GD SubieEngineer's 2007 UGM STI Limited #576, The Gentleman's STI

SubieEngineer

New member
SubieEngineer's 2007 UGM STI Limited #576, The Gentleman's STI, Back from CMP

So I figured I'd finally stop being lazy and mostly C&P my journal off IWSTI (link)... :lol:

This is my DD/autocross (STU/STM) vehicle. STM, Street Tire Modified, is a local class my region has created for the people that just want to come out and run. Basically run-what-you-brung, as long as it's on street
tires (treadware of 140 and above).

For 2011, I've been fortunate to secure two companies as sponsors, Feal Suspension and EBC Brakes. Feal provides suspension services for a variety of products, especially Hotbits and Whiteline, and they also offer a great alternative to the Ohlins FPS for the 05-07 STI in the form of a revalve for the OEM struts. EBC provides a variety of braking hardware, and I'm currently using a trial set of their Yellowstuff pads.


Engine/Exhaust/Transmission:

1.
Custom Cobb Catted Turboback with 2.5" tapers removed (2.75" in the DP, 3" in the CB) and Magnaflow #14835 universal muffler with Cobb piping
2. Trimmed OEM Heatshield
3. Cobb AP V2 with Stage 2 93 OTS Tune (with Launch Control)
4. Grimmspeed PNP Exhaust Manifold with Grimmspeed Crosspipe
5. TiC Holy Shift Set (Pivot Bushings, Front/Rear Shifter Stay Bushings, Shift Linkage Bushings)
6. Ixiz Hood Dampers
7. Subaru Extra-S 75w90 in the Transmission and Rear Differential
8. Valvoline Synpower 5w30
9. Megan Racing Group N Pitch Stop
10. Megan Racing Group N Transmission Mount
11. TiC Transmission Crossmember Bushings
12. SPT Intake (APS 70mm CAI waiting)
13. Megan Racing Group N Motor Mounts
14. Gimmick Motorsports Silicon Turbo Inlet
15. Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
16. Grimmspeed Up-Pipe coated with VHT Flameproof and wrapped with DEI Titanium Wrap
17. S2 Industries (Grimmspeed knock-off) Air-Oil Separator
18. Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit (KCA313)
19. TiC Front Control Arm Rear Bushing w/ MSI Housing


Suspension:

1. RCE 25.5 Rear Sway Bar with Kartboy Endlinks (full soft)
2. Whiteline 24/26 Front Sway Bar (BSF33XZ)
3. Whiteline Front Adjustable Ball Endlinks (KLC139)
4. Group N rear mounts
5. Whiteline Com-C Front Upper Mounts (KCA335)
6. RCE Black springs in the rear and RCE Yellow springs in the front
7. Custom-valved OEM strut inserts by Feal Suspension (Rears are matched to the spring rate, fronts are slightly more aggressive than stock)
8. TiC Klunk Killer - Comfort (TiC rear differential mount bushings and KB rear subframe bushings)

ICE:

1. Pioneer FH-P8000BT
2. Audio Integrations 12" Enclosure

Wheels/Tires/Brakes:

1. Street: 17x9 +42 Rota Grids in Hyperblack with 255/40/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS
2. Autocross/Track: 17x9 +45 Kosei K1 TS with 255/40/17 Dunlop Sport Z1 Star Specs* or OEM Gold BBS with 245/40/17 RE-01Rs
3. Goodridge Stainless Steel Brakelines
4. Hawk HP+ Pads
5. EBC blank rotors
6. Motul RBF600

7. Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace*

Exterior:
1. Llumar 15% Charcoal ATR on the back 5 Windows, Llumar 5% Charcoal ATR on the Sunroof, 55% SolarGuard on the Windshield
2. Rally Armor Basics*

* Uninstalled

Alignment 2/26/11:


Here's my alignment last 8/10, with the camber plates canted towards the rear instead of perpendicular to the length of the car:



Here are my final #s. Kinda disappointed in my front neg camber, as I was expecting to get in the -1.5* to -1.7* range. But at least I don't have tire-destroying toe anymore.



Alignment 3/18/11:

I went by Firestone last Friday afternoon. Turns out they (at least, the one closest to my apt) uses a Hunter rack, but they don't have the hub sensors like the first shop does. My camber was about the same (give or take 0.1* or so). Not sure why I'm not getting the -2* easily in the front like I should. Ah, well. I'll probably just pick up some camber bolts and set 'em for full negative and fine-tune with the OEM camber bolt.



