Planning to upgrade to a Blouch Dominator 2.5 XT-R aka the "Polka Pickle"

[STiZzle2010]

First off, I am new to the forum and this seems like a great community! I am eager to learn and share the little bit of knowledge that I have gained.

I purchased my STi new back in May of 2010 and I have been slowly modding (mainly because I have a family and 2 kids). I have not been able to track the car yet but plan to do so occasionally in the future. This is my daily driver and I have done some work to the car. So far this is what has been done:

CP drop in pistons (due to a ringland failure)
Tial 38mm EWG
Grimspeed EBCS
Grimspeed up pipe
Invidia catless downpipe
Magnaflow custom exhaust
Killer B oil pick up
ARP headstuds
air injection delete
street tune on 93 octane by Matt Miner form Wicked Innovations

I am now looking to increase my power and I am ideally looking to be around 400 WHP. I plan to increase my power in stages as I will not have the funds to do everything at once. I would like to get a Polka Pickle, fuel pump, and injectors to start off with. Later down the road I plan to get a FMIC and maybe tune for E85. I am somewhat a noob as this is my first turbo vehicle and I am not sure what I need for parts and if what I have already is compatible. Here are a few questions that I have:

1. Will my 38mm EWG work with this set up and are there any advantages/disadvantages of using a 38mm over a 44mm?
2. Considering that I do not plan to tune for E85 for quite some time, what size injectors will I need and what fuel pump should I use?
3. Am I right in thinking that a 8cm housing will give me a little faster spool especially due to the lag I will get eventually from the FMIC?
4. Do I need a 3" inlet compressor housing and what is the benefit?
5. Am I missing anything in my parts list to get up and going other than a tune?

I have done some research on turbos and I have decided on the Polka Pickle as I am looking for a turbo with somewhat quick spool, top end power, and room to grow. I am still in the research phase but planning on ordering parts over the winter to get ready for spring install. I plan to discuss everything with my tuner as well but want to get the communities input as well. Thanks in advance!

 

[Alin]

Welcome to IGOTASTI!!!

Show us some pictures of the ride!!! :tup:

I can help with a few things but im gonna be waiting for others to share their knowledge so i can expand on my own as well.

For e85, i know that ID1000+ will be best for injectors. The fuel pump needs to be something along the lines of a DW65. Someone else can go more in depth on the exact specs and info.

I believe the 3" compressor housing allows for more air and that equates to more power? Someone else can explain this for both of us.

An 8cm housing will be quicker spool than a 10cm. That is correct.

Why is the dom 2.5 called a polka pickle?!?! :lol:

 

[ej25subie05]

1. the only difference that you will ever notice is going to be in how they sound (that is the only difference for your power levels, when you go huge then you need to run more than one etc). go on youtube and compare. the 38mm is known as the screamer while the 44mm how more of a deeper tone. i currently am running a 38mm ewg on my sti and have on a few of my other cars and love it. some don't... but if you talk to most tuners they will tell you to run the 38mm, so for your setup whatever you choose will work.

2. go with id1000cc plenty of room to run more power and are amazing over all. (also i am running them on my sti lol) make sure you get the pnp kit with them as well (50$)
3. yes you will get quicker spool time with the 8cm but if your going to try to get top end power, sacrifice a little bottom end and get the 10cm you'll thank me later.
4. some claim there is no difference others say that there is. honestly for your power goals get the 2.4". it will be a better fit and you will never notice those lacking couple hp unless you have a dyno chart. now unless you went rotated then id say get the 3" inlet, you don't have to worry about a tight fit on a rotated setup. I'm running a 2.4" inlet on my blouch 3.0xtr. wonderful fit, would i get the 3" inlet, short answer, not on a factory location. i hit full boost at 3700rpm with 10cm housing. (maybe a little sooner) but i do have a lot of engine work done.

5. top feed fuel rails would help for even fuel distribution, tgv deletes, stay away from cat less dp unless you don't have smog, gonna need a ewg block off (message me i have an extra grimmspeed adjustable one for blouch turbos), turbo inlet, the stock ones are garbage (don't waste your money on knock offs) i currently am running a aps hard inlet and love it, perrin makes decent ones, and a few others. also your going to need a different intake setup and properly big maf if your going to push it, might as well build it now so you can add more power with out changing parts out dow the road. also i said intake bc you mentioned fmic, fmic won't work with factory intake. also your bpv will probably start leaking with the 2.5 xtr so consider changing that out as well.

 

[ej25subie05]

i may actually take back what i said about going with 10cm housing. if you want a as close to stock spooling turbo get 8cm. otherwise do the 10cm. your gonna have a blast on this turbo either way.


also they call it the polka pickle just for the heck of it and they tweaked a few things, those are the only reasons if i remember correctly when i was looking for a turbo.

may i suggest looking into the 1.5xtr. i have seen charts of guys close to 400whp and even top speed hit 411whp if memory serves me right. i had this turbo on my sti before i decided to change it all out and its a mean little guy. quick i mean quick spool and holds great to higher rpm.

