ARPs
- Thread starter John
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GuyWithCameraPGH
New member
You never use lube on the threads for the block, the lube is strictly to keep from getting false torque readings from friction in the threads when torquing the nuts. If you use lube on the block side they will not seat completely. Those block holes need to be completely clean and dry, free from oil and any other liquids. Use an allen and hand tighten into the block that is correct.
On a side note, standard ARPs are junk, they will stretch easier than most manufacturers non-torque to yield bolts. The advantage is a larger surface area for more even clamping force. If your car is going to make any kind of "real" power you should look into the L19 style head studs if they make them for your application.
On a side note, standard ARPs are junk, they will stretch easier than most manufacturers non-torque to yield bolts. The advantage is a larger surface area for more even clamping force. If your car is going to make any kind of "real" power you should look into the L19 style head studs if they make them for your application.
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Thank You for catching that...I was in the garage all day had someone doing some internet work for me and they apparently didnt get what I told them to type. I hope no one used that information, i am truely sorry about that and will strictly handle all forum talk and tech advice myself from now on. Thank you to the camera guy above!
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
I can actually confirm this :tup: Happened to me once on my car... Happened to my friends S14 a multitude of times. They do make L19 for our cars and that is what I would recommend for anyone's serious build. If you are keeping your power levels under 450whp I would just use a new set of stock bolts. You'd be surprised how well they work.
So is what you say true only for studs? For instance the service manual says to oil the threads and the head of the bolt prior to installation and I would imagine that is to overcome binding of the thread as well as the bolt head when torquing. Adversely when you use studs you don't want to oil the thread on the engine side because that should remain stationary while torquing the nut just as you suggest.
you are correct, with a head bolt you need the entire thing to seat and not bind so torque lube is used so that you can accurately reach propper torque settings. With studs binding isn't an issue because you are not torquing the stud just the nut. however you want to make sure you use the lube on the threads to torque the nuts to their proper specifications. However I do know that some old school builders still insist on using mild loc-tite on the block side threads of the studs.
GuyWithCameraPGH
New member
I also go 10lb increments when I do them. If you get a false reading back them off sliughtly. Final torquing I always back each one off before making that torque. Also l19s do not require a retorque like arps standards.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
This is all good info... Thanks guys!
I to use 10lbs increments :tup:
I to use 10lbs increments :tup:
GuyWithCameraPGH
New member
The only reason they list 30-60-90 type increments is so the average person who doesn't know won't get false torque readings because of the gap between torquings. However this can cause the gasket underneath to become wavy and cause inconsistent sealing.
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