GD LJ's E85 STi: Addicted To Suspension Mods!

icudruln

New member
LJ's E85 STi: Retune May 3rd, Igotasti sticker on!

In the following pages, you'll find all kinds of info on my 2004 STi. I picked it up in January of 2009, with just over 32,000 miles on it, completely stock. I knew what I was getting myself into, and stock lasted all but 5 days. It began with my buddy parting out his STi, and the rest is history.

Current News
I'm mainly planning on doing suspension mods until the car is very tight feeling, plus I'm very undecided on my future power mods (i.e. rotated or not).

Goals
1. Fun
2. Reliable
3. Well built, all around
4. HPDE and autrocross in 2012-2013

Table of Contents
Mod List - Post #1
Pictures - Post #2
Dyno Graphs & Datalogging - Post #3
What Tools Should I Buy? - Post#12

Black = Installed, Red = Waiting to Be Installed Green = Future Mods

Engine
Killer B Ultimate Oil Pickup Tube
Forge Manual Boost Controller
Shell Rotella T-6 5w40 Full Synthetic Oil
Purolator Premium Plus Oil Filter
Killer B Radiator Shroud
Greddy 10MM Oil Catch Can
Subaru Genuine Coolant
Mishimoto Radiator Hoses

Induction
K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake
Gimmick Motorsports 2.4" Silicone Turbo Inlet
TGV Deletes

Exhaust
Perrin Catted Divorced Wastegate Downpipe
Invidia N1 Race Catback Exhaust
Vibrant Exhaust Gaskets

Fuel & Spark
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
OEM Fuel Filter
Relocated Fuel Pressure Regulator
NGK Iridium One Step Colder Plugs
T1R Top Feed Fuel Rail Conversion
T1R Top Feed Fuel Rails
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Top Feed Fuel Injectors
Top Feed TGV Deletes
Stainless Steel Fuel Lines & Misc Fittings

Drivetrain & Drive Line
Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushing
Motul Gear 300 75w90 Transmission Fluid
Motul PA90 LSD Rear Differential Fluid
ACT-XTSS Clutch
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
AMS Stainless Steel Clutch Line
TiC Transmission Crossmember Bushings
TiC Rear Differential Mount Bushings
Kartboy Rear Diff Outrigger Bushings
Beatrush Motor Mounts
Beatrush Tranny Mount
Beatrush Forged Pitchstop

Suspension & Bracing
TiC Giuyngmyo Fender Braces
Litespeed Rear Chassis Bridge
Whiteline Rear Subframe Bolts
Whiteline 24MM Rear Adjustable Sway Bar
Whiteline Adjustable Rear Ball Link Endlinks
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Whiteline 24MM Front Adjustable Sway Bar
Whiteline Adjustable Ball Link Front Endlinks
Whiteline Race Anti Lift Kit
AST 4100 Coilovers
Vorshlag Front & Rear Camber Plates
Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit
Whiteline Adjustable Rear Lateral Links
Whiteline Toe Lock Kit
STi Trailing Links
Litespeed Rear Bumper Beam
Oswald Front Bumper Beam
Oswald Subframe Brace

Exterior
Pillarless Grill
V-Limited Replica Lip
Cleared Headlights
Autospeed License Plate Delete
Wingless Trunk
Debadged Doors
Debadged Trunk
Nationwide Productions Sticker
IGOTASTI.com Stickers
Debadge Fog Light Covers

Interior & Electronics
AEM UEGO Wideband - broken
OEM Boost Gauge
Tactrix Openport 2.0
Killer B Type R Delrin Shift Knob
Bride Vios III Low Max Seats
WRX Door Cards
Wedge Engineering Custom Seat Rails
ATI Clock Pod
Defi Red Racer Boost
Defi Red Racer Oil Temp
Defi Red Racer Oil Pressure
AEM UEGO Wideband
Braille Battery Terminals

I.C.E.
Alpine CDA-X303
Pioneer Speakers
Clifford Alarm

Brakes
Stoptech Posiquiet Brake Bads
ATE Superblue Brake Fluid
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace
DBA 4000 Front Brake Rotors
Project Mu B Force Front Brake Pads
DBA 4000 Rear Brake Rotors
Project Mu B Force Rear Brake Pads

Wheels & Tires
17x7.5" OEM BBS in Gold
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec 235/45R17
Nitrogen Inflated Tires

Weight Reduction
See Post #2

Thank Yous
IGotaSTi.com - Great community and support
Cygnus Performance - Great pricing and customer service
Apex Performance - Great pricing, customer service, and getting parts many vendors don't carry
The Boost Creep LTD - Tuning
HolyCrapItsFast - Helping diagnostics and explaining complicated things
Joey.Lisano - Giving honest reviews, insight, and tips and helping guide my mod path
BadlandsRacer - The car that first inspired me on my mod path, and a car I'll always be in love with

tankspark.jpg
 
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icudruln

New member
Weight Reduction, courtesy of AnorexicSTi

2004 USDM STi Stock Weight: 3,289 lbs
2004 USDM STi Stock Ratio: 10.96 lbs per hp

Weight reduction will be as much of a priority in my build as any other modifications. Simply put, weight = power. It if often believed that for every 10 lbs you remove, that's 1whp, not to mention positively affecting vehicle handling, and in some areas, reducing rotational mass.

