I can give you my input since I have been here 6 times personally myself :lol: Not to mention all of the builds I have helped with thus far.
Things you will need no matter what you do...
- Master Engine Gasket kit, around $250-300
(If you are just replacing the block then you could get only the individual gaskets you need.)
- Timing Belt kit, Gates, w/water pump and all idler pulleys, around $350.
- Break-in oil, OEM oil filter or Beck Arnely oil filter, around $30-50
- Coolant, $20
- Valve Stem Seals
(Comes with the master gasket kit but I like supertech seals)
- Clean and surface the heads at a minimum
- Turbo to Down-pipe gasket
- Up-pipe to turbo gasket
Thing you need if you are rebuilding the block...
- Above mentioned items.
- Gray silicone or fujibond.
- Rods, Manley H beam, Eagle H beam are good for around 600whp. If you are looking for serious rods then Manley turbotuff rods, Pauter, Carrillo. H beam rods will cost between $300-350 and the aforementioned I beam rods will run in excess or $800.
- Pistons, Wiesco, Manley, they are coated and will run from $450-550.
- ACL Race bearings with extra oil clearance about $120
- Assembly lube
- Proper machine work. Since your guy is providing the labor, No charge
Things I think you should consider replacing while your in there...
- Clutch and Flywheel
- Motor and Trany mounts. GroupN would suffice
- Turbo Inlet... The stock one sucks balls.
- Oil Pick-up Tube. I do not recommend the KillerB or the Covert. I recommend you use the stock unit but re-enforce it by brazing a steel collar around the pipe where it meets the flange. Discuss this with your machinist. He should be able to figure it out. The reason I suggest this is because nothing flows better than the stock unit. It is just that the stock unit is weak sauce and can crack... and they do.
Of course others will have other ideas and these are only my preferences and opinions.