I'm running electromagnetic compatibility tests
on the radiated RF emissions of GM gauge clusters right now.
the main cluster harness.
A ton of electromagnetic compatibility engineering and testing is done to prevent the
cluster from becoming susceptible to environmental electromagnetic fields (such as high
power lines, airport radars, AM/FM radio transmitters, etc.) and/or from emitting RF that
could interfere with the operation of other onboard electronics.
Tapping into any main cluster lines, especially power/ground, could have adverse effects
on either the car itself or other electronics you have installed.
I would suggest using the clock wire harness or another portion of the electrical routing
in the car such as the cigarette lighter.
I know it might sound crazy, but trust me, I'm running electromagnetic compatibility tests
on the radiated RF emissions of GM gauge clusters right now.
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Not more than 5 minutes after mentioning what I did above, I was talking to one of our
engineers about this and he said we had a mysterious group of instrument cluster failures
from one group of Toyotas in Texas. After further investigation, it turned out that a Toyota
dealership in Texas was installing aftermarket car alarms and the technician was using the
cluster wire harness to tap into. Somewhere along the line, a situation occured in which
just the right number of components and indicators were switching on at the same time
as a current draw from the alarm system. This sent 3 amps down the line and blew a bunch
of FET's on the circuit board that were designed to see approx. 30 milliamps.
Crazy shit happens with electronics. 10 years in the field and I'm still regularly amazed.
engineers about this and he said we had a mysterious group of instrument cluster failures
from one group of Toyotas in Texas. After further investigation, it turned out that a Toyota
dealership in Texas was installing aftermarket car alarms and the technician was using the
cluster wire harness to tap into. Somewhere along the line, a situation occured in which
just the right number of components and indicators were switching on at the same time
as a current draw from the alarm system. This sent 3 amps down the line and blew a bunch
of FET's on the circuit board that were designed to see approx. 30 milliamps.
Crazy shit happens with electronics. 10 years in the field and I'm still regularly amazed.
Well I guess we can take that as a reason not to use it. So if I use the clock will it dim like the cluster? I dont keep my cluster turned up all the way on brightness. I think it is in the middle.
I can't remember to be honest. I have the Defi setup with the triple clock pod mount.
I'm pretty sure that there is a slight difference in the illumination between having the
headlights on and off, but I don't think the gauges vary their intensity along with the
factory cluster when turning the illumination down on the wiper stick.
I'm pretty sure that there is a slight difference in the illumination between having the
headlights on and off, but I don't think the gauges vary their intensity along with the
factory cluster when turning the illumination down on the wiper stick.
usually gauges will have a seperate wire for dim/headlight control. That being said I noticed my electronics in the car acting funny when i had three gauges wired into the clock connector. It probably met its max load or amp draw and I would experience power loss and datalogging headaches. my rule of thumb if when wiring in a new electronic device would be to wire it in replacement of a device (gauge for clock) or in lieu of a device that doesnt require such an electrical demand. such as cigarette lighter that doesnt get used or fog light fuse when you dont even have foglights lol...
Maybe. I'm not saying that I know our cluster to be electrically sensitive, just that
there are safer places to tap into power, ground, etc.
there are safer places to tap into power, ground, etc.
this is all on you. but there is a reason why guys who are serious into getting every last ounce of power only run one taillight at the strip...
I used the fuse box with fuse taps. They work great no splicing. I have a mechanical prosport gauge. With the head lights on its red and with the head light off its white. My gauge is on the A pillar its hard to see the numbers when they are red during the day. I recently installed it (1 month) no problems yet.
Got it all installed. The gauge pod is not the same color and the finish of it is not as great as I thought it would have been. A little picky I guess.
What pod did you buy?
SMY Dual Gauge Pod.
Post up a pic. I want to see it.
As you can see it is not OEM color. And to be honest after looking at it I almost think it is for a right hand drive STi. Crazy I know but it sits more to the left than the OEM one does. Tell me what you think.
looks good.
