Grinder's OBP


Track Monkey
Grinder's 07 OBP

I bought my 07 off of my best friend and old roommate. He was the first owner and he babied it for the most part. When i got it in the summer of 2010 it only had about 17k on the odometer, and was pristine (new car smell even!). Since then I've slowly modified it, after spending hundreds of hours researching just about everything I've done.

My car is a daily driver in the winter, so I'm trying to keep it reasonable, and reliable. I'm also rather budget conscious: I've tried to keep everything in the "bang-for-the-buck" category.

The car now sees a few track days a year while still being my daily winter driver.

To see my daily driver, check out my journal here:

Table of Contents
Mod List (post #2 )
Pictures (post #3 )
To-Do List (post #4 )
What I've Spent (post #5 )
Wanted List (post #6 )
Installing CF trunk (post #14 )
Koni Adjustment Extenders (post #15 )
Installing 3-in-1 Gauge (post #16 )
DIY Undertray (post #17 )
DIY Undertray Redux (post #2 2)
Stoptech ST-40 BBK Installed (post #72 )

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Track Monkey
Here are all the mods I've done to the car. Some are listed more than once, if they dont fall nicely into one category (eg lightweight wheels)

Zzyzx EM Coilovers
-Custom rebound adjustment extensions for rear
Hypercoil Springs
-Spring rates currently unkown
Whiteline Max-C front camber plates
Cusco rear camber plates
Whiteline 24mm FSB (stiffest setting)
Whiteline 24mm RSB (softest setting)
Kartboy Front Endlinks
Kartboy Rear Endlinks
DIY Chassis Bridge

Weight Savings
Seibon CF trunk (painted and debadged)
Volk TE37 18x8.5" +40 wheels (for summer)
JDM Front bumper beam
Front subframe delete
Rear seat bar delete
Rear wing removed
Secondary Air Pump removed

04/05 Tail lights
Seibon CF trunk (painted and debadged)
APR GTC-200 with custom risers
RA UA mudlfaps, black with red lettering
RA-R grill mod
Red McGard spline drive lug nuts
Volk TE37 18x8.5" +40 wheels (for summer)
13.75" Front ride height
13.5" Rear ride height

WeatherTech floor mats
LED interior lighting
MadDad 3-in-1 gauge (Boost, EGT, Oil Temp)
3rd brake light and parcel tray
Innovate LC-1 Wideband

Cobb AccessPort V2
GS 3-Port EBCS
ThermoTec Turbo Wrap
Tigwerks Oil Pickup
IXIZ Air-Oil Separator
Perrin 2-piece catted DP
DW200 Fuel Pump

Hawk DTC-60 (for the track)
Stoptech ST-40 Trophy Sport 332mm BBK
ATE Superblue Brake Fluid

Fumoto Drain Plug

Awaiting install
GPMoto EL Header
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Track Monkey
Here's a list that I'll keep updated about projects in-work or to-do for the car:
Updated so higher priority closer to the top!

Not "important"
Figure out what spring rates i have!
DIY Clutch Stop
Weigh the car
Install Headers
DIY Intercooler Shroud
DIY Hood Scoop Splitter
DIY Radiator Shroud
DIY Lower Grill Guard
DIY Swaybar dustboots
DIY Swaybar lateral lock

Install Tribeca Horns
Stretch Seat Springs
Red-out Interior Lights
Paint rotor hats black
DIY Brake Ducts
Heat-tape intercooler
Heat-wrap coolant cross-pipe
Install Wideband Gauge (sensor already in)
Install HolyCrap Gauge
Fab splitter
Coilover dustboots

60k Service
- Coolant
- Spark Plugs
- Oil
- Trans/Diff Fluid
- AC Belt
- What else?
Fix brake ducts
- Reinstall passenger tubing
- Permanently affix driver's side connection at the bumper
- Heat shield passenger side roo-duct
Alignment when switching suspension
Check wiring for EGT guage
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Track Monkey
I guess I'll make this my "wanted" list, in rough order of desire/likelihood/order:

ID 1000 (maybe FIC)
IXIZ Phenolic Spacers
KSTech Weldless TGV Deletes
Coolant-cross-pipe wrap (while the TGVs are off!)
Total Bushing Upgrade