 

[STiZzle2010]

Here are a few cell phone pics:

Thank you everyone for the quick response and clarification. I can see already the 8cm vs 10cm is gonna be my biggest decision lol.

 

[ej25subie05]

dang she looking good, i miss my DGM a lot now...

my advice find dyno sheets of that turbo with the 10cm and 8cm. look at the torque curve, the spool up, how the top end drops etc. then decide. whatever one you get you can't go wrong with. but if you do plan on trying to squeeze out some top end you may regret the 8cm later on.

 

[IGOTASTi]

Love the pics. :tup:

 

[STiZzle2010]

Haha thanks. I originally wanted a WRB (like everyone else lol) but ended up with the DGM and I have no regrets!

Dyno sheets to compare the 8cm and the 10cm is definitely the way I plan to go. I am extremely excited to get this turbo in!!!

 

[IGOTASTi]

Just a quick question.

How did you hear about us?

 

[STiZzle2010]

Love the pics. :tup:

LOL I don't know which one you are referring to but, thanks!

 

[STiZzle2010]

Just a quick question.

How did you hear about us?

I am actually following on Facebook. I am part of NASIOC but most of the members on there would rather flame everyone and I prefer more of a community interested in actually helping lol. I have been meaning to join for a while now and I am happy I did!

 

[IGOTASTi]

Awesome. We're not like them at all and never will be.

You check out our memberships yet? Free goodies included.

 

[STiZzle2010]

Not yet, but I definitely will!

 

[IGOTASTi]

Sweet. If you need the link let us know. Would love your support.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

1. the only difference that you will ever notice is going to be in how they sound (that is the only difference for your power levels, when you go huge then you need to run more than one etc). go on youtube and compare. the 38mm is known as the screamer while the 44mm how more of a deeper tone. i currently am running a 38mm ewg on my sti and have on a few of my other cars and love it. some don't... but if you talk to most tuners they will tell you to run the 38mm, so for your setup whatever you choose will work.

2. go with id1000cc plenty of room to run more power and are amazing over all. (also i am running them on my sti lol) make sure you get the pnp kit with them as well (50$)
3. yes you will get quicker spool time with the 8cm but if your going to try to get top end power, sacrifice a little bottom end and get the 10cm you'll thank me later.
4. some claim there is no difference others say that there is. honestly for your power goals get the 2.4". it will be a better fit and you will never notice those lacking couple hp unless you have a dyno chart. now unless you went rotated then id say get the 3" inlet, you don't have to worry about a tight fit on a rotated setup. I'm running a 2.4" inlet on my blouch 3.0xtr. wonderful fit, would i get the 3" inlet, short answer, not on a factory location. i hit full boost at 3700rpm with 10cm housing. (maybe a little sooner) but i do have a lot of engine work done.

5. top feed fuel rails would help for even fuel distribution, tgv deletes, stay away from cat less dp unless you don't have smog, gonna need a ewg block off (message me i have an extra grimmspeed adjustable one for blouch turbos), turbo inlet, the stock ones are garbage (don't waste your money on knock offs) i currently am running a aps hard inlet and love it, perrin makes decent ones, and a few others. also your going to need a different intake setup and properly big maf if your going to push it, might as well build it now so you can add more power with out changing parts out dow the road. also i said intake bc you mentioned fmic, fmic won't work with factory intake. also your bpv will probably start leaking with the 2.5 xtr so consider changing that out as well.

I definitely agree that he will need a larger MAF. I had to go with an 83mm for my setup just as an example but that might be to optimistic for 400 whp. Maybe a 72mm would do. OP... your other choice would be to go speed density. It would probably be less hassle but that would be something you need discuss with your tuner.

Also the waste gate size is usually related to the size of the turbo, and the larger the turbo the smaller the waste gate. Of course that is not to say that this is rule of thumb because the real way to size a waste gate is to measure the back pressure just after the turbine while boosting to determine sufficient flow through the gate, but this is often not feasible so tuners usually just start with the smallest size and then increase if needed. I recommend a waste gate that can be adjusted like the Synapse. It comes with both 38 and 50 mm valve seats so you can tune it. You probably don't ever have to go through that much trouble to select a waste gate though. This is just me being anal. Most applications see 38mm perfectly sufficient. :tup:

 

[ej25subie05]

well if he runs speed density it won't matter what size intake he has, as long as it provides sufficient flow. i am running SD and made a custom 3" intake myself. no restrictions with maf holder etc to a APS hard inlet. but then you will need to purchase a map sensor (aem makes a sweet 3.5 bar and cobb makes a map adapter) all products i recommend i have tried or am running.

but if you were to get an intake look into KS tech, and i would go with the 83mm, 73mm maybe be small if you decide to push your turbo to its limits i believe. but may be wrong (ask your tuner)