Iowa needs your help!!! 04 STI needs a start.

Its Twicky

New member
Iowa build getting closer, Any last advice!!!!!!

2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
Hey guys, This is where I am at on my build, Thinking its just about time to start buying and getting my sti back on the road, I started this list a while ago, and thanks to a lot of feed back and research, this is where I am at now for my list, Still please let me know concerns or likes. Any information is helpful. I do plan on using the Dom 2.5xtr. I am also switching over to E-85.
Goals for car. Hoping around 415 WHP give or take. I would like the car to be quick, quick response, spool etc, just a quick little guy.
A) Parts I own and will use
1) GS600 Short block? Rec. 7500 + RPM Redline
------]--- Wiseco forged pistons
-----------Coated High performance Rod & Crankshaft Bearings
-----------STI Race Crankshaft (Nitrated, Magnafluxed, Lightened)
-----------Final Displacement 2.48L ? Compression 8.5:1
2) GSC-Stage 1- camshafts- (Duration) Intake 266/ Exhaust 264
--------- (Lift) Intake 10.4mm/ Exhaust 10.0 mm
3) GSC- Spring/Seal Kit with Retainers
4) --Five-o, Fuel Injectors Side Feed 1200
5)-Deatschwerks- 300lph fuel pump
6)-NGK- step colder spark plugs
7)-torque solution, Motor mounts
8) -Greddy, Ti-c Exhaust

9) - Invidia - Bell mouth DP
10)-Up-Pipe + 44mm EWG (Grimmspeed) With Coating
11)-Tial 44mm MVR wastegate
12)-Clutch ? Spec (stage 3)

13)-TGV Deletes (Grimmspeed)
14) Turbo-(Blouch)?DOM? 2.5xtr
15) Gates Racing- Timing belt
16) ARP head studs & Full gasket Kit
17) Perrin Big maf shortram (black)
18) Grimmspeed boost solinoid
19) New oil cooler

20) Anything not mentioned above or below, will be stock.

DSC00478.jpg DSC00479.jpgDSC00480.jpgDSC00472.jpg
B) Parts I plan on buying, may have a few questions about
1) ETS-TIMIC
2) Forged BPV (brand?)
3-A) Wrap?s - - Down Pipe,
3-B) Coating - - Headers, Up-Pipe, Cross Pipe, Hot side on Turbo.
4)Head work, Check, polish, 3 way valve job.
4) Fluids - - Amsoil, Redline.
----I am thinking this should be good to get the car back on the road, and be able to drive and feel happy about the build.
C) parts I may buy during the build or after when the $$ is right.
1) Pitch stop (torque solutions)
2) Tranny Mounts (torque solutions)
D) Tune
Not sure what I want to do for tune yet, I do own a accessport, No one around here has a all wheel drive Dyno, That is still up in the air. (right now thinking 5-star motorsports..

I will work on the rest of the car after its running. Pic's will be up after running etc.

I.C.E
Here is a picture of my car, untill my build is done and its cleaned up

trunk.jpg


1993 Toyota Tercel
Int/ext/wheels/etc...
Spec, seibon stickers.
Wheels, White rim with black center ( its pro a 5 dollar wheel, i painted)
4 speed tops out at 82mph downhill.
2 speakers in rear deck, (car had no speaker wholes) \
0-60 in 21 seconds.
Paid $150
188763 miles, gage stopped working about 4 months ago.
1982 K-5 Blazer
Int/ext/wheels/etc...
Cost $0 to own.
switched to fuel injection.
PLanning a huge build for this guy, all custom design.


Also good advice on setting this page up, to make easier to read and follow for you.

 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I will tell you what I know about some of that and my recommendations but pretty much every one has there own opinions or experience with different things and none of them are wrong for the most part. What I have to say is only the formula that has worked for me.

The first thing you should decide is what fuel do you plan on running. That will define allot of what you need to build for. It seems you have a pretty good handle on what you expect performance wise and it look like you want an all around performer.

Lets start with fuel. Some go meth, others go race fuel, others go 93 and yet others go E85. It is my opinion the E85 is the best choice out of them all but not necessarily for the performance aspect. If it is available in your area it makes for a very versatile solution. It is cheap and it does give you great performance benefits. Another plus is that it is a very safe fuel because it is highly resistant to knock. And when you don't feel like using e85 you just switch maps and fill up on petrol. Here's a nice right up we did regarding E85... http://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php?205-All-about-E85 There is a lot of good info there. If you do decide to go E85 then you will want to use the 1000CC injectors and a Walbro or Deatschwerks Fuel Pump

I think you are right about completing the block first. As far as the heads and cams go (and this is only my opinion) you should definately do some minor porting at the very least. Fuji would know more about what specifically you should do to them but the stock units could stand to use some improvements. As for cams, if you are looking for an all around performer I would concider staying with stock or maybe go with a mild performance cam no bigger than 264 duration. If you go 272 then you need to combine that with a large turbo and it would really only be good for drag racing at that point.