Down the Road:
35-40% Tint
Softer Springs
Louder Horns
V-Limited Lip
KB Botox Bolts
SS Brake Lines
Intake Silencer Delete
E85 Tune
Another 3-in-1 (AFR, Oil Pressure, IAT)
Turbo Inlet
Litespeed Rear Bumper Beam
Lightweight Battery
Red Interior HVAC/window/stereo lights
Hood Dampers
Radiator Shroud
Silicone Intercooler Hoses
Silicone Auxiliary Hoses
Silicone Radiator Hoses
CF or Al driveshaft (perhaps DriveShaftShop Al one)
Seibon TS-Style rear lips/apron/spats (whatever you call it) (RL0607SBIMP-TS)
Intelligent IC Sprayer Controller
Coilover Covers
Coilover Thrust Bearings
Full Detail and Paint Correcton
Smooth Underbody

Burn-Up bumper and fenders?
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Track Monkey
I dont know what else to keep here, so I'll make a list of potential vanity plates.

ITSBKWD (too clever? ITS backwards = STI)
XXXAWHP (XXX to be filled in after a dyno)
FISTI (Feisty and FI STI. Too clever again?)
X32 GM0
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System Operator
Staff member
Nice pics!


New member
Nice, I like those wheels on the OBP. And you should never add up how much it all costs, that is when you start second guessing all of your hard work.


Track Monkey
Old Post from other journal:

I finally got around to installing my CF trunk. At first, i tried to do the swap by myself, but as soon as I got the torsion bars loose i realized just how heavy that trunk is--and decided i needed a 2nd set of hands. Incidentally, i found removing the torsion bars to be super easy, as you can just tap them out with a hammer.

I had my girlfriend help me that evening, but things didnt go very smoothly. I couldnt get the trunk to latch, and more importantly, I couldnt get the screws for the support arms in more than about a half turn. I drove around (very gently!) for a few days until the weekend, when I went to a friend's house to fix everything. It turns out the guy who sold me the trunk had tried to jam the wrong thread screws into the trunk, crossthreading it. We managed to fix the holes with a tap, and everything works well now.

Getting everything aligned was another problem.
Useful thread #1
Useful thread #2

Even after angling both latches as much as i felt comfortable with, the trunk really didnt want to close properly. I ended up solving the problem by filing out the holes in the trunk support arms, allowing the whole trunk to move slightly further back in the car. I'd still like to do a little bit more filing, but it was 25 degrees outside, and it was starting to get dark.


Track Monkey
Old post from other journal:

Adjusting my the rear Konis was getting to be a pain in the butt. I fashioned an extension for each side..what i consider to be a work in progress. Its pretty cheap, about $10 a side.

1) 6mm flex socket, 1/4" drive (can substitute a 6mm socket AND a u-joint)
2) 1/4" drive extension 7-9" (6 is just barely too short, 9 is max length)
3) 1/4 thumb ratchet




On the floor is the 6" extension (too short). In the car is the 9" which is almost touching the rear windshield. So my next plan is to source an 8" extension and glue the ratchet so it doesn't ratchet. From there I'll put some lines on the ratchet so I can tell how much the wheel's been turned.


Track Monkey
Old post from other journal:

The gauge is in and the boost portion is working! So i'll take/post some pictures up tonight.

Link 1 was very helpful in figuring everything out. There were slight differences since his was just a boost gauge, and mine's the 3-in-1 but it was a great place to start.

Link 2 was interesting as it gave some alternative locations to run wiring through the firewall, although i ended up with the "behind the intercooler" locations.

Interestingly, i never removed my intercooler to do it. I managed to snake a sharp knife back there and cut it without too much difficulty. Now thats not to say i didnt *try* to remove the intercooler, i just never managed. I dont know if i'm challenged, or it normally takes 2 people (or at least a cold engine!) but I couldnt get the bottom hose to ever come off.

Link 3 Was useful for wiring.

Link 4 was the guide i attempted to use to get behind the intercooler. In detatching some of the hoses from the intercooler (step 4) i noticed some oil or oil residue in there! Yikes! I'll need to see if thats a big issue, and if theres more oil in the intercooler itself when i finally get it off!

i got the oil temp sender installed in the galley plug under the IC. What a pain to get to!
This thread was very useful for me as a how-to.


