05 STI BUILD
- Thread starter Doppelganger
- Start date
It's official I have ordered my intake manifold and got a killer deal on it. I guess procrastination and over research paid off.
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I'm suppose to get it by the 7th but I need get some grinding discs to start shaving the excess mounting points and EGR valve passage. I also will be purchasing a set of carbide debur buts to clean up the interior of the plenum and runners while port matching it to the phenolic spacers. (I believe KS tech pretty much match rite up so thats probably not necessary.) I'll be installing the IAT sensor in the hole left from the EGR on the bottom of the plenum. I'm also considering installing a single vacuum block on the intake so I can have a nice clean vacuum line install.
Now I have to figure out if I'm high temp painting it, polishing it, or going with some type of powder coat or ceramic coating.
Do you guys think ceramic coating would keep the temp of the intake cooler or will it prevent the heat escaping from the intake? I've always wondered if it would be beneficial or hinder it.
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
I think it would benefit and it will look damn cool also. The surrounding air in the engine bay is typically hotter than the charge temperature provided your intercooler is doing its job so you want to prevent heat from transferring inward.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
For comparison's sake:
2.5i N/A Intake Manifold Long Runner
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2808920
2.5i N/A Intake Manifold Long Runner
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2808920
Ok question for you guys about the stock oil cooler/warmer I live in an area that gets about a month or two of snow tops and was wondering what you guys think of just removing the stock oil warmer?
I know some of the subarus don't even come stock with them and am thinking with a few extra minutes of warm up the oil should hit a safe temp during the winter months so I can eliminate it completely.
The main reason I'm considering deleting it is because I'm still running stock radiator and have a larger turbo that I'm sure will be taxing the cooling system even more.
Or should I just use brake clean and clean the crap out of it then reinstall just to keep it on the car?
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I know some of the subarus don't even come stock with them and am thinking with a few extra minutes of warm up the oil should hit a safe temp during the winter months so I can eliminate it completely.
The main reason I'm considering deleting it is because I'm still running stock radiator and have a larger turbo that I'm sure will be taxing the cooling system even more.
Or should I just use brake clean and clean the crap out of it then reinstall just to keep it on the car?
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Besides warming the oil it is also meant to keep the oil at the ideal operating temperature. If you eliminate it then you should install a proper oil cooler. The oil system definitely needs cooling of some kind
I'll do a write up I'll be using moore performance fuel rail spacers and KStech 19mm phenolic spacers so the fuel rails clear the avcs.
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SudoSTI
Member
Some thermal protective coating would be a good thing IMHO. I have the spacers you're running already and my intake manifold is cool to the touch after driving. The spacers will eliminate the main source of heat seen by the intake manifold, the thermal coating should take care of a good chunk of the rest.
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Cool I'm glad to know the phenolic spacers help that much and yes I'm keeping the oil warmer slash cooler which is more of a oil temp regulator lol
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The runners to head mating surface.
The EGR valve path I need to remove.
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This is probably the best surprise of the manifold. Look at how the plenum is nicely divided going to the runners. You can tell subaru put some R&D in to this manifold and is most likely why it out performs the cosworth log style manifold. That's also the EGR tube I will be removing in the middle of the intake.
Surprisingly I think this huge manifold is lighter then the stock sti with tgv housing and there's minimal porting of the actual runners and plenum other then the EGR tube.
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Surprisingly I think this huge manifold is lighter then the stock sti with tgv housing and there's minimal porting of the actual runners and plenum other then the EGR tube.
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Thank you for that pic. I was always wondering what the inside looked like. I assume you will also be polishing some of those burrs out as well?
Your more then welcome and yes I've never seen a picture of inside the plenum hence why I posted it.
Yes ill be cleaning up the runners and the plenum when I purchase my carbide debur bits and polishing flap wheels next pay day. I already purchased a Makita GD0601 for the Rotary Tool I'll be using.
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By the way [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] I have a few questions regarding what route I should take with my tuning set up.
I already have a tactrix open port 2.0 cable and plan on getting a wiring harness from Flexconverors.com and using a GM Fast Response IAT Sensor that I will be installing in the intake manifold.
Do you recommend a full map or a hybrid MAF and MAP tune for my set up?
The other question is you will be able to tune it with the open source tune if I go this route correct?
This is what I'm looking at now which is the full map harness and iat sensor.
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I already have a tactrix open port 2.0 cable and plan on getting a wiring harness from Flexconverors.com and using a GM Fast Response IAT Sensor that I will be installing in the intake manifold.
Do you recommend a full map or a hybrid MAF and MAP tune for my set up?
The other question is you will be able to tune it with the open source tune if I go this route correct?
This is what I'm looking at now which is the full map harness and iat sensor.
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SudoSTI
Member
Might be willing to sell you my converter harness for cheap. I'm probably going to get the FlexFuel setup from them and I'd like to get the harness that plugs into the MAF plug on one side, and has separate pigtails one for the IAT sensor, the other using the MAF signal wires as the input from the ethanol sensor so the ECU can read the content and adjust accordingly.
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