For your turbo choices I think they are good as well though you might also consider the Blouch 20GXT. It is a great all around performer because it offers stock like spool with the right supporting mods and tune, and it provides great power up to redline. Granted it does start to lose a little bit of breath up stairs but you have to compromise when you are looking for all around performance.

Another bit of advice is to either not use the HKS or find a flange for it that will allow you to connect it as a BPV. They are a great BOV but not when used as a BOV in our cars. Again here is a good write up as to why... http://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php?216-Guide-to-BPV-s-and-BOV-s

My favorite vendors are here on this sight and can help you out with pretty much anything you need and their prices are really great. They are Apex Performance (Mostly the engine stuff but they sell pretty much everything) and Defined Performance (mostly electronics and accessories but sells pretty much anything) and Cygnus (mostly for the suspension stuff but again, can help you out with pretty much anything)

As far as suspension and drive train goes I'm pretty much stupid and you need to hear from the others on that.
 
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Its Twicky

New member
Hey, thanks man. I wrote down everything you said. Ill do some research and keep everything in mind. Ill update my thread tomorrow. And the E85 I really am thinking its a win/win, if I need to i can always change the map like you said. Ill read that E85 thread tonight after Accounting HW.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I've been using E85 the good part of 4 years now. I still can't believe the difference the stuff makes and so cheap to boot

My car smiles when I use it!
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
I see you meant HOLY! :welcome: to the team! Enjoy the site and check out memberships for giveaways and more.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
I'm doing all suspension on my ride this summer. My car only has 9500 miles on it running stage 2, so suspension is first for me then motor. I wish I could help, but we need Holy and Jared and some of the other guys in here to help us.
 

Its Twicky

New member
Ha, i got all excited when i saw a post, you were a let down ha. yeah i wish i could do some suspension work. But things just happen. What yr is your car?
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
2004 ftw.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I have some more thoughts...

Intercooler: Spearco is great. You can't go wrong with that. I have also heard good things about the process west unit but I have no real world experience with that one. Everyone I know that has the spearco is very happy.

Spark Plugs, one step colder: should be 100%

Fuel pump: I say Deatschwerks.. You will never be wanting for fuel with that one and is fully E85 compliant and is also a good price @ $169 bucks.

Injectors: Save yourself some headaches, time, and cash and go with the Five0 injectors. They are great and you don't have to convert to top feed. If you do go with E85 or just want a nice consistent flowing delivery system I would also recommend a parallel fuel system.

CAI: My favorite is KSTech and if you are going with a Dom2 or 3071 or something bigger like that I would go for the 83mm big MAF housing. This will prevent you from maxing out your MAF

Heat wrap: good idea IMHO keeps the heat in the header and helps to transfer some of that energy to better spin the turbo.

Boost solenoid: Highly recommended.

Oils: During break in on any motor it is recommended you use conventional oil. Many engine builders recommend Shell Rotella "T". Later after about 3000 mile you can switch to a full synthetic if you like. Do not use the synthetic blends.

Also there are two types of synthetic motor oils that are on the market and one is better than the other but only in really extreme conditions. The first is a group IV PAO based oil and is the lesser of the two but the advantage is it's price and as long as you change your oil frequently there is no difference between that and the other in the real world. PAO based oils are still derived form a petroleum base. The other type is group V ester or diester based oil that is derived from alcohol. It is a considerably more resilient base and is far more resistant to shock. It also has a higher resistance to heat. All of its properties make it a far more superior product for extreme engine use such as HPDE or flat out race cars. Ester based oils are the only types certified for use in modern jet engines.

The best PAO oils are Amsoil, Mobile1, Shell Rotella T6 and Castrol Edge.

The only Ester based oil I know of is Red-Line and Motul. These are very expensive though. I use Red-Line myself.
 

Its Twicky

New member
Thank you "Holy" I will do some research on the parts you metioned, Any thoughts on using "heat wrap area" (swaintech) white lighting, Also i will start looking into those fiveo injectors, i have not read into those yet.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Yeah Fuji does a lot of posts with his phone.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
I would say your on the right track!
 
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