HELP! Engine blew :(

Jennaboo32

New member
Hey guys. So my engine blew yesterday on my 06 :( I need some help deciding what to do. The block has 150k on it. It was the fourth cylinder that went. Not sure exactly what all was damaged yet. (block wasn?t split open yet) The fourth bearing does not look good. I need to know if I should build my block (if it can be) or buy another stock motor.And some tips. Any help at all would be great. Anyone who knows me knows this car is my life and I just want to do the right thing and really get some good knowledge before I start blowing money that I don?t have.
 
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IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Are you serious? What happened?
 

ZachTTLM

New member
The decision of using this block versus getting a replacement block would really depend on the damage to the current block. If the block itself has minimal wear that is machinable I would say reuse it. If there are fractures, cracks, large grouges/grooves, then start with a fresh one. Breaking the block open and having it inspected would be the first start.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Hey Jenna... what are your future plans for the car. If you plan on mostly street driving with the occasional sprint at an HPDE event then the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to simply replace the short block provided the heads and turbo are okay. But that all has to be investigated. You might take this oportunity to have the heads machined for flatness and even a mild porting and bowl blending. Also if you are doing the work your self you can save a lot in labor costs. Since you would be replacing and not building, you need not worry about assembly of the engine... it's pretty much drop it in and go.

Then I would take the original block and build it on the side and over time thereby spreading the costs over time and minimizing the impact to your pocket. This way if (and when) it happens again OR you have bigger plans for the car, you will have a built motor ready to go.

Also when all is said and done you need to have a proper tune. This is generally the main reason why this happens in the first place. That and/or oil starvation
 
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ZachTTLM

New member
^^ good point holy, didnt think about taking that avenue. Jenna take in mind that this is making sure the replacement short block you are getting is in good condition with no issues.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I believe you can get a brand spanking new one on line for anywhere between $1700 and $2000... Make it happen Zack! :lol:
 

Jennaboo32

New member
It is horrible!! I miss her already. I was NOT driving the car at the time of it being blown. I dont know exactly what happend when it happend. All I know is the person I let drive it is a friends brother who ACTUALLY owns a machine shop! What are the odds I know. I told him before he took it you break it you buy it, you blow it you build it. So all of my labor for the build would be free. The only thing I need to help with is parts. He actually got the engine out yesterday and just waiting on a tool to get the pullys off where the timing belt is so we can crack open the block. But I still don't know if I should really build it or get a new one. The turbo I have is bad and the waste gate is cracked. So I need a new turbo too. Not sure how the heads look yet. I was just about to get her re-tuned to :( But she was never starved for oil trust me. She drank it like a fish. I checked the oil pretty much everyday. But this is all new to me. I'm just trying to get as much info/input on what to do, parts for the build if I do build the block, things I sould replace while its out, ext.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I can give you my input since I have been here 6 times personally myself :lol: Not to mention all of the builds I have helped with thus far.

Things you will need no matter what you do...

- Master Engine Gasket kit, around $250-300 (If you are just replacing the block then you could get only the individual gaskets you need.)
- Timing Belt kit, Gates, w/water pump and all idler pulleys, around $350.
- Break-in oil, OEM oil filter or Beck Arnely oil filter, around $30-50
- Coolant, $20
- Valve Stem Seals (Comes with the master gasket kit but I like supertech seals)
- Clean and surface the heads at a minimum
- Turbo to Down-pipe gasket
- Up-pipe to turbo gasket

Thing you need if you are rebuilding the block...

- Above mentioned items.
- Gray silicone or fujibond.
- Rods, Manley H beam, Eagle H beam are good for around 600whp. If you are looking for serious rods then Manley turbotuff rods, Pauter, Carrillo. H beam rods will cost between $300-350 and the aforementioned I beam rods will run in excess or $800.
- Pistons, Wiesco, Manley, they are coated and will run from $450-550.
- ACL Race bearings with extra oil clearance about $120
- Assembly lube
- Proper machine work. Since your guy is providing the labor, No charge :D

Things I think you should consider replacing while your in there...

- Clutch and Flywheel
- Motor and Trany mounts. GroupN would suffice
- Turbo Inlet... The stock one sucks balls.
- Oil Pick-up Tube. I do not recommend the KillerB or the Covert. I recommend you use the stock unit but re-enforce it by brazing a steel collar around the pipe where it meets the flange. Discuss this with your machinist. He should be able to figure it out. The reason I suggest this is because nothing flows better than the stock unit. It is just that the stock unit is weak sauce and can crack... and they do.

Of course others will have other ideas and these are only my preferences and opinions.
 
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Jennaboo32

New member
Thanks for the tips! This is exactly what I need! I did replace the clutch and inlet already. I have a master gasket kit, oil pump, and water pump already! The timing belt was just replaced in jan. but I'm gonna get a new one again. What about the top end? Do you think I should do anything to that while in there?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I would also get a new OEM oil cooler, bearing material will be stuck in there and will dislodge upon start up and spread the material throughout the block. Which will then cause more issues.

+1 :tup:

Thanks for the tips! This is exactly what I need! I did replace the clutch and inlet already. I have a master gasket kit, oil pump, and water pump already! The timing belt was just replaced in jan. but I'm gonna get a new one again. What about the top end? Do you think I should do anything to that while in there?

