You shouldn't really have any issues unless you experience any misfire codes as a result, yet it is rare to get misfire codes from light weight pulleys. However IMO you would get more bang for your buck if you put your money into other mods. The gain from the pulleys is going to be marginal at best and may cause rougher idle. the best you will get out of it is a sharper response but you may not even notice that.
What mods are on the car now?
You shouldn't really have any issues unless you experience any misfire codes as a result, yet it is rare to get misfire codes from light weight pulleys. However IMO you would get more bang for your buck if you put your money into other mods. The gain from the pulleys is going to be marginal at best and may cause rougher idle. the best you will get out of it is a sharper response but you may not even notice that.
What mods are on the car now?
Well i like my car to be responsive I don't care much for tons of power I like driving it just cause, but I like long term health but keeping the parts somewhat close to stock if you get what I'm saying nothing extravagant that's going to change the overall feel such as switching from a UEL to EL header. Just doing my research n playing it safe n I have some experts that I can ask on here. As far as mods:
COBB APv2
COBB BPV
COBB DP
COBB CAI w/AB
GRIMMSPEED AOS
SPT short throw
SPT CBE
what would you get to get best bang for my buck?
Lol I should've said except sways n end links I do have plans for that those will be my next along with strut tower bars
I would say that is it :lol: Maybe a stage 2 protune if you don't have one already. What about a fuel pump. Most stage 2 cars require this because they start reaching the top of there injectors at WOT and upgrading to a Walbro usually helps with that.
Do the fuel pumps generate codes? Or is the protune required I eventually want to get a protune but i not entirely convinced it's necessary especially not for I have on the car and money it cost to get one.
Front strut bars are useless. The strut towers on an STI are connected by the firewall and the only value a strut bar has is visual. :tup: As batmobile suggests the rear one makes more sense to me.
When looking at strut tower bars, keep in mind that they don't make that much of a difference. The
exception is a rear strut bar with a X or V-brace, sometimes called a triangle brace. Without the bracing,
the rear strut bar isn't nearly as effective. I have a rear bar with brace, and a front bar. I don't have the
front bar installed right now and honestly I don't miss it.
What about underbody h brace and rear x brace?
Let me tell you about strut bars. I bought the cheapest shit that included front rear and underbody h brace all for $140 shipped. Prolly best $140 spent. Theyre still in one piece, theyre still holding strong, and theyre still cheap! :rofl:
The pink tree piece package on ebay. Idk if its still there but i personally did not want to shell out almost $200 on a single strut bar. Cause thats sway bar territory and the sways are substantially better!