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Track Monkey
Old post from other journal:

I was just reminded that my undertray came off on track. You can see it dangling in a few pictures above! I had my undertray zip-tied on, but it came undone somehow in my first track session. As it was bent backwards pretty might the whole left side of it ground away and I ended up throwing it out at the track. I PLAN on mocking up some cardboard in a fashion similar to this:
DIY Front Undertray - NASIOC or this:
and then transfer the design to sheet metal

But I think i would add some louvers, similar to this:

More links (for later reference)
DIY Front SkidPlate/Aero diffuser - NASIOC
DIY splash guard/skid plate? - NASIOC
DIY Total Underbody Protection - DirtyImpreza Forums
DIY skid plate - NASIOC


Here's the background. I removed my front subframe and attempted to merely zip-tie the factory splash-guard back into place. The splash guard came off on one side on the freeway (which i managed to fix) and then self-destructed on the track. I decided i needed a piece there, both for engine protection and for aero, but I couldnt find any undertrays that would fit without the front subframe:

Hey guys, so i've been talking with T3h_Clap and I think we're onto something (ok, it was mostly him).

Basically its a skeleton for the diffuser that will bolt to the car. Right now I'm thinking of just four mounting points:
2x front jacking plate
2x front frame (see pic below)

splashguard mount (small).jpg

The front would be mounted to the same two holes you see his piece mounted to.

Now, on my car only ONE of those holes is threaded so I've ordered some nutserts to turn it into a threaded hole. If anyone's wondering the existing thread is M8x1.25, so that's what i ordered.

So into those two holes I'd put two long threaded rods, with a nut to keep them in place. The frame would mount flush with the jacking plate, and thread onto the rods. To allow different front clearances (for different lips, etc...) the front of the skeleton would be sandwiched between two other nuts.

I did a 30-second paint illustration:

The black is the front bumper and jacking plate. Blue is frame and bolts. Green are the nuts.

I plan on mocking up a skeleton/frame out of wood in the next week or so, and then seeing if a fab shop can make me something cheaply. Here's an example frame:

From there it would be easy to:
a) weld frame to the skidplate
b) bolt it
c) whatever else.


It finally stopped raining so i managed to get outside and mock up a preliminary frame out of yardsticks.


In case you're having trouble reading dimensions:

Distance between mounting holes:

Each diagonal is almost exactly 22"
Across the front is 14.25"
Across the rear is: I believe 3" but i need to double check
From back of plate to rear holes is: I thing its 1.25" but I also need to double check

On the other hand, after assembly of a metal version, i may decide that it's not rigid enough and add more triangulation.

Other important dimensions:
jacking plate bolt separation: roughly 2.75"-3"
Frame bolt separation: roughtly 14.25"
Front-to-back-diagonal: roughly 22"

I'll tweak it more and post up some dimensions later, but here are some teaser pics:



The two extra yardsticks are just to help keep the cardboard rigid while i tweak with it off the frame.


Well home depot has 36"x1"x1/8" aluminum bars for like $6 each or something like that. So i got four, but unfortunately i had to buy a lot of supporting tools too, but I'm sure I'll find good use for them!

Anyways, more details: The hole i was hoping to nutsert isnt big enough for the size thread (m8x1.25) as the threaded hole. My new plan is to spot-weld (maybe glue/epoxy) a nut in place on the underside of the beam over where the hole is. I also need to get a bigger drill bit to make the holes for the bolts in the aluminum. Once those are drilled I can then go about test-fitting and riveting the frame together. Then comes the aluminum flashing.

Hopefully more pics/details/instructions will soon follow!

I've got v1.0 of the undertray completed.

I've scrapped the original idea of the skeleton with the undertray attached, as my new material is significantly thicker and less "bendy." Its scrap from a friend's splitter project, so I'm not sure the technical name for it, but it consists of thin aluminium sandwiching some PVC. Consequently its very light, but very stiff and easy to work with. Ideally, i'd have the piece be maybe 4" wider than it is, but i got it for free so I can't complain. You can see that the piece isn't symmetrical, as one "wing" is bigger than the other. That's where i'd like the extra 4" on the other side.