Top-end meaning heads, valve train? or just on the top of the motor?

For the heads I would just stick with the basics. Clean and inspect everything, surface, replace valve stem seals, If needed - a three or five angle valve job... Lap the valves at the very least, mild porting and bowl blending.

For the intake you can do TGV deletes. That is always a modification that nets you positive results. And if you are going bigger turbo, some larger injectors are recommended. You might also want to take this opportunity to replace the fuel pump if you do decide to go with larger injectors.

All of this stuff that was discussed will net you some noticeably better power and drivability together.

Oh and lets not forget the tune. It is very important you find someone who know what they are doing, and more importantly, knows Subaru!
 

ICY STi

New member
Wow this is one hell of a thread...

Jenna I'm sorry this happened to you but awesome topic to get a lot of great I for from the community. This is why we exist.

I will start my build around the new year so this is an awesome thread I could have at my disposal. Hopefully I won't need to use it though. Haha
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
Ouch! being frustrated is frustrating, to say the least? Sorry this happened to you.
If you still have some the old oil left, you might send a sample off to someone like Blackstone to see if they can see anything in an oil analysis. Perhaps the oil may have been an issue? Make sure to tell them that the motor let go.
If it is a rod bearing, as you stated it possibly could be, oil galleys can be become clogged and prevent effective oiling to such things as rod bearings. With the age of the engine, it may be just old age and sludge.
If you can salvage your block, make sure to have it vatted and magnafluxed prior to assembly to find any cracks.
These guys have given some really good advice. I would say take this impromptu opportunity to build better and stronger.

Keep us posted!
 

ZachTTLM

New member
Thank you for staying on this Holy! Sorry Jenna was in the shop most of the day wasnt able to follow this thread the whole way. Just played some catch up. Holy is on par with recommendations and is a very solid source on to build. Feel free to PM for pricing on parts, I would be happy to hook you up as price will help you make the decision of which way to go I am sure. Were you on a stock turbo or did you have an aftermarket set up? If on stock I would suggest considering a Blouch set-up due to the cost of a new stock turbo and the improvements that can be achieved out of the Blouch set-ups.
 

Jennaboo32

New member
Thank you for staying on this Holy! Sorry Jenna was in the shop most of the day wasnt able to follow this thread the whole way. Just played some catch up. Holy is on par with recommendations and is a very solid source on to build. Feel free to PM for pricing on parts, I would be happy to hook you up as price will help you make the decision of which way to go I am sure. Were you on a stock turbo or did you have an aftermarket set up? If on stock I would suggest considering a Blouch set-up due to the cost of a new stock turbo and the improvements that can be achieved out of the Blouch set-ups.

I had a stock turbo on it. But my waste gate is cracked. So I will need to look into other turbo's. I am thinking of doing a external waste gate too.
 

Jennaboo32

New member
Thank you all for the tips and advice! This is some really great info. I am looking into just buying a new bottom end as long as my heads are ok. It's the fastest and cheapest way and I just need my car back on the road. Any advice/tips for that?
 

Jennaboo32

New member
Jenna, u have an 06 STI Correct? The VF39 is very prone to wastegate cracks and almost every single one of them has one, as a matter of fact, my turbo has one, it doesn't effect performance what so ever. My turbo still runs like clockwork and made 338 Whp and 403 AWTQ on E85. So dont write ur VF39 off because of a waste gate crack

Yes 06 STi. So it is ok to use my turbo even though the wastegate is cracked? If I were to look into other turbos what would be a good size. I want to go a little bigger then stock but not huge.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I would recommend the blouch 20GXT. Good top end, good spool, good reliability, good support, it is capable of 400whp on pump.

For overall street driving and autoX it is a good match
 

Jennaboo32

New member
Another question lol. My engine had 150k when it blew (yes I drive a lot lol) should I think about rebuilding my stock turbo if I plan on keeping it?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
IMHO if it is cracked in any way, it is toast and you might as well just replace it. It may not be easy to have it rebuilt or even at all and it may not be cost effective in the long run. Usually when people start experiencing problems with the stock turbo they just use that as an excuse to upgrade :lol:

You would do better with either of the following turbos as a cost effective solution...

Blouch 16GXT (closest to stock)
Blouch 18GXT (Great spool great mid and some extra top end)
Blouch 20GXT (good spool, good mid and great top end)

FP also make equivalents so you might want to check them out also

What ever you do, do not look to Ebay for any turbo solution. I have pesonally tested these turbos and can say beyond any doubt that they are total shit and you would be lucky to get 200 miles out of them. Stick with the name brands because in this case you get what you pay for.
 
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fdrx728

New member
I'm in the exact same boat. I have an 04 Sti completely stock that just threw a rod bearing. Sad thing is it only has 86,000 miles on it. I am just going to go with an oem block. The big thing I'm wondering about is an 10103AC050 vs 10103AC030. I read that either will work but the AC050 has a nitride crank. Which one should I order? Also, What is the deal with the 704 casting? Any advice would help. I figured it would be applicable to the op because they have the same problem

Jeremy
 
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