How do you go about doing that? Connect a gauge to a fuel line and run the pump in diagnostic mode?
I JUST got a wideband but don't have a bung in the downpipe to put it in yet. I really need to get that done.
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How do you go about doing that? Connect a gauge to a fuel line and run the pump in diagnostic mode?
I JUST got a wideband but don't have a bung in the downpipe to put it in yet. I really need to get that done.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Change plugs regardless. It was a bitch and a half for me cause i have hands that are on the bigger side and barely managed to squeeze in there.
Call around local shops for the bung. It cost me $20 for a my bung. A local muffler place by me. Dont pay more than $30. Also talk to [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION]. Im sure he has the hook up. :lol:
Call around local shops for the bung. It cost me $20 for a my bung. A local muffler place by me. Dont pay more than $30. Also talk to [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION]. Im sure he has the hook up. :lol:
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No i did not get any CEL codes that was what threw me off for a bit. i just thought i had a major boost leak.but i could not find one so i just decided to check my plugs and sure enough one of them was cracked **do a boost leak test as well could be your clamps can not hold the load happened to me when i ran a FMIC car ran fine with no leaks under 10psi but after that the t-bolt clamp gave way and it was leaking like crazy.**
and yea it is a PITA took me about a 30-40 to do mine.
Can you log it? Also, check all your sensor connections and grounds. Other than that, you should have some type of code stored. Maybe a memory code.
Also, I highly recommend to pull the plugs and check them. This will tell you if its lean, rich and if there was any detonation. Upload or text me some pics of them.
Also, I highly recommend to pull the plugs and check them. This will tell you if its lean, rich and if there was any detonation. Upload or text me some pics of them.
Yes you will need to connect a gauge (need to fine a Tee with a gauge on it) to the top fuel line. if im not mistaken that is the feed line. remember to relieve the system of any pressure do this by removing your back seats remove the cover for the fuel pump start your car and disconnect the white electrical plug on top of the fuel pump. can take a pic if you need help. then you can open you gas cap if you would like. then cut the fuel line and install the Tee start your car. you can use this http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_diagnose.htm and this http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/41235-whats-our-fuel-pressure.html for some extra help
And as far as the wide band i would get on it had a shop weld mine on for $50 not to bad
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Damn $50?! It literally took the guy 5 minutes to do mine. Thats some bs :lol:
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Lmao well if i had the skill to weld things i would have done it my self
Yeah we would all hahahaha.
[MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] call up some shops for the bung. Order new plugs. Try and acquire the info Joe needs to see whats going on. :tup:
My Cobb AP is going out in the mail to Cobb to get fixed/replaced, so for the time being I have no way to log.
I will buy some plugs after work today. Even if mine are okay, it's probably good to have an extra set on hand anyway.
[MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION], I know you just dealt with plug gapping. What did George say the gap should be? (~20psi target w/ methanol)
I have a Walbro 255 with ~30k miles on it. I hope it's not shot already. I'll pressure test it if the plugs are okay and the MAF is clean. I did have a dirty MAF cause a similar issue about 10k miles ago.
[MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION], can you recommend a shop nearby me that isn't shady to install the bung?
I will buy some plugs after work today. Even if mine are okay, it's probably good to have an extra set on hand anyway.
[MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION], I know you just dealt with plug gapping. What did George say the gap should be? (~20psi target w/ methanol)
I have a Walbro 255 with ~30k miles on it. I hope it's not shot already. I'll pressure test it if the plugs are okay and the MAF is clean. I did have a dirty MAF cause a similar issue about 10k miles ago.
[MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION], can you recommend a shop nearby me that isn't shady to install the bung?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I gapped them to 0.032. George recommended 0.028-0.032
The old ones were all at 0.048 after about 20-25k miles.
I also unplugged all the harness connectors under the hood. They get corroded and sometimes makes the contact fluke out. This was the cause for my misfire since there was a misfire apparent after the new plugs were put in. Now car is running perfectly fine.
So you might as well unconnect the harness connectors and replug them back in. :tup:
The old ones were all at 0.048 after about 20-25k miles.
I also unplugged all the harness connectors under the hood. They get corroded and sometimes makes the contact fluke out. This was the cause for my misfire since there was a misfire apparent after the new plugs were put in. Now car is running perfectly fine.
So you might as well unconnect the harness connectors and replug them back in. :tup:
Okay. Seems I have a few things on my plate to investigate.
I've got 4 new NGK Iridium plugs on order at Advance. They should be in by 4-5 o'clock. I'm going to swing by and pick them up on the way home.
I realllllllly hope this is the problem.
I realllllllly hope this is the problem.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Its a good chance it is. You might have the connector issue too. If it is, easy and cheap fix.
Keep us updated! :tup:
Will do. This is going to suck.
15 minutes?! How?! I thought it's ridiculously hard to get your hand in there. It's been a while since I replaced them and I think it took 30-40 minutes with 2 people.
Had to remove the intake, battery and washer fluid reservoir.
Had to remove the intake, battery and washer fluid reservoir.
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