And after looking at this closely, it seems the tech adjusted the toe on both corners on the driver's side. I must've hit something significant that I can't remember...
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
2011 Sponsors:

1. Feal Suspension
2. EBC Brakes

Links:
My YouTube Page
SCCA East TN Region
2011 Racing Photos


2011 Autocross Schedule:

SCCA East TN Region
3/5, PSTCC, 1st in STM
4/3, PSTCC, 1st in STM
5/22, PSTCC, 10th in STM (
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)
6/26, PSTCC, 1st in STM
7/17, PSTCC, Out of Town
8/7, Chilhowee Park, Out of Town
8/21, PSTCC
9/11, PSTCC
9/24, Adessa Auto Auction
9/25, PSTCC
10/23, PSTCC
11/6, PSTCC

Porsche Club of America, Smoky Mountain Region
7/9, PSTCC

10/28-10/30, Solo National Tour, Nashville Superspeedway, Lebanon, TN

2011 Track Schedule:
4/17- Little Talladega Gran Prix
7/16-7/17 - Subaru Showdown at Carolina Motorsports Park

2011 Show/Meet Schedule:
4/2 - American Cancer Society Show at Knoxville Catholic High School
4/9 - One World One Heart Foundation Show at Pellissippi State Community College
7/16-7/17 - Subaru Showdown at Carolina Motorsports Park
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
Well, the track day I had scheduled for last Saturday, March 5 was canceled due to weather at the track, so we rescheduled for Sunday, April 17. What that meant for me is that I could go to the local SCCA AX and bring home the win.
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Event Results.

Video:

2011 ETR Regional #1

New Wheel/Tire Setup Pics (255/40/17 Star Specs on Kosei K1 TS 17x9 +45):

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Action Shots:

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Car felt great, I just need to learn to drive it in the wet better.
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We did fun runs and I decided to play with the center diff... We didn't time the fun runs, but I bet I would've been a good second faster with the diff set full rear! My Star Specs have 4-5 32s left, so I should be good for the track day and hopefully a few more events before I need to replace them.
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
Updated first post with a new alignment. Still not as much negative camber in the front as I want, so I'm picking up some camber bolts for the front lower hole. Shooting for around -2.25* in the front. Next event is 4/3, so I've got to be ready!
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Awesome pictures and love the video. I'm jealous as autocross hasn't started here yet. :(
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I can't wait for auto cross to start up here! I gonna be at every one!
 

Paul.c

New member
nice set up. I have been eyeballing the feal inserts with the remote resevoir. How do you like the ebc yellow for street usage?
 

SubieEngineer

New member
Awesome pictures and love the video. I'm jealous as autocross hasn't started here yet. :(

It'll start soon enough. It helps being further down south. :)

I can't wait for auto cross to start up here! I gonna be at every one!

Do it. I'm shooting for every event this year, but should realistically be at 70%+ of them.

How do you like the General Exclaim UHP's for street use?

They're not a terrible tire. Quiet ride, very soft sidewalls. Grip leaves something to be desired, even compared to RE070s in 225/45/17.

Very nice track action! With spring here, damn I can taste the track!

Next month I'll actually be at Little Talladega Gran Prix. First time on a track, and I can't wait! :D

nice set up. I have been eyeballing the feal inserts with the remote resevoir. How do you like the ebc yellow for street usage?

Thanks! The Yellowstuff seem to be decent for street use. Decent cold bite, and they stop better with a bit of heat in them (after a few stops). A slight squeal when warm, too (nothing annoying, and not like a shriek). I haven't tried them on a track, yet, but will next month.

I liked the Feal revalved inserts. I recently had to troubleshoot multiple suspension noises from my front end, and the last thing I did was remove the insert. When I did, I realized that my driver's side front had leaked the fluid into the housing. And just my luck, the passenger side nut on the bottom of the strut housing was spinning independently of the threaded portion of the insert. :| So, I had to drill/chisel that one off to get the RCE bumpstop off. Then, I put the RCE bumpstops on my 07 OEM inserts (I was using 05 STI revalved inserts and housings), regreased my 07 housings, and have stock-valved fronts and Feal-valved rears. I did immediately notice that the Feal valving was more aggressive, and I personally prefer the less-aggressive OEM valving. I need to stick this in my IW journal... I keep forgetting! :lol:
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
I ordered 2 pairs of Eibach camber bolts off Amazon.com and have received both pairs. I'll be using one pair up front for more negative camber and keeping the other pair for backups.

