Gunk in Breather lines

So now it's smoking like a siv, have gunk in the breather lines and y-pipe. should i run seafoam through the crankcase again. should i drop the oil pan see what it looks like. maybe antifreeze in the oil. cell phone messing up so cant get any pics or videos right now.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I don't think seafoam will do it but you could try. You may have to break down the entire blow by system and clean out the gunk from every hose yourself. Also remove the PCV and clean it and make sure it is functioning. It should rattle when you shake it.

I also strongly recommend a compression test be done. Once you rule out compression and blow by system issues, then it is likely turbo related.

The gunk is of concern because that means excess moisture in the oil. That can get there through either poor crank case ventilation or poor ring seal causing to much blow by or coolant is getting into the oil. There are your clues. :tup: The gunk can also build up if you are not driving long enough and allowing the car to warm up enough. This happens in the winter more than in the summer. My car use to do this because my work is only minutes from my house and it would build condensation in the blow by system and accumulate moisture. My solution was to install a good catch can both from the PCV and the blow by ports on the valve covers.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
There is a good chance it is the turbo or a combination of turbo and sludge. You need to remove the down pipe and inspect the turbine side of the turbo, but I suspect with all the oil I see, it is not a good sign
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
that first picture looks like the gunk that builds up when you dont get your oil hot enough, often enough. Moisture WILL get into the oiling system, its not air-tight. But when the oil gets hot enough, the water evaporates out and the gunk doesnt form.

That second picture looks like a turbo is having problems.
 
Thanks @Holy and @Grinder, had to leave her at the office not wanting to do anymore damage so took a taxi home. Hopefully it's only the turbo and no engine damage, will replace tomorrow since I'll have all day and the tools to work on it.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Keep us updated. :tup:
 
Got the turbo switched here is what it looked like. 20150406_110131.jpg looks like I had a VF48 and didn't know it. Got the VF39 Installed did an oil change and topped off the radiator. Took a spin seems to be running good will find out for sure when I go home.
 
Seems to be running OK except for the boost. Not getting any pressure 1428359024170.jpg this is the highest it will go, has not hit positive boost yet
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
WIth the car running and idling, look for i think it's A/F learned. And listen for hissing. I had my BOV night tightened once and couldn't get boost.
 
Well no luck with the VF39 it's gone too, so bummed right now and wife a little POed gunna have to spend more money ugh.
 
Yeah momma already mad she spent $300 for parts for my prelude don't come in till Monday, her piercing eyes better not ask for more money right now looks like some of my watches are going on ebay.
 
So here's the VF39 20150407_222813.jpg am sure it is gone, hopefully with watch auction will get a new on and maybe get one or both rebuilt
 
Seeing that I'll be buying a turbo, should I go with a td05 get series or a vf39 or 48. The td05 are cheaper but would it be better than the stock turbo. Not looking at anything big don't see myself going with more horse power maybe 400hp tops.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Would that be an 18G or a 20G. Both use the TD05 center cartridge but the 20G also uses the TD06 center cartridge

The 18G is closer to the VF48, The 20G will get you closer to the 400HP mark faster and keep you there longer.

The advantage with the VF series is they are ball bearing design and the TD series are Journal.
 
Thanks @Holy, The 20G sounds good. I figure I will need a tune with it also. Don't plan on any upgrades just want to keep it close to stock as I can.
 
What about the VF series twin scrolls 36, 37, 38 and 42. Been doing some more reading and think it was @Batmobile that had mentioned in another post about the twin scroll.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Twin-scroll turbos definitely have their advantages. To make the most of it though, you should run an equal length header with matching up-pipe (factory is un-equal length, which produces the classic USDM Subaru rumble). I'm not positive, but I think it is possible to get an up-pipe to feed a twin-scroll turbo that would mate up to the factory UEL header.

Going from single to twin-scroll (and doing it the right way) can be very expensive.
 
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