Note: Anything removed will be noted as "- xx lbs". Aftermarket parts will note the difference from stock part to aftermarket part, i.e. "- xx lbs" with the stock part's weight in parentheses (xx lbs).

Removed Spare Tire - 33 lbs
Removed Spare Tools - 7 lbs
Removed Spare Tire Cover - 4 lbs
Removed Rear Seat Belts - 12.5 lbs
Removed Rear Mid Seat Belt - 5 lbs
Removed Rear Seat Belt Brackets - 2 lbs
Removed Child Seat Brackets - 2 lbs
Removed Rear Seat Support Bar - 16 lbs
Removed Floor Mats (4x) - 6 lbs
Removed Carpet - 7 lbs
Removed Trunk Liner - 5 lbs
Removed A, B, C Pillar Covers - 10.5 lbs
Removed Sun Visors - 1 lb
Removed Visor Thing Above Rear View Mirror - 1 lb
Removed All Sound Deadening Material - 11 lbs
Removed Ash Tray - 0.5 lb
Removed Coin Holder - 0.5 lb
Removed Metal Piece in Center Console - 1 lb
Removed Dead Pedal Cover - 1 lb
Removed Firewall Insulation - about 25 lbs
Removed Door Sill Covers - 2 lbs
Removed Rear Tow Hook - 2 lbs
Removed Air Snorkel - 2 lbs
Removed Turbo Heat Shield -1.75 lbs
Removed Alternator Cover - 0.5 lb
Wingless Trunk - 17 lbs
Removed front seat sliders - 2 lbs
Removed Rear Seats - 18 lbs
Removed U Brace - 27lbs
Perrin Catted Downpipe - 11 lbs (stock is 22 lbs)
Invidia N1 Race Catback - 11.5 lbs
K&N Short Ram Intake + 1 lb
TiC Fender Braces - 1.75 lbs

Current Shed Weight: 238 lbs
Current Projected Weight: 3,051 lbs
Current weight/hp Ratio: 9.16 lbs per hp
 
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icudruln

New member
Pictures & Videos

Day One

sti2.jpg


stiandspecv.jpg


Debadged Trunk, Stage 2 Install, Rally Armor Mudflaps

S7301470.jpg


Detailed, Cleared Headlights

S7301473.jpg


Installing Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R 235/45R17

STiatwork.jpg


First Mountain Cruise

kencaryl.jpg


Changing Rear Diff Fluid

booty.jpg


First E85 Fill Up

LastWingedPic.jpg
 
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IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Make it a gang-bang! I'm in! Join my 04 group and become a SPONSOR! :) You then can get a cool avatar and much more!
 

icudruln

New member
Make it a gang-bang! I'm in! Join my 04 group and become a SPONSOR! :) You then can get a cool avatar and much more!

:rofl: I'll be joining next Friday. Payday!

I feel like I need to make myself useful around here and make up some How Tos or something...
 

icudruln

New member
Recommendations of Tools to Work on Your Subie

This will definitely be a work in progress, but I'd like to have something out there for people new to the DIY world. Feel free to add recommendations to anything not listed, or certain manufacturers.

When it comes to adding an array of tools to your garage, it can be very intimidating. Where do you start? How much do you spend? What's good and what's junk? I've always recommended having a basic set of tools and accessories, and adding to it by buying certain tools you need for a particular install.



Tool Manufacturers
Snap On - Rarely dissapoints. Typically the most expensive. Made in USA. Buy here for stuff you don't want to break that you'll use frequently.
Craftsman - Solid all around, many say they're not as good as they used to be. Some tools now made in China. Average pricing. No questions asked, lifetime return policy through Craftsman and Sears. Note: Not ALL tools have this policy.
Kobalt - Comparable to Craftsman. Most people like Craftsman, as they're more of a proven name. Find Kobalt Tools at Lowe's.
Harbor Freight - Great for those tools you'll use once or twice, or if you just want something cheap.
Dewalt - Very quality power tools all around, relatively inexpensive.
Makita - Similiar to Dewalt, comparable pricing.
Black & Decker - Solid all around, not the best, not the worst, doesn't break the bank.



Safety
Clear Shield Safety Glasses - Nothing worse than getting dust, debris, dirt, or even worse, metal shavings in your eye. You can't work on a car without your eyeballs.
Array of Safety Gloves - Latex/Nitrile gloves are ideal 90% of the time. Heavy duty cloth gloves are very good for exhaust work due to heat resistance.

Jacks, Jackstands, & Accessories
2 Ton Hydraulic Floor Jack - I personally like low profile jacks, as they're more useful for lowered cars. Buy quality here.
4x Jack Stands - Safety here, don't cheap out. Most are rated to certain weight.
4x Wheel Chocks - Cheap, and useful when you don't want your car rocking back and forth when you're yanking on stuff while you're laying underneath it.