2nd local AX is done. Picked up another W in STM.
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I was also 9th in raw times out of 75 drivers.

Results: Final Results, #2 - ETRSCCA - Regional #2 - Pellissippi State - Sun 04-03-2011

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjr4C38Pj7E&feature=player_embedded

This was the first time in the dry with my new suspension setup, and the car felt freakin' fantastic!
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I had solid, easily-controllable and repeatable rotation. I kept the tire pressures 37 hot in the front and 35 hot in the rear (or rather, warm, as I didn't need to spray them). I'm really looking forward to the next event late next month and a few people are trying to convince me to go to Atlanta for the National Tour May 7-8. Without a STU-legal tune, I won't go, and it's more $$$$ to burn. But it's also the closest National Tour this year (IIRC).

I also picked up some magnets from a local guy that does vinyl cutting/magnets on the side. I waited until I was in the lead to put them on.
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SubieEngineer

New member
4/12/11 update:

Mild update... So Saturday, April 2 a local guy put on a benefit car show for the American Cancer Society. I rolled over with a local car shop whom I trust, and they brought out a customer's F430 Scuderia and their E30 Lemons car as well as their project Dakar Yellow E36 M3.

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1badbugeye's 03 WRX beside a mutual friend's GT500:
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I entered the Import category, I believe. Since the F430 was an import, guess what won...
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And here's a few more pics by someone with a DSLR and editing skills.
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scud1 by Connor Hinkle, on Flickr


m333333 by Connor Hinkle, on Flickr


m5 by Connor Hinkle, on Flickr
 

SubieEngineer

New member
Also from 4/12/11:

This past Saturday, April 9, there was another benefit show for the One World, One Heart Foundation. About 60 cars showed up.

Sorry for the atrocious Incredible pics, it was the only camera I could find...

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I didn't win anything at this event, either. But I did get to hang out with friends and benefit a good cause, so it's all good.
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SubieEngineer

New member
And I saved the best update for last...! :D

Did my first track day on Sunday!
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Yes, the one that was supposed to be about 1.5 months ago and was rescheduled due to bad weather (thunderstorms/downpours at the track). Little Talladega was the track, www.tgprace.com for more info.

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I drove down with 2 friends of mine, an older MR2 and a 350Z. Yes, he trailored the MR2, which turned out to be a good thing as his coolant system gremlens returned and caused it to overheat and eventually release pressure/coolant via some valve.

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Unfortunately, the day started off bad... Jacked up the car, took 2 wheels off, and started unrolling my 255/40/17 Star Specs out the back seat and noticed a nail in one of them. Damn.
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That left me with my only option: Run on my 225/45/17 General Exclaim UHPs. No, they didn't survive, but they got my the 250 miles back home.
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On-course photos (first session):

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I ran another 4 sessions, and my final session I experience fuel stave in the first straight. Knowing what it was, I let off, shifted to 5th, and basically used the remaining 3/4 lap as a cool-down. Good timing, as when I got back to the pit, the starter was waving the checkered flag for the cool-down lap.

After the 5th session, I notice my front-right tire was a bit low on tread...

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Both fronts:
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Monday I was able to get the one Star Spec patched, and I'm now on those until I decide to pick up some tires for the street. I'm thinking Continental DWS in 245/40/17, probably on some 17x9 Rotas Grids or Torque R's.

When I swapped wheels, I also took the time to take a feel of my brakes...
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Both front rotors are grooved to hell, and I'm 95% sure they can't be saved. And the driver's side has what I believe is the faint beginnnings of cracks. Looks like darker "spiderwebs" over lighter-colored parts of the rotor, but isn't actually a crack. My rears may be able to be turned, but I'll probably replace those for good measure. The pads got so hot that the yellow paint on them is cracking/peeling.
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LTGP is a bit rough on brakes, but I never experienced fade and slowing from ~105 to 60 didn't noticeably phase them. I'm sure they'd be reusable with a slight scuffing, unless they have deep gouges on them like the rotors.

I have video, too, that I'm still working on getting uploaded.
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And yes, I will be doing this again in the future. It was just too much damn fun!
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FYI, the fastest unofficial lap time my friend in the MR2 recorded was a 1:13.1, which isn't too bad on crap street tires. My friend in the Z managed a 1:12 on Star Specs. I REALLY wish I could've had mine on that day...
 

