so I've been doing a little research on turbos to upgrade to, and it seems I'm stuck on garret turbo (needs FMI) and the Dominator (from my understanding i can keep a TMI) can anyone give me some of their $0.02 on these....price is a little of a factor getting the turbo plus a FMI setup is pricey just to get a new turbo, however at the same time like I've said before i don't want a halfass job in my car, i want to do it right.
Garret turbo vs. dominator?
- Thread starter NESTI
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Spamby
Meat Product Toy
I wouldn't know without looking at compressor maps if they are comparable. They seem similar.
49 lbs and 52 lbs respectively. But I think the Dom 3.0 is more on the same as the GT3076.
Though I thought you can get a GT30xx in a stock location to fit a TMIC?
Blouch and Garrett are great turbos.
The blouch uses Garrett center section iirc? And the blouch uses a Garrett 3076 turbine...60mm I think? Memory is foggy since I looked at turbos in a long time.
49 lbs and 52 lbs respectively. But I think the Dom 3.0 is more on the same as the GT3076.
Though I thought you can get a GT30xx in a stock location to fit a TMIC?
Blouch and Garrett are great turbos.
The blouch uses Garrett center section iirc? And the blouch uses a Garrett 3076 turbine...60mm I think? Memory is foggy since I looked at turbos in a long time.
I have a GT3071, a FMIC and meth, along with a bunch of other things listed in my journal if you're curious,
but if I had to do it all over again, I think I'd greatly consider a large TMIC (plus, maybe meth or e85)
rather than a FMIC.
I know there are all kinds of variables in a build, but for the most part, you can run a GT30 on a TMIC.
In fact, a couple of the fastest STi's I've seen are GT3071/76's with large TMIC's and meth or e85.
Another solid setup would be large TMIC, meth and Blouch 20G.
but if I had to do it all over again, I think I'd greatly consider a large TMIC (plus, maybe meth or e85)
rather than a FMIC.
I know there are all kinds of variables in a build, but for the most part, you can run a GT30 on a TMIC.
In fact, a couple of the fastest STi's I've seen are GT3071/76's with large TMIC's and meth or e85.
Another solid setup would be large TMIC, meth and Blouch 20G.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Honestly I would not do a thing until you understand what your driving and power goal is... I would only make a recommendation based on that. Otherwise you risk spending a whole shit load of money for a setup you that may not meet your goal.
well, i just scheduled an appt with cobb to bring in my car to install the perrin turbo back kit and do a tune....from there im going with a little suspension upgrades and new pistons for the preparation for more power... next is going to be e85 tune and new clutch along with the other obvious upgrades that go with switching to e85, fuel pump, 1000cc injectors.... once i reach this point i want to drive it like this for a while and get a feel for the new power but im guessing next after all of this will be a turbo possibly a new IC also. i suppose im looking for about 400-425 whp, maybe more if thats where the turbo will bring me.
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
Sounds fun.
Consider doing more to your engine than just dropping in pistons. If you want 400 whp and beyond, more thought should be put into the engine and heads. 400 at the wheels is 500 at the crank. Your demanding alot from the engine and thus it needs to be complete to get a more balanced and reliable package.
On another note, E85 can hit 400 whp with less bolt ons. Smaller turbos can hit this mark easily on ethanol.
Good start, keep researching and asking questions.
Consider doing more to your engine than just dropping in pistons. If you want 400 whp and beyond, more thought should be put into the engine and heads. 400 at the wheels is 500 at the crank. Your demanding alot from the engine and thus it needs to be complete to get a more balanced and reliable package.
On another note, E85 can hit 400 whp with less bolt ons. Smaller turbos can hit this mark easily on ethanol.
Good start, keep researching and asking questions.
I agree with Spamby. Also consider that when replacing pistons, shop costs are going to be high already. Might as well get more bang for the buck by installing other upgraded parts while the motor is out anyway so you don't have to later.
I've been trying to do some of my own research on how much power the stock forged rods can take, so far I'm unsuccessful with a real answer....if all new internals is what i needs to do then thats what i will do. I've also decided sleeves for the cylinder is something ill want...Other than new rods, pistons and bearings and a sleeve i don't know much about engine builds... i'll continue to broaden my horizons, however what i have done and what I'm planning are two completely different things simply because what i haven't completed yet is still subject to change. i am still making it stage 2 right now regardless. I appreciate all of the advice, and be assured that everyones input is going to help me make final decisions on how to reach my goals successfully. Thanks
Sleeves are never a bad idea, but end up costing you a lot more money. I personally wouldn't worry about
sleeves unless 1) I was going with a piston more than +0.5mm from stock. 2) The cylinder walls were all scarred
up and I HAD TO go with #1 ^. 3) I planned on making well over 500whp and was going to track it, where engine
temps are going to be much higher sustained which contributes to cylinder wall warping.
I'm sure the guys that have done a bunch of motor builds will chime in on this.
sleeves unless 1) I was going with a piston more than +0.5mm from stock. 2) The cylinder walls were all scarred
up and I HAD TO go with #1 ^. 3) I planned on making well over 500whp and was going to track it, where engine
temps are going to be much higher sustained which contributes to cylinder wall warping.
I'm sure the guys that have done a bunch of motor builds will chime in on this.
The point I was making with sleeves wasn't completely based on power. It was mostly if the cylinders were bored larger than stock, because iirc the thinned walls have a harder time with the heat and can warp to an egg shape, pinching and exploding the piston. I know the case halves are known to crack around 600whp.
Is this pretty much true, Fuji? ...or not so much?
Is this pretty much true, Fuji? ...or not so much?
So I'm assuming, they crazy powerful EJ257 motors that are cranking out between 600-1200whp are
some kind of special block? Would that be a factory block with something done to it, or a whole different
block altogether?
some kind of special block? Would that be a factory block with something done to it, or a whole different
block altogether?
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