Small build 2013 sti!

milehighsubie303

New member
Trying to find a power range for a build I have in mind, but can't seem to pinpoint on any range. As far as the build I would like to to get all the e85 essentials(pump, injectors, tune) now as far as the engine stock block with cosworth forged internals and some machine work done to head. And lastly get a bigger bolt on turbo. For the people who read this and have experience with builds. What would be a safe, fun power range with this that won't blow up the block in like 10k miles. Thanks for the input in advance!
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] [MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION]
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
I've seen it discussed before, but for reliability on a non-race build, often going with forged internals can lead to problems. I think Holy posted about it recently, but basically it has to do with oil and tolerances. If you start changing some engine internals, you can sometimes change their oil requirements. The problem is then that you have half the engine wanting one viscosity and the other half wanting a different viscosity.
 

TK-421

New member
It's not just oil bearing clearances that you have to be concerned with, forged internals especially Pistons create what is called piston slap upon start up. Because they are forged they are heat treated and have little to no room for thermal expansion to take shape like it does in the cast aluminum Pistons.

Now Mahle has attempted to correct this issue by creating something that's called a Hyperutechtic Piston. It's stronger than your standard cast piston but not as strong as a forged piston. It does though help elevate piston slap in the cylinder bore by allowing some form of thermal expansion.

Now when it comes to things like bearing clearances, these are so precise that Subaru literally recommends getting new case halves and a new crankshaft IF engine work/replacement is to be done. The tolerances are so finite that when you change one thing it ends up becoming a domino effect. The bearing clearances change, you run thicker oil, because you run thicker oil, the volume the pump creates is inadequate because the pump was designed for a specific oil thickness to be used. That's generally the reason why if you have ever seen any of the powerblock TV shows like "engine power" you always hear them changing out the oil pump for a performance unit from either milodon or Moroso when working with those big V8 blocks.

Now sure any shop who can build you an engine is going to spat reputation and customer success they personally have at you. Why? Because they are just trying to sell you a product. They are trying to get you to spend your money with and on them.

To answer your question of reliability and power? No such thing. Hands down no such thing as reliability AND power.

If you have power your going to break shit it's just a question of when.

Now there are plenty of Subaru's out there on both ethanol and pump gas making modest numbers with a larger stock frame turbo WITHOUT forged internals. I honestly think the majority of engine builds happen just because of the ringland scare. I see a bunch of STi's and WRX's for sale that have a built short block yet everything else is stock. From the heads all the way to the turbo and TGV's. There is no real reason to put forged internals in the car unless your shooting for 500 + horsepower.

Now take it from someone who has owned a couple vehicles touching the 700 to 900 hp range.

It's fun at first, but the shit gets really old really fast. Drive ability goes in the toilet, forget trying to drive the car the way you did when you bought it or even when it had just some bolt ons. That's history. Sure you see YouTube videos of all this roll racing crap on highways. STi beats Evo, STi beats viper, STi beats street bike. BUT what they don't say is how often does the car run like that? How's it drive everyday in NORMAL traffic flow? I'll tell you what it's like. It's a PITA!!!!!! It stumbles, idle is usually hunting and pecking in stop and go traffic, the heat soak is pretty intense with a big build if your in stop and go traffic as well. And because your fast, you have to deal with not only the other cars but law enforcement CONSTANTLY. They keep tabs on the cars that are stupid fast on the road.

So classroom instruction aside. I say especially if your looking at E85, I would go with a 20G or DOM series Blouch turbo, headers, Uppipe, FMIC, TGVs, intake manifold porting, 1300cc injectors, 300lph pump, either cobb or GS EBCS, and as much heat isolation you can do and that should get you close to the 400 to 450 range with E85.
 

milehighsubie303

New member
[MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] thank you so much for the info! Yes I understand about the more the build the more drive ability is diminished. I have a couple friends at 600+ and it's true they never ever drive the cars. I am looking for something with a punch and still something worth driving. Something like what you mentioned seems close to what I had in mind. I was just unsure about the whole internals due to the "ringland failure". I have some some builds with stock internals and block and doing around 380"safely". But thanks a lot for the knowledge.
 

TK-421

New member
Sure thing, if your interested in a good set up talk to [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION], and keep an eye on his build thread. We are starting his build this weekend
 

milehighsubie303

New member
Do you guys have an Instagram page or something I could follow see pics and such, does [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION] have a journal on this forum.
 

TK-421

New member
Yes he has a journal and my Instagram is T_K_4_2_1 I'll probably put some pictures of his build on my Instagram
 

SudoSTI

Member
Wow [MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] way to take the fun out of modding a car haha. My old 06 WRX/STI Frankensubie was at about 380whp/wtq with an FP Green and all the other bits to go along with and it was crazy fun to drive on the street. My current build with a rotated Borg Warner S256 I'm thinking will be on the upper end of 400whp, possibly tipping into the 500s on E85 and I don't really want to go much more. I may even dial it back some if need be considering it's going to be my DD.
 

TK-421

New member
Well when your dad was a patent attorney, a chemist and a physicist science is a major staple of your education. Especially when he worked for both Corning glass and Alcoa. I know my metallurgy properties
 

SudoSTI

Member
Snap, that's pretty intense. I <3 science. I think that's my favorite part about working on and learning about cars are the scientific aspects of it. I like when the guys designing parts weigh in with the engineering thought processes that went in to the design and product testing.
 
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