DP temperature

[Spamby]

Today at work I was climbing on a Caterpillar 3608 and had an epiphany. My hands were directly on the turbo outlet that was wrapped for heat protection. I realized it is the same materials I have access to. My father is a mechanical insulation contractor (pipeline, etc). I did a 6 year stint with him about 15 years ago and learned a lot of the trade. Notably, how to make removable blankets for hot lines. So I was thinking of making my own blankets for the turbo and DP.

Anyone ever get a temp reading on the hotside of the turbo or at least the DP by the bellmouth? Looking for quick answer otherwise I'll see if I can't scrounge up an IR thermometer.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Grinder34]

EGTs are in the 1500-1600 range IIRC. Things only get colder from there, and then they lose a lot of heat across the turbo, so the DP temps should be cooler than EGTs.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Well you figure the exhaust gases are anywhere from 1000 to 1600 degrees depending on the tune. The pipe won't be as hot but it will be close.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

EGTs are in the 1500-1600 range IIRC. Things only get colder from there, and then they lose a lot of heat across the turbo, so the DP temps should be cooler than EGTs.

Haha you beat me to it :lol:

 

[Spamby]

Cool deal. I gave the old man a max temp of 1800*. He is gonna run the numbers to see what type of insulation and figure the skin temps so I know what to wrap said insulation in.
It's been awhile but I'll see if I can't sew up a zippered sock. Never liked all of the wire, s.s. zipties, lacing anchors etc. Must think seamstress... lol

Thanks guys!

 

[finallymysti]

How did this turnout

 

[Spamby]

How did this turnout

It hasn't... yet. Pregnant wife, anniversary, fall chores... blah blah blah has put this little side project on well, the side.

Did get the details worked out. I will go with 1" thick ceramic fiber blanket, stainless mesh and then silicone cloth for an outer skin. Hog rings will do the stitching.
I am having a hard time finding zippers that would stand up to the temperature so I am going to have to use lacing anchors and s.s. wire or s.s. zip ties to lace it up.

Project is still on the burner, just simmering for now.

 

[Grinder34]

SS hose clamp? Cheap, easy, re-usable.

If you do figure out a good solution, I may try to mimic you!

 

[Spamby]

SS hose clamp? Cheap, easy, re-usable.

If you do figure out a good solution, I may try to mimic you!

Hose clamps! Forgot about that option.

Need to get this going. I have an audience now.

 

[Grinder34]

So what gives?

 

[Spamby]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

That's what gives.

I will start this weekend..

 

[Spamby]

Don't be shy. What's your ideas?

 

[Spamby]

First off, paint the bare metal. No matter what you do, moisture can get trapped between insulating materials and the pipe itself. VHT actually makes rattle can ceramic coatings... Of you could get it coated by a shop. Post turbo temps are only part of the equation, preturbo piping and the hotside are another part. There are quite a few different materials you can layer, but the bottom layer is probably the best starting point.

Stainless steel so I am not too worried about moisture. The ceramic coating is a good idea but I am kinda doing a quick and dirty this go around. Maybe sometime when I have the DP off I will send it off for a jet hot coating or something similar.

Not going to mess with the piping pre turbo. Just doing the downpipe and hot side.

Definitely a lot of materials out there from traditional to some that are exotic and pricey (several hundred dollars a linear yard).

I will be raiding my dad's shop for some goodies... silicone cloth, stainless mesh, hog rings, ceramic fiber and possibly a mylar/ ceramic product.

I will also be fire testing them with a torch prior to fabrication.

 

[Spamby]

That does bring a good point.

Some stainless steel grades do corrode, eventually, especially given temp extremes moisture. Welds given that the proper wire/rod is not utilized.
That's why you see a lot of exhaust systems advertise stainless steel and you think wooho, it will never rust, only to see that a short time later small amounts of pitting and surface rust.
These grades have a lower chromium and/or nickel content and thus are cheaper but also less corrosion resistant. That's why you see a lot of ss exhaust systems begin to corrode over time. These systems utilize a more ferric steel to maintain a lower cost. Borla is a good example of a product that uses a better grade of stainless steel.
I believe mine is of 304 so corrosion should not be a factor. However, I will give it a look once I get my nose in there to see if any corrosion has taken place and if need be, give it a shot of some paint.

 

[Spamby]

Got everything I need... I think? Gonna start this project today along with my AOS.

I believe I will move the tech part and pics to my journal unless someone sees it otherwise?

Mods, Best place to put this write up? Here, my journal or a new thread altogether?

 

[Spamby]

Failure! Actually, not really, but it didn't work out like I had planned. BAsically, the DP has to come out in order for me to do what I needed to. The ceramic fiber was very thick, probably more thickness than needed, for me to just wrap and tie.
1 hour turned to three and so on. Darkness and cold set in and I still needed to get the AOS sewed up.

In short, I am saving this for a longer day when I can concentrate solely on this and only this. This wasn't a total loss as I now have better ideas. I could have made this one work, and it would have done it's job, but it wasn't what I wanted so back to the drawing board.
The tree bore fruit but it just hasn't ripened, yet.

 

[Spamby]

Any insulation supplier that caters industrial and refractory insulations. I don't know the cost, off the top of my head, but it may be very cost prohibitive to try and do this yourself. PLus you will have to either hog ring or sew the seams. Pneumatic Hog ring guns, like the one in the photo, are about 500-1000 a pop. Manual guns are about 50 but are very slow and a painful process. Another alternative is to sew these but that requires an industrial sewing machine plus large needles and special threads made of kevlar, nomex and the like. Plus you need to know how to sew. I suck at it so I use the rings and gun.
I get this stuff for free so this is the only reason I am doing this. Otherwise, I would buy a premade wrap from a supplier.

If you are very adventurous, I can help you with what you need and some how to. I would be more than happy to help.

Here is a photo of some of the material I have.


1" - 8# ceramic fiber blanket. Good for about 2300* continuous contact.

Bottom to top: Stainless steel mesh. fiberglass cloth. Silicone fiberglass cloth. Aluminum coated (mylar) fiberglass cloth.

 

[Spamby]

Find a supplier near you and talk to them about what you want to do. They may give you some scraps for free!! When I was doing this for a living some hotrodders would sometimes come by and want some for their rods. We would just give 'em the cut offs for free.

The hog rings would be so you can seal the seams. You have to stitch it or ring it in order to hold the materials together. Hose clamps for when you just want to hold the finished blanket on the pipe.

 

[Spamby]

If there is one caveat, tis that one

 

[Grinder34]

did you ever pick this back up?