Car still not running right

[icudruln]

Do you guys think this could be the culprit? Cylinder One Spark Plug (passenger side front):

Spark Plug untouched:

Side Shot of Spark Plug Untouched:

I found this picture to be the most telling and interesting. I wiped off the spark plug, as seen on the palm of my glove, and it appeared to be a slight bit of oil on the threads...maybe one or two drops. FWIW, the car burns maybe a half quart of oil in the 3,100 miles since I've last changed to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Also, notice how the tip of the plug is slightly brown. I didn't check the gap, because they're the NGK Iridium One Step Colder Plugs (LFR7AIX part number). I didn't spray the spark plug with brake clean, as I wasn't sure if that'd cause damage if it dripped onto the electrode...I just wiped it off with my glove.

 

[icudruln]

As noted two posts up, the bolt that holds the coil pack to the head had a slight amount of corrosion on it. I cleaned it with a wire brush, and sprayed the bolt with brake clean, and re-installed the same plug and coil pack back to Cylinder 1. FWIW, there was no visible damage to the coil pack, wiring, or coil pack boot.

The bolt had about the same amount of corrosion as does the bolt in the following picture. No rust or anything...it looked new after I cleaned it off.

About the same amount of corrosion as this bolt found on google (no rust on mine):

 

[STi FR3AK]

From the pics, it doesn't look like theres THAT much oil on the plug. Not enough to fuck with your car anyway. I mean, it looks like it's only on the threads but who knows.

I hate corrosion. I had a corroded knock sensor and it would give off random "fake" knock preventing my car from getting a good tune but nobody could figure it out. I called a local friend of a friend who was mechanically inclined and he told me. Swapped em out and whala, good to go.

 

[icudruln]

From the pics, it doesn't look like theres THAT much oil on the plug. Not enough to fuck with your car anyway. I mean, it looks like it's only on the threads but who knows.

I hate corrosion. I had a corroded knock sensor and it would give off random "fake" knock preventing my car from getting a good tune but nobody could figure it out. I called a local friend of a friend who was mechanically inclined and he told me. Swapped em out and whala, good to go.

Yeah, that's what it looked like to me too. When it comes to electrical issues, its always best to check your grounds for corrosion and resistance... it's the best way to trace and find electrical issues without replacing all kinds of stuff.

FWIW, when I cleaned up the bolt and the spark plug, the car runs like normal, with the exception being when i come to a stoplight or stop sign, where the RPM's still drop below 750. I had my buddy at work, who was a tech at Honda for a while spray around with brake clean, and he didn't have any luck either. Hopefully the vacuum leak tester shows what's wrong. I'm thinking either the bottom side of the turbo inlet, or the throttle body area.

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

In fact the color of the plug indicates it is running lean. The insullator looks white to me.

 

[icudruln]

In fact the color of the plug indicates it is running lean. The insullator looks white to me.

Do you think if nothing is found with the boost leak test, I should take it to my tuner?

 

[cobbtunedsti]

Yes.. Don't drive your car out of wack for to long

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Yes definitely. Just check one more time that you are not running the gasoline map while running e85. I'm not convinced :lol:

Do you think if nothing is found with the boost leak test, I should take it to my tuner?

 

[cobbtunedsti]

Agree Holy... Reset the car plug the green connecters in and change maps to the e85 map..

 

[icudruln]

Will do. I'm only tuned on E85, and never did a gas tune, so I've never switched maps. I'm confused with my car.