Here's a pic of the cutout:

So as I mentioned before, the front frame has two mounting holes, only one of which is threaded:

I attempted to JB weld a nut over the second hole but i dont think i scuffed the surfaces properly and the nut was not very secure. I'm trying the JB weld again tonight. If that fails, I'll get the nut spot-welded in place.

For test-fitting I was unable to get the front passenger side properly secured, due to the lack of the threaded hole, but there *may* be a flutter issue with the wings of the plate. I've identified two holes on each side that i might use (either/both) if this ends up being an issue. If i decide i need to use those holes, it might require cutting a new tray, as the holes are very close to the corner in the big cutout towards the rear of the tray.

Here are the two mounting points to which I'm referring:


The hole closest to the front looks preferable to me, as it is farther towards the edge of the car. The plate is almost exactly 3" below the hole, so if i decide to use that mounting point we'll see if i end up with a spacer or just a sandwiched-nut type thing.


It turns out my holes were just a little off. I re-measured and managed to drill out the existing holes without making them overly large.

I installed the undertray as-is (without the extra side supports) and I'm awaiting my first test drive. My initial impression is that the extra supports are not going to be needed that far back, but maybe further forward on the "wings." We'll see!


The tray works wonderfully! And by works I guess I mean doesn't have any horrible problems. It's hard to judge any protection or fuel economy benefits, but I drove about 60 miles and hit speeds of about 75 mph without any issues.

I did an oil change as well, and installed a Fumoto drain plug--the one with the nipple. The clearance was such that I had to make a cutout for the fumoto, as the nipple protrudes slightly below the undertray. I did a mediocre job on the cutting, as it was a bunch of holes drilled out, taking many iterations. Since this is still my "V1" undertray I'm not too concerned. I can decide where, and how big, the hole should be for the V2 if/when I decide to go that route.

If i had it to do over again, i would JB weld the nut to a large fender washer. It was a pita to JB weld that under the car. I had a problem with the nut not holding. Anyways, I'd then JB weld the fender washer to the car, and have a lot more surface area holding it on.

Here are a few quick pics of the completed thing on the car. Sorry for the quality but the car's not jacked up and I'm using a cellphone.



Distance between mounting holes:

Each diagonal is almost exactly 22"
Across the front is 14.25"
Across the rear is: I believe 3" but i need to double check
From back of plate to rear holes is: I thing its 1.25" but I also need to double check
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Track Monkey
After watching this video:

I started looking into dash-cams. It turns out there are a few good FREE programs for android OS, so i've downloaded a few already. Right now I'm using Daily Roads, which is working well for me. The auto-start on car-dock is a little glitchy, but other than that its working well.

Of course, my car mount had the camera blocked off. Nothing a drill couldnt fix! I didnt get the hole EXACTLY centered, so the upper right portion of the image is dark, but thats a pretty boring part of the video anyway.

Next I'll have to try:
AutoBoy Blackbox
Autoguard Blackbox (has a free and upgraded/pay version)

Anyone have any experience with these, or recommendations of others to try?


Track Monkey
Put the summer wheels back on. :tup:
This winter hasn't happened yet, so it probably never will.


Track Monkey
I thought a completed version of my skidplate (see post 17) deserved its own post. The other post was getting too long!

If you didnt want to read the earlier post here's the gist:
I removed my front subframe and the factory plastic tray no longer fit well/at all. I wanted some protection and better airflow under the hood, but every skidplate i found was exclusively FOR the aftermarket subframe. Oswald had an adapter, but it wasn't worth the cost. I spent a long time, and almost no money :)tup:) and came up with this:


I plan on cleaning it up and removing various bits of tape etc... in the near future.

I did make one or two small mis-measures. You can see the two BIG holes aren't level. That wasn't intentional! They'll both work, just the one on the right is centered, and the one on the left is as offset as it can be and still work. You can also see that at the top the first vertical cut is deeper on the left than the right. Functionally that doesn't matter, its just ugly when its stood up like that.

I spent WAY too much time on that silly thing from idea to product, but I guess how it goes. I guess I'll post a how-to if there's any interest. I may just do it even if there isnt any interest! :lol:
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