Hand Tools
1/4" Metric Drive Ratchet & Socket Set - Great for a lot of small bolts
3/8" Metric Drive Ratchet & Socket Set - The majority of bolts you take off will be easily done with this drive set
1/2" Metric Drive Ratchet & Socket Set - For those big bolts with higher torque specs, this is the choice
Breaker Bar - When that torque is too high for you to break loose, or that bolt is rusted to hell
Array of Flat Head Screw Drivers - Very useful for multiple projects. Personally, I always end up using some for just about anything
Array of Philips Screw Drivers - You won't use these very much on the Subie, but they're a basic, cheap tool to have
Array of Flex Joint Sockets - Don't you hate when that bolt is in a hard to reach angle? Let the flex joint socket do the bending and twisting, instead of your hands

Air Tools & Accessories

Electronics & Battery Operated Tools
3/8" Drive Cordless Impact Gun - One of my most used toys. Light, mobile, gets most things loose. If you want something useful without having to buy an air compressor for a while, invest here
Tactrix 2.0 Cable - Datalogging :D
Digital Volt & Ohm Meter - Helps diagnosing electrical issues, from battery to sensors. Very nice accessory, does take learning to understand how to test stuff and use it properly

Precision Tools
1/2" Drive Torque Wrench - Torque all those bolts to proper specifications

Miscellaneous Accessories
Multiple Sized Flashlights - Not the first thing you think of, but very useful.
Lighted Flexible Inspection Mirror - Looking in hard to find spots
Tap & Die Set - Nothing worse than having damaged or rusted bolt holes that you can't fix when you need it
Bench Vice - When you need more than two hands to take something apart, and no one else is around, this guy helps
 
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IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Awesome! We are always open for business!
 

icudruln

New member
So last night, the STi threw a P0171 code (Bank 1 System too Lean). Me and my tuner got together, ran some datalogs, and checked out what was going on. We couldn't get the car to duplicate it, so I just cleaned up the MAF sensor due to all the snow and magchloride all over the roads. No issues sense, but I was paranoid as shit as soon as I pulled the code.

We also pulled and checked the spark plugs, and they didn't show any signs of extended periods of a lean condition. Also checked the o2 sensors and the torque on them. All was good, so I'm relieved.
 

icudruln

New member
Tax returns are here! Just got home from finishing up my paperwork, and I'm stoked about what I'm gonna be able to get.

ACT XT-SS Clutch
Whiteline 24MM Front Adjustable Sway Bar
Whiteline 24MM Rear Adjustable Sway Bar
Whiteline Front & Rear Ball Link Endlinks
Litespeed Rear Chassis Bridge
Whiteline Rear Strut Bar
Whiteline Race Anti Lift Kit
Beatrush Motor Mounts
Beatrush Transmission Mount
Beatrush Forged Pitch Stop
TiC Master Cylinder Brace
Kartboy Rear Subframe Botox Bolts
Subaru Genuine Coolant

Things I'm considering:
Mishimoto Radiator Hoses
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Whiteline Front Strut Bar


I'm still researching, but I dunno if I should do the radiator hoses. The stock ones are in perfectly fine shape. I do plan on doing some AutoX and HPDE events this summer. I'm on the stock radiator core, supported with a Killer B radiator shroud. Do I do the hoses or no?

In regards to the front strut bar, from what I've seen, it doesn't do a whole lot due to Subaru's placement of the engine. Is it worth doing for the $150+?

The only thing of those three I'm considering for sure is the SS brake lines. Better pedal feel is always good.

Help spend my tax returns!
 

joey.lisano

New member
I'd hold off on the front and rear strut bars. I didn't notice any difference after I installed the rear strut bar, but I already had the Litespeed rear chassis bridge. Same deal on the front strut bar. I think I need some wider tires before I'll notice any benefits. I'd get the ss brake lines instead. The stock rubber radiator hoses will eventually balloon up when they decide to go. It's an old car / high mileage thing as well as a common Subaru issue. Sometimes the hose gets so big that the fan cuts into it, and things really get interesting. I don't mean to scare you; just saying it's a future mod for you're already changing the coolant and you have the funds.
 

icudruln

New member
Good stuff guys. I figured to throw in th rear strut bar since I'm doing the chassis bridge, but no point in doing it if that money is better spent elsewhere. I'll swap out the strut bar for the SS lines.

I figure since it's time for a coolant flush, I'd consider the hoses. I'll be adding the mishimoto's to my order.
 

icudruln

New member
I may be missing something, but I did not see any lockdown for the rear diff. I went kartboy on the pitchstop, group n on the tranny and engine mounts, and right now that's the suspension mod at the top of my list because the diff gets slapped around like a battered housewife when i drop the clutch.

Rear diff outrigger kit/ rear diff mount bushings? Already sitting at home :)
 
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