How to make the GR steering more stiffer!?

I installed steering bushing and Cusco steering rack brace.

Still the steering feels like empty and you feel like you loose traction when you turning.

Note: I have 15mm spacers and sway bars. Tyres is the stock Dunlop with 25k miles.
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
I installed steering bushing and Cusco steering rack brace.

Still the steering feels like empty and you feel like you loose traction when you turning.

Note: I have 15mm spacers and sway bars. Tyres is the stock Dunlop with 25k miles.

The vagueness and feel of loosing traction is probably due to your spacers.
By adding wheel spacers you increase the the scrub radius, positive. When cornering with spacers, you increase the lateral force applied to the tire but decrease the vertical force or weight to help plant the tire.
Correcting camber and caster, negative/positive, respectively, to help facilitate tire plant and steering feel, is very beneficial.
Tires also play a roll. Factory dunlops are known for being less than stellar. Changing those may help a bit.
Adding swaybars and springs or a spring/strut combo will greatly improve handling and traction.

But, your spacers are likely the culprit.
 
Thanks man will remove the Spacers.
I forgot to mention that I have RCE yellow springs.

Do you have any suggestions for good alignment that will help better steering feel?
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Stock struts with rce yellows?
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Thanks man will remove the Spacers.
I forgot to mention that I have RCE yellow springs.

Do you have any suggestions for good alignment that will help better steering feel?

Waiting on some good alignment numbers from the experts. I'd imagine [MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] and others that track their cars could help us out.

If we compile some good data, we can copy/paste it into it's own thread and make it a sticky!
 
It is lower. Better on street bumps, body roll decreased but still the sway bars is the best suspension mod i have installed.
If you dont have sway bars get one.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
It is lower. Better on street bumps, body roll decreased but still the sway bars is the best suspension mod i have installed.
If you dont have sway bars get one.

Haha im far from stock. The only thing i need are struts and springs to be installed this spring. Hopefully everything combined will feel great!

:ty:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Then go for a coilovers. I tried Tien and ohlins. Amazing response and road feel.

Already have kyb struts with rce yellows collecting dust. :lol: they just need to be installed thats all.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Already have kyb struts with rce yellows collecting dust. :lol: they just need to be installed thats all.
Those will be great!
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Also, think about adding a Whiteline Roll Center Adjust kit to any STi that has been lowered. A slight drop in ride height probably doesn't necessitate a RCA kit, but if I remember correctly, a car dropped 1" or more should see improved handling with a RCA kit. The geometry of the suspension is optimized for factory ride height. When you lower the car, certain parameters are now out of tolerance, so to speak. An RCA kit corrects this issue. Read more about them from Whiteline, they often have a lot of good info on their parts because they actually track test them extensively, unlike some other brands.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Copied directly from Whiteline's website...

NOTES: IMPORTANT
Reduces roll/bump steer - essential for lowered cars

PRODUCT BENEFITS
KCA313 is designed to raise the front roll-centre geometry by using specially engineered ball-joints & tie rod ends while still maintaining original steering geometry. Front roll geometry actually encourages roll the lower you go. Testing proves that raising the front roll-centre resulted in a substantial increase to front roll resistance & a significant reduction in suspension compression of the outside front wheel during cornering (less roll). This improves weight distribution & maintains a better camber angle which ultimately improves front grip. The overall outcome is significantly reduced understeer through reduced front wheel compression as well as improved steering precision & vehicle stability.
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy
Copied directly from Whiteline's website...

NOTES: IMPORTANT
Reduces roll/bump steer - essential for lowered cars

PRODUCT BENEFITS
KCA313 is designed to raise the front roll-centre geometry by using specially engineered ball-joints & tie rod ends while still maintaining original steering geometry. Front roll geometry actually encourages roll the lower you go. Testing proves that raising the front roll-centre resulted in a substantial increase to front roll resistance & a significant reduction in suspension compression of the outside front wheel during cornering (less roll). This improves weight distribution & maintains a better camber angle which ultimately improves front grip. The overall outcome is significantly reduced understeer through reduced front wheel compression as well as improved steering precision & vehicle stability.

I have the RCA and can say it makes a difference between uncorrected and corrected steering angles on a lowered suspension.
 
I actually feel like the 08 5 spoke rims make the steering feel more stiff compared to my stock BBS'S. Like the steering was designed with those 5 spokes in mind and they never changed it when they went to the 10lb lighter wheels
 

Spamby

Meat Product Toy

It just really depends on what you want from the car and how you use the car, primarily.
For a normal road going car:
I may reduce front camber to about -1.0 for the sake of contact patch and even tire wear.
I'd take some of the negative rear camber out to help with tire wear and even wear patterns when rotating the tires.
I like postive caster and positive caster helps with camber changes during cornering. It also can increases stability at speed. Steering feel becomes heavier as cambers increased positively. I'd add more.
I'd keep toe as close to zero as possible, maybe a smidgen toe-in to err with caution and to increase stability in a straight line. Though, toeing in can increase under steer and a bit less cornering performance, keeping toe inwards or at zero is probably better suited for road going cars. Caveat is that the front drive cars vs. rear drive cars should be different. Front drive being a bit toed out to resist the load imposed by the powered axles up front and settling to zero toe under load or throttle. Rear drive settling to zero from toe-in as front end is being pushed by the rear drive axle.

If your wanting to track the car, alignment will be defendant on the track and type of racing your doing. Considerations should be made and probably some compromises if the car is a dual purpose vehicle.

Another consideration some people fail to mention is compensating for road crown. Roads are usually built with a crown in the middle to facilitate water runoff in either direction. If your In an area that drives on the right side of the road, you'll want to have your alignment altered on the passenger side of the car, reduction in settings. The opposite is the case for left road drivers. What this does is helps keep the car tracking straight rather than drifting to the bottom of the slope. If you don't correct for road crown, the car will drift to the bottom of the slope and you'll be counter steering a lot. This counter steer will cause the tires to scrub and decrease the tire life as well as be a a real displeasure to drive.
 
[MENTION=1507]Spamby[/MENTION]! great info. I want to have heavier steering feel a little bit. My car is DD no intend to track it.
 
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