Before and After...

ICY STi

New member
file://localhost/Users/charley/Desktop/DataLogs/datalog2.csv

^This is the log before I installed my new exhaust...Still learning on how to understand the results.
Just wondering if someone who knows that they are looking at can check this out and see if there is something that I am missing.

I have a log coming from after the install of the new exhaust as well that will be posted in the next day or so.

Thanks in advance.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
upload to google docs.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
The easiest thing for you to do is to go to http://www.google.com/google-d-s/documents/ and click on "Get Started" and then "Sign Up"

Or if you have a gmail account you are already signed up and should be able to just sign in to docs.google.com.
 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Yes and no... It says I need access. You can change your settings and make the content public. You will need to do that if we are to view it... Your almost there! :lol:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
To do that go to docs.google.com and sign in if you are not already.

On the left you will see "My Drive", "Shared with me", "Stared", "Recent" and "More"

Click on "More" and then click on "Owner, Type, More>>"

In the dialog the comes up under the "Visibility" Heading you will select "Public on the web"

Now click on the "Upload" button on the left and upload the file to that folder. Click on it when it is uploaded and send that link to us.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Thank you...

So this is with an Off The Shelf Stage 2 map right?

It looks like things could be adjusted a little better but what can you expect from an OTS map :D Learned fuel trims are largely negative which would suggest it is taking fuel away to compensate for over rich condition. But you need to log A/F Correction also if we are to see what is really going on because the total fuel being compensated for is the sum of the two. There are some areas of knock that are concerning but not alarming. There is a little bit under heavy throttle at times. It would be interesting to see the "After Down Pipe" log to see if this alone corrects fuel trims. If not then you should take advantage of our free e-tuning service! :tup:

When you log for the down pipe, log only the following parameters...

A/F Correction #1
A/F Learning #1
A/F Sensor Ratio
Calculated Load
RPM
MAF Voltage
Feedback Knock Correction
Fine Learned Knock Correction
Boost
Throttle Position

Nothing else please because we need the resolution. Also reset the ECU prior to logging, but when you do, allow it to just sit and idle for 3-5 minutes before you take it out and log. This will allow your idle trims to stabilize. Give it about ten minutes of driving time before you start logging.

Good luck man!
George
 

ICY STi

New member
Ok. Thanks for the help George. I truly appreciate it.

Ill be going to the range tomorrow to play with my rifle a little bit. So ill do the log then.

This is the ACN 91 oct map that comes on the AP. Alaska doesn't have 91 or 93. It's the closest thing I could do for her. She was running really rough when running on 91 with 93 learned data.
 

ICY STi

New member
The DP and exhaust is all the mods that I have...Im using the ACN 91 map for reasons stated above. Do i flash the ACN 91 stage 1 or go to the stage 2 ACN 91 now with the DP and exhaust?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Fuel trims seem reasonable now... I still would suggest a minor retune though... Idle trims are not so great but that you can let go... Timing needs to be adjusted at WOT a little bit... Other than that this looks good.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
We do offer E-tuning services which will give you MUCH better results than an OTS map but do I agree that a pro-tune on a real dyno will net the best results.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I am of the opinion No... an e tune is every bit a real tune if it is done right. The thing is that an e tune may not net you the same reults as a dyno because virtual dyno is not very consistant IMO and the numbers can be manipulated to easy. Essentially if you are looking for numbers then go with a pro tune. If your looking for drivability then an etune would suit you just fine. Now this is not to say that an etune wont give you great power but with a pro tune you know what you got.

When I e tune I use the logs you send me and virtual dyno... I dont do anything differently then if the car was right there in front of me so it makes no difference to me either way. As long as you have an acurate wide band afr gauge that you can log... It can be tuned
 
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