OVER HEATING like a mother

[MILLI_VANILLI]

Hello fellow STI owners, I am in need of some help. A buddy of mine recently blew the motor in his 2006 STI, from what I am thinking was a bad tune. His mods include (prior to the blown motor).
- Cobb sf intake
- Perrin inlet pipe
-ATP 3076r process west TMIC
-PNP heads
-cosworth pistons
-Manley H beam rods
-nitrated crank
-Agency power down pipe
-Perrin light weight crank pulley group and motor mounts
-Tial 44 mm EWG
-Grimmspeed boost controller
-Deatschwerks 1100cc injectors
Please do not judge me because this is what I was told..
After the engine was rebuilt 500 break in miles were placed on the motor. The car will operate fine when it is out of boost and under 35mph, However when the gas is put on and it gets to about 40 to 55 the car will overheat very quickly.
He has checked all coolant lines. replaced all seals on the motor. Checked coolant for oil, as well as checked all oil for coolant, both were negative. When the car was overheating he would pull over and immediately shut the car off, and would notice that the overflow tank would be grossly filled with coolant, almost as if the motor was pushing the coolant into the overflow.

The system has been burped many times and the problem still continues to happen. Is there any other way that air could be pulled into the system to cause to much pressure and force it into the overflow, or is there another explanation on to why this is happening.

Thank you for your time, I just don't want to leave a fellow STI owner hanging and yes I am going to get his ass on this site. I also know that this is an amazing run on... Thank you again....

 

[Grinder34]

could still be an air pocket.

Holycrap talked about a vacuum fill method for coolant that sounded pretty badass, that pretty much eliminates any chance of air in the system.

 

[Spamby]

Sounds like a circulation issue. As Grinder said it may still have an air pocket. They can be a real bitch to eliminate.
He filled at the highest point?
Water pump is fine?
Ran the heater for part of the burping?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Sounds like it is blowing coolant into the overflow and the only way that can happen is if the system exceeds the pressure of the cap. That happens from one of two things... It is actually overheating and building pressure that exceeds the cap or... your head gaskets are bad and or the head studs are stretching under boost and the boost pressure is leaking into the cooling system.

This happened on my car when I had it and it turned out to be the head gaskets. Mine happened when I boosted it. I have seen allot of built motors with this issue and it was usually the head gaskets in combination with ARP head studs. More specifically cometic head gaskets in combination with ARP head studs. The studs stretch quite a bit and I have found that the sealing portion of the gasket that surrounds the bore does not spring back when the head moves and the seal is broken. The only studs I use now are the ARP L19 studs or stock bolts and the only gasket I use is OEM.

I suggest you have the coolant tested for hydrocarbons. The other things it could be is water pump, blockage in the radiator or thermostat

 

[WRB_STi]

The crappy part about this is the ARP studs should be retorqued after a heat cycle. It sucks to do on these but it is necessary. I suspect that it is blowing pressure into the cooling system through the head gasket. Do you know what the head bolt torque was? I usually do 85 ft/lbs final torque but it needs to be done in stages, 20, 40, 60, 80.

I usually do it right after break in miles or idling in my driveway. Usually on a fresh build, I start and let it run and adjust the tune as needed depending on mods. After that, I drain the break in oil, let it cool down, pull the valve covers, retorque the studs, then refill with AMS oil z-rod, brad penn etc... (whatever has high zinc). Then start the break in miles.

 

[MILLI_VANILLI]

Thank you for the replies gentlmen I am going to forward what you suggested and get replies to your questions.

 

[MILLI_VANILLI]

OK gents, I am back with some feedback.

This is what the owner said. "I used stock head bolts and oem gaskets. they were torqued properly in right sequence. yes I filled at highest point and ive tried old and new water pump but had the same results. however I did not run the heater while burping, does that make a big difference in getting air out? I figure if it idles and cycles through a few times with no bubbles or over heating it was good. then I drive it and it over heats even if I don't make any boost at all. like I said its good doing 20-30 but 40+ and after a mile or so it over heats"

So he stated that he did not run the heater while burping, also If it still over haeats could this still be an issue with the head gasket.

 

[WRB_STi]

I highly recommend using one of these when filling any cooling system. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/uvi...p-31205.aspx?gclid=CNqw3O348b0CFchFMgod5QgA1w

All you do is vacuum it down, fill it, top it off and drive. The one secret that everyone forgets is when you open the valve, air from the hose is sucked in. Close the valve when the coolant gets to the top and re-vacuum it down again to get the remaining air out.

If there is air in the system, it should overheat all the time, not just when boosting or driving.

I still suspect a head gasket issue or the bolts are stretching. Make sure that there is nothing blocking the radiator (dirt buildup in the AC condenser) etc... and make sure that the cooling fans are coming on.

If you let it idle for a while in the driveway, do the fans come on and what is the temperature?

 

[ChhewBAKA]

Can I jack this thread or should I post a new one about my overheating problem also?

 

[Alin]

Make a new one so it pertains to you. If you're having similar issues as Milli, then leave it here, I suppose.

 

[Spamby]

Can I jack this thread or should I post a new one about my overheating problem also?

Just start a new one. Keeps it more organized.