SubieEngineer

New member
A bit late, but videos from the track day:

First Session: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAdXfwy_AdM&feature=player_embedded

Fifth Session (350Z spin out, Elise spins off-camera): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smH9G-4uDZ0&feature=player_embedded

My friend in the 350's video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZg0MADe48M&feature=player_embedded

I also installed my rear diff bushings on 4/23 and update my Cobb map to the latest version with LC and FFS:

I also installed my rear differential mount bushings yesterday... Freakin' PITA to get the old bushings out. Had to enlist the help of a friend that'd done 2 sets already. He had them out in 5 min after I struggled for 1/2 an hour.
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I'd also note that when you double-nut the studs, it takes A LOT of effort to get the studs started coming out. My hands hurt pretty good today. And I tried the method of placing a socket on the ground and jumping on it. 4th jump and I bent the damn rear diff mount.
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Had to force it in as best I could, but I don't think I'll have any issues from it. First impression is that power delivery seems quicker at WOT... Could just be a fluke. I'll be installing the rear subframe outrigger bushings after the next AX.

Speaking of upgrades, I flashed Cobb's latest map with LC and FFS... I initially set FFS to 7k (I don't like to use it) and LC to 5k, and tried out a launch yesterday. Slight clutch odor, whoops. Set it to 4.7k, built 10 PSI and took off, less clutch odor. I'm going to set it to 4.4k and try it out. The previous map I was using (Stage 2 93 1.04) I was building 5-7 PSI before launching, 10 PSI is a whole new world for me!
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SubieEngineer

New member
On May 4, we had some nasty thunderstorms roll through my area. I got hit with golfball hail, which left me with some new bodywork on my STI:

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I've filed a claim with my insurance company, but I'm still waiting to get an estimate (they have their own estimators). No big deal, as my damage is relatively minor, no broken glass, the car drives fine, and about 2 miles south of me some friends of mine got tennis balls falling from the sky... :( (Not to mention Northern AL.)

I also jumped on TiC's group deal on NASIOC for the Kartboy STS with their Holy Shift Set. Selling the HSS to a friend with a 05 STI at a discount and I'm getting a cheap KB STS.

And annoyingly enough, something has come loose inside my muffler. I had a metallic rattle from the rear that I initially thought had something to do with the rear diff bushings. A friend and I checked out the rear end this past Friday... . We ran the car and felt all around the muffler for anything it might be hitting, no dice. Took it off and started the car, no rattling. Tapped on the muffler with a rubber mallet and couldn't find the spot where it is rattling. Put it back on the car, and it was still rattling. Crap.

I called Cobb later, and they said they could offer a discounted muffler (at least the muffler, as I didn't clarify whether or not the whole catback would be included) for $300 if I could provide an invoice for the purchase. Since I bought the CB used, I'm sure I'm SOL. My luck sucks...
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We also discovered that the craptacular welding the muffler shop did for the replacing the 2.5" flange on the Cobb DP with a 3" flange has failed, and there's now 2 holes in the flange. I'll be taking it off and taking it to a friend of mine to make sure it's done right. This same friend said he may be able to fix the muffler, depending on where the loose stuff is. I'm doubtful on that, but if he can, cool. Else, I'll be going back to the Surewin clone and painting it black to resist corrosion.

Since I'll have the DP off, I'm considering replacing the uppipe if I find a cheap/used one (probably Grimmspeed). I'm still researching them, so nothing definite.
 

SubieEngineer

New member
I had my friend that is going to fix my downpipe listen to the muffler. He thinks the rattle is from the end of the muffler where the piping enter it, so he suggested that we cut it open right there and see if we can see what's loose. If all else fails, I'll just go back to the Ebay catback I was running before. I priced one yesterday, it was about $120.
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I'm still not sold on swapping the uppipe, but I did find a cheap new Grimmspeed on NASIOC Friday night that's tempting me. Already coated, too.

I also went to a local shop's bi-monly Cars & Coffee yesterday morning. Had a better mix of cars than usual. Here's a friend's pics from the day: Coffee and Cars 5-7-11 pictures by 01badls3z28 - Photobucket

And two of me that he took:

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Can't really see the hail dents, either, thankfully.
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I haven't heard yet when my insurance will be able to get an estimator out to me, but I found out earlier that they have a center set up at the local Lowe's. I'll probably stop by there one day this week if I don't hear from them soon. Supposedly the body shop I plan to use is booked up until at